Daphur280

I tested the alternator twice, before and after installation. Both times it passed. All connections are good and 12v and ground are present where it is needed. So I dont suspect the alternator is defective. And I was never able to confirm what that relay is amongst any wiring diagrams or connector diagrams, since the wiring colors do not match up. either way i took Zmanco's advice and unplugged the relay, it charges just fine now.

Im sorry if I'm still not making sense here is how the "additional" or "new" Fuel pump relay is wired in: 12v constant > + battery Neg > Ground 12v Switched > Toggle switch 12v to Source> directly to fuel pump If that relay that clicks on inside the passenger side IS the original fuel pump relay, then it is not connected to the fuel pump that is installed as of now whatsoever. So if by disconnecting the original Fuel Pump relay, this should no longer affect the charging system?

it is still coming up with "500 Internal Server Error" Is this a problem with my computer, server, etc. or is it a HybridZ issue?

I did the same thing, I wired in a relay to the pump, powered by the battery and it switched from a toggle switch. I meant to say "independant of the EFI harness" because I was still having issues wiring in the fuel pump relay harness with the EFI harness, so I wired it in with it's own relay and switch. Hope that defines some of the logic and dismisses the confusion.

I have a turbo ZX fuel pump with a relay wired independently of the harness, so this is not the source of the problem with my car.

Anyone have an answer to this??

This is my 3rd brand new alternator, I had it tested right out of the box to reassure that it will charge, so I'm confident that it works properly. The MSA diode plugin is just another way to wire in jumper wires and the diode without having to cut or splice wires in (Originally I did the splice and wire jump, and added the diode myself according to to this: Z Car Creations , however it didn't hold a charge then either, so I decided to eliminate my electrical mess and go with MSA's simple plugin). As far as the L and S connectors, they both have power as the car is running... So still stumpped. I spoke to another individual and he mentioned something about the "Charge" light indicator needed to be addressed in the swap, because that was what the relay went to. Another individual mentioned somehting about the factory Ammeter presents an issue if not bypassed during a swap.

So I swapped a 83 L28et into my 73 240z, I went with the MSA voltage regulator diode plugin, and when I connect the battery a relay under the dash clicks on once. I didn't think much of this as an issue until I discovered my alternator wasn't charging the battery. I cant seem to locate this relay in my wiring diagrams and cannot figure out if something is connected incorrectly aside from the alternator. here is the relay that "turns on" when battery is connected another view: This is the connector that plugs into it: when I disconnect this plug and connect the battery, obviously it wont "click" however I'm sure the alternator will continue to not charge. When I remove the MSA voltage regulator Diode Connector and connect the battery, the relay doesn't engage (or click) Any help or ideas??

Anyone else having issues loading images to their garage? I continue to get a "505 internal server error" Is that suppose to be reference to MY server or HybridZ's server?

damn, looks like i got extra stuff to sell then...

would a stock front and rear sway bar from a 83 280zx into a 240z be considered an upgrade (or even work?)

I am the same way with my palm treo 800w, now I have to relearn the qwerty keyboard again...

what is the benefit of using MR2 struts? and is that gen1 or gen2? do you have a pic of these installed and of the car on the ground? Are those Ground Controls?

whats your qik site?

I will take on this challenge

Copied from Wikipedia.org . . . [edit] Japanese market On the home market, the Z31 came with either a 2.0 litre or 3.0 litre motor. The 200Z, 200ZG, and 200ZS used the VG20ET motor while the 200ZR had the RB20DET. The only factory Z31 variant to use the VG30DE engine was the 300ZR.[9] The Japanese 300ZX Turbo made the same 200 hp (149 kW) as the USDM VG30ET, outperforming the 3.0 liter Z31s as their engines only made 210-219 hp. This was to "make the most of the local taxation laws."[4]

Isn't the the sleeve suppose to be "properly secured" to the tube, and not just sitting on the perch?

I just upgraded from my crappy Palm Treo to the new HTC EVO, and if you haven't heard/seen about this phone yet, check it out, it's pretty badass... Anyway, it has an app called Qik, which allows the user to stream and upload videos to the Qik website or other sites such as Facebook, Youtube, Twitter. The quality isn't as superb as an HD cam, but for a phone, its very good. I think I'm gonna start uploading videos on my swap, and other Z related items to the qik site in the future, if someone hasn't yet already begun doing that. Its a nice feature to stream live videos, for such things like events, races, or whatever is going on right at the moment...

I went with Track Testing for one composition (I was trying a new genre) what they "did" was they would take a 30sec clip you submit, after a number of peer reviews of that submission, they allow you to upload the full piece. Then that would receive numerous reviews, and I believe after a certain number of positive reviews, they would release it to sell in a compilation, at no charge to you. You "should" receive a monthly statement of how it does in sales and receive monthly checks via PayPal... But I'm going to be going another route, due to the type of compositions I produce. I'd prefer to start writing scores for films and/or writing licensed works to be used for various thematic avenues ie: Trailers, Commercials, Games, Short Films, etc. Let me know how your success comes along. I'm interested in hearing about your progress.

not sure due to demographics, but you might be able to take a personal loan from a credit union when you turn 18, but from my understanding it would have to be a personal loan, NOT a car loan, most lenders will not issue a loan for cars more than 10-15 years old.

please no more

yeah nevermind I got it all sorted, it runs now I have to replace the rear main seal, thanks for the responses,

I need help, I've been working on my turbo swap now for almost a year, and its long overdue to get it to run. I dont want to sell it, so this is my absolute last option to that point. I need someone in the NW area, preferably in Vancouver/Portland area, to help me get it running. I've exhausted all of my troubleshooting skills to find the problem, and I'm running out of time. The only guy I new within 75 miles from me with datsun turbo experience was suppose to come by today but bailed on me, which has been a reoccurring issue. This wasn't suppose to be my daily driver, but due to several unfortunate circumstances, it now has to be, so I need it running. Rather than post the history of the swap and issues related with getting it started I'll just refer you to this thread which IMO explains the just of it: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/92098-bypassing-fuel-pump-relay/ I am willing to pay, however I don't have much so I can only pay if someone can get it running. I can be contacted @ 360-518-8374 or by email indephenit@gmail.com

And just in case you're not familiar with "MM" that would be Modern Motorsports ; not to be confused with McKinney Motorsports

yes! my psychic abilities are working!!