BillZ260

GOT IT! For the Inside bushings i cut out all the rubber and the sleves that they were bonded to had rusted to the control arm shaft so they looked like one pc. Took my grinder and put a groove in one of the sleeves, chisel and hammer...whalla! popped right off. Guess I was the one that needed the coffe.

If the inner ones are supposed to slide off then this step in the process is just like all the others in my rebuild. This car has been very neglected, all four sturts shot, one of the front ones was bent and locked up the front suspension. OK, so can i cut and chissel off the inner sleeves for the INNER Bushings as you do the Outes?

I have read through ALL of the threads on this issue and want to clarify a couple of things. On the INNER rubber bushings for the rear control arm you remove the old rubber bushing material, I used a utility knife. Then you cut a slot into the old metal inner sleeve, careful not to go all the way through it. Take a chisell and set it in the notch and tap it off of the control arm rod. Repeat this 4 times for the 2 longer and 2 shorter rubber bushings, and both control arms will be done. Once the sleeves are knocked off you can slide new 'gold' inner sleeves on and put your new bushings in. Remember to lube them and you are done! For the OUTER, Mikelly said do nothing, don't bother. Mine seem tight but I dunno what to do. I really don't feel like messing with that SPINDLE PIN if I don't have to. Like I said, the OUTER seem like they are fine and smooth. How important is it to replace the mustache bar bushings. I plan on upgrading my rear later on down the road, do I really need to replace them now? I know this has all be discussed before, but I just need some assurance that I have things right in my head before finishing up the rearend stuff. Have the day off but not at home, as I have no net connect at home, will chill at mom's, couple miles away, till I get some replies, thanks so much!!!!!!!!!!

I did mine on the jackstands and was also worried about sagging, so much so that I checked to see if my doors still open and closed ok every night will the floors were out of it. Had no problems.

Felt compelled to remind everyone how valuable this site is. I know it is worth WAY more than the small contribution I just PAY PAL'ed. Can someone make this an Anouncment and get others to join in the X-mas spirit and contribute.

Looking for info on using my GM t5 tranny, getting all the parts i need etc. When i do a search with t5, t 5, or t-5, nothing comes up in Chevy forum or the Drivetrain forum. Any thoughts, I am sure i am doing something wrong, what is it? I even tried the site search... HELP

I am thinking of adding one of those keyed line locks you can plumb into your hydralic brake lines. You press the brake turn the key and all four wheels are tied up. I am sure that it has its draw backs, such as ease of use, ect. But it will also make the car so that it is not driveable if broken in to. Anyone else using one of these or know someone who has?

One other thing, what exactly are you going to attach the CAT to on the Z? I can only imaging what 60K Lbs of thrust would do to the almost aluminum like unibody material. I think it would move about 3 ft after the cat ripped the thing in half...

my cell only has 2 outlets, one vent, one pickup to the fuel pump. I am using the Holley Red as you suggested so i guess I won't need a return line eh?

Man, i feel ill-equiped, just have the 20*24 attached to the house. Plenty bit when you have just the z, but for any other projects you have to empty it. I think the key is how you organize your storage. I am going to start designing and building all new shelves/bench/work area for the perimeter when I get the Z running.

Georgia, what size are they? If you get the itch to sell I guess we will see them posted here.

So you got the bolts off of the rear end Diff Yoke? If not you have to to get the rear of the drive shaft free. Once the 4 bolts are gone, lower the shaft down and you should be able to slide it out of the tranny. You don't want to drop the tranny w/out the motor, looooots of work and headache. Short of this you can get your sawzall out make two cuts into the driveshaft so that it is broken up into thirds. the front pc should slide right out! Not sure if you can reuse the shaft but it will be out. Good luck.

So with Hemi heads that C06 will "pull like a son of a gun" right? Done Deal!

You going to share that video MATT? I think that this needs a little bit more debate and I would like to have all the info I can

Yeah, that would be cool. Guess we could all use a bit of that lottery money that they give to people who don't know how to spend money.

You guys are too much

Umm YEAH, that is off the wall So what are you doing durring the day to come up with an idea like that?

Pete, your car is why I am going through this auto transition. I fell in love with it and I hope I can only do your car justice by, attempting, to replicat it.

Not sure what to say to that............looks like we have the same jack! Can't throw it away, although if I had the R230, I would probably have to, seems no one in these parts will pay for stuff you need to get rid off.

I like to see the Big 3 with cars like this but like Mikelly said, they are behind the curve. Dodge has had the Viper around for awhile but I don't think it has the respect that the European super cars have. Hopefully Ford's GT can put some whuppins on the Anglo's in what ever racing series it will (hopefully) compete in. Like it did in the 60's?

This is just before spinning the car around to start work on the rear suspension, (and making room for the wifes car before the snow starts in) Pic or the car spun around w/out suspension. This is basically just a pic to prove that I did the work myself, for myself This one is the rear suspension pulled out. After I pulled the control arm/strut assys off the Diff/axle assy I cleaned alot of the road crud off and jiggled the yolk while standing on the axle's. It was very tight, I couldn't feel any slop. Hopefully this will hold up untill funds for another rearend can be saved up. This is the Stk R180 from the 260 manual, 3.3 somthing gears I think. That's all for now, should be able to clean, paint, install new parts and start reassembling this weekend.

Does your set up have a servo motor that regulates the throttle at idle? If so check it.

Now that was funny! So is the graphic in my sig too big? I am really new to all of this so I can attempt to reduce the size of it or just kill it and replace with JSR, I suppose I could do that... Call me

back to the dash question... I was thinking, if you strip your dash down to its aluminium, i think, frame, you could mount your cap onto that with the expanded foam like someone else mentioned. That could work. Let me know what you do for your undercoating, just about ready to do that.

GO BLUE