BillZ260

I think that the wire feed WITH the gas set up really helps out ALOT! I know because when ever it was just the wire, i may have forgotten to turn on the gas a couple of times, it was very sparky and throwing junk allover and just not as clean as with the gas. It is the way to go!

Sparky is right, Pioneer CD changers can be set up in series, but there goes your luggage space! Plus they are heavy, finicky, gots to keep them clean and out of the way or they start having problems. Like the disks fall between the disk pallets, not cool. I would say get a deck that has the changer in IT and will play your MP3's. I think alpine has a 3 disk in deck changer. Others may as well.

Got both strut assemblies and torqed on this weekend. Everything looks great and went together fairly easy. (I put the new bushings on the driver side control arm on backwards at first, took me a while to realize it, but once corrected, everything went smooooth.) Got the bolts torqed and all should be well I also got the driver side floors and frame rail welded in and primered, will try to post fair pics tommorow. So now it is on to the rear suspension, any helpful hints before I start into the rear? Here are some pics of the sub frame connectors, will try to post some of the suspension soon.

welcome Zsane, good pics, I love looking at all the different race car paint shcemes. Personally my fave so far is the BRE red white and blue. 240hybrid -- that black and white photo is of the 1975 24 hrs @ Lemans team in a 240z. Story goes they had lots of rear end troubles that day. The car and one of the drivers both dnf'd. It kind spooked me for a while, but the next year the #73 car, 260, with the mostly same team did alright

Got both strut assemblies and torqed on this weekend. Everything looks great and went together fairly easy. (I put the new bushings on the driver side control arm on backwards at first, took me a while to realize it, but once corrected, everything went smooooth.) Got the bolts torqed and all should be well I also got the driver side floors and frame rail welded in and primered, will try to post fair pics tommorow. So now it is on to the rear suspension, any helpful hints before I start into the rear?

Hit the top nut with the impact on it's lowest setting and noticed the the nut had tightened up againt the isolator, so I put my strap wrench on that a got it very tight but not quite up to 90 lbs before the strap broke! I went ahead and put it on the car and will see what I can get it to when the car is back on the ground. I re-inspected the wallowed hole and it is only just bad enouht to let the strut piston spin. To be continued... On another note, got tommorrow off and I will, hopfully, finish the driver side floorpan and frame rails. Passenger side turned out pretty decent. Will post picks soon.

I am impressed! I never thought I would see a 2+2 look slick, I think they look out of proportion. It is amazing what those big meats do for that car, I like! Looks like a older XJ.

Your car looks slick! i love your round fuel cell, did you make that?

so that will work well and I use a regular return line. Will the stock lines be sufficient? Anything else I need to plan for? I would like to use a fuel cell like, 16 Gallon with the GM style sending unit already in it. I am pretty clueless to this stuff, this is my first time building a hot rod, I have had several and changed stuff up but never fromt the ground up so alot of these systems are new to me.

Does anyone have experience with this pump from MSA? They claim it supplies the correct amount of pressure for a carbed V8. I plan on running about 300-400 hp max. I did a search in the fuel delivery forum but found nothing on this pump.

So what member would I be then? Good to see so many others to relate with.

Well maybe this is the bump I need to go ahead and buy the camber plates... Will see how this all works out. No hurries. Got to finish my driver side floorpan and frame rail this weekend, then finish up the suspension cleaning, painting, re-assembly. Haveing lots of fun, and I havn't torn up anything expensive...yet.... EDIT... The new Strut Isolators are $43 per, so should I just go with MSA's street camber adjustment set up, has anyone got any input on those?

Did anyone mention which location the bead was supposed to be when ordering from http://www.mcmaster.com?

Well the rubber strap wrenches did NOT work. I don't know if there was still oil residue on the shaft of the strut or what but it slipped. I will try the impact wrench, take my time, and see what happens.

Don't worry, I plan on being VERY careful. Tonight I will try the std torque wrench again with a couple of new strap wrenches. Dunno if they will get me to 90 Ft/Lbs but worth a shot. I can prepair the ground piston with some rubbing alcohol or something and re lube later. What do you think?

Can you adjust the torque on those? I don't have one, but I am sure I could find one to borrow...

So if I ever do get airborne, in say... a high speed chace going through San Fran, just have a jack handy and reposition the springs, when I am done

The nut is new, it came with the new strut insert. It is a lock nut but not with the nylon threads it has three pinch spots on the top thread. It is snugged all the way down but I just can't get it torqued. I will try multiple clampings. All the threads are fine. Any thoughts on the spring being short?

Not the end of the world but I need some help getting the nut that torques down on the top end of the strut insert. The "D" shape is wallowed out in the rubber strut top piece. I have tried the RAG 'n' Vise grips angle which allowed me to get the nut all the way on but I can NOT torque the nut anywhere near 90lbs that tokico suggests. As for the lowered springs, there is about 1 to 1.5" of slop, the spring freely moves about, with the strut assembly all tightened up but not yet in the car. SHould i worry about this, or is all ok and I just need to make sure the spring and the cups that the spring sits in are all alinged. Any help is appretiated

soon to be 28

I would imagine that if you could match the compound and you had dim'ed dwg's you could make your own. Not sure where to obtain the compoud they use though. You know anyone with a set you could compare too?

It's an adjustable rear shock, those bikes have just the one for the rear.

The velocity it would take to just rip it in two...or maybe they are prone to that type of damage...

That is slick. I think that is the paint job I want to do but with blue on top.

I think the TL's and Ducati's are my favorite bikes, v-twin torque and those sexy lines. Very nice bike, stay safe!