fl327

hella much

bolt in with some wiring, but you can delete so much in a 240 its not funny, comes out really clean in early chassis, and with a couple buddies should take from 3 days to five years.

he wants 4, trust me.

i see it like this, yes you can get lsds, cheap but then the time and work is the cost. get a jy 300zx 3.7 r200 lsd- you have to change pinion flange, side axles, and get a brace for the rear if you use the finned cover. pay 1200 or so for a quaife bolt in unit, there you go thats it its bolt on-but costs alot initially. r230-custom mounts, pinion flange, custom axles and custom custom. me, im gonna keep looking for a clutch type 3.7 r200, and take my time doing so.

dont put a 510 motor in a 240z-you must defeat any 510 that comes your way, must....

it would have fit in my scarab 240z with four speed and r200 mounted in r180 position, yoke might engage too deep in the trans though.,

youre only as fast as your tires.,

im fighting the bug, but once i get an ic, i think im gonna lose.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1857001304 sourced this one, its from 944 turbo porsche, anyone have any experience with these, its not very tall or especially wide, but its very thick, im thinking its pretty good ic, just need second and third or more opinions...

i just say rb25 because the trans will work-its rwd. most of the time you get a good price on a half cut, and they dont mix and match, so rb25 is better than buying two half cuts, thats all.

if i ever listened to that datsun oil guage, id have dropped the pan by now. everyone ive ever had read low at idle, every one!

ls1 is only marginally lighter than cast sbc with al heads-the weight difference is because ls1 is pure beef internally. six bolt mains and cast cylinder wall liners-work of art.

i havent had the chance to run my turbo setup at the strip yet, and dont look forward to it, because i dont get to line up with chevelles and maros and blow their doors off anymore instead the turbo 6 gets to fight dsms and hondas out here, im not that upset its the racing that counts anyways. 14's are pretty good, what kinda setup are you running? im hoping for a 14 w/o an ic and 8psi ill be happy at this point with it. and yes the import guys have no manners at the track, and for the most part, no power and dont know how to race, ive rarely seen better reaction times than 1.00 and the average time is 17.1 or something like that. just sickening. and most of their clutches cant hold up to the waterbox and they get like one spin before you hear it slip, and then they go to the line and drag it down the track. sucks i tell ya, but in a couple weeks ill go kick some honda a$$

really want to blow the natives minds? bring a chevelle up there and bbc and tub it

do an rb25dett, that lil sr20 is for a small small car. there are a scattered number of people who have done this swap, and none of them are upset.

watchout with afm swapping, wrong wiring connection and you can fry and ecu really fast. make sure its the afm positively, if it is junkyards have them for about 20.00.

agreed. the armor all would have been rubbed off really quick by driving out the driveway, and probably faster since it was wet outside. what a dummy-crashing in a right turn, those are the easily corrected ones, probably was going way to hard over his driving ability, way to wreck a nice new car.

when i got the car it already had the autometer tach. to do the speedo, i had to drop the dash to do it, so i thought, now people tell me its possible to get it from the front, i cant even get half my hand up under there to loosen the wingnut to pull the tach and speedo out from the front. the other three are easy, just undo the heater control console and reach up and bend out the retainer unplug and booom there you are, the autometers go in just as easy with some simple mods to those retainers.

i have a 75ish 280, its definitely got 3.54s, a little wide for my tastes.

how do you get the tach out from the front???

i would say take the intake to a shop and have them do it, if they arent that busy should take them an hour or so, it shouldnt be their first time doing it, if you arent used to stuff like this, i would say spend the money on this process, and just run the intake you have now, that holley stealth ram sounds like bucks and ive read that youre pretty young, get that car up and running, maybe you wont be at 100 max power, but in that car you have enough to tame most with the combo you have, get that intake sent out, and bolt em up and burn some rubber.

you can have it modified to fit those heads, its a common mod, go to a engine shop they should be familiar with it.

you know what you do when you cant figure it out, read the freakin manual! exactly what i did, i went into it and figured that the pedal need almost an inch more travel to meet oem specifics for freeplay and clutch engagement, when i set them, i got perfect engagement, and promptly threw the car in reverse about five or six times to make sure i did it right, and i almost cried, it was like having a brand new car, it drives great, thanx yall.

toyota dropped the ball big on that car, to me, that thing is beautiful, and honestly, if it would have came off as hard as the z car did, i dont know which one i would be in, man stock that car had a dohc straight six with triple solexs on it and an irs. i would either have one with a v8 in it or a 2jz80 with a t78 or a 7mgte with fatman boost as well. too bad, or maybe too good.....

12s out of the turbo setup will require a lot of upgrades to the system. i would check out the fuel pump, i had a problem like that where it would stumble and buck like a bronco except when boost would come on, and i just sprayed the pump with battery cleaner and problem went away. i previously degreased the rear suspension and got dirt on the leads im sure. i have to run a bov with a line back to near the turbo on my setup as well, i remember when venting to atmosphere it would automatically stall out as soon as i got ready to shift into the next gear. im running a bosch bov, and it vents at idle, and has to be routed back behind the afm to not stall out the car. ive had a lot of stumbling issues to get the car to run right, but its cool now, if not a little bit slow to me, but i dont care, its a awesome driver and thats what i do, i drive, a lot. once i take care of other issues not car related, im gonna make it a better driver, and turn up the boost to about 10psi with an ic and drive a little faster, btw. one of my buddies ran 13.4 @108 with a stock turbo setup, starion intercooler, and 15psi and no traction-i didnt see it but i believe him, hes a good mechanic and trustworthy.