fl327

do you guys think that different years have different high speed stability. my 75zt loves it up at 90mph, thats the point that if im cruising in 5th im about 15-20 hg and if i stomp it ill be in triple digits and 10psi very fast, and its still pretty stable, but im a chicken and back off at that point- and the suspension is pretty shot, shocks and springs are pretty out and the balljoints are tired lookin and its stock ride height right now, my 72 v8 car was dropped about three inches, had coilovers, subframe connectors, a urethane airdam, big sway bars, you name it, all the bolt ons strut stuff, and it hated triple digits, a combo of the muncie timing me out and the chassis started to get light on me- what gives. the turbo car has a fiber glass airdam, and i can hear it splitting the air pretty loud at those speeds as well, and i think that may have alittle to do with it, but i would not think it would have much effect on top end performance? turbo car also weighs a bit more than the v8 car chassis wise. 2750ish for the turbo and 2400-2500 for the v8 car.

nitrous.

im not mad at the 400 at all, that trans will dish out some pain, but yes the freeway will suck-but hey my trans of choice in any v8 car is the super t10/ or a m20-21 bar none. my issue with it is that its way too big to fit in the tunnel without lots of hammer blows, i would go with 700r4 or 2004r if you could find one. its very wide.

the vent lines maybe, i guess if you did gaskets you did those too, check to see if they are snugged up well.

im pretty certain it will, but that stock efi may hold you back from realizing the 3.0 performance potential, you may get away with a bigger pump and a rising rate fuel regulator.

this is what gets me the most, is that the rb motor is known the world over to be that hardcore ish. europe, all of asia, and everywhere else but the us people are knowing the rb is the powerplant. the skyline is the japanese supercar-everywhere but here, so that people with this motor are few and far between. i think nissans cost would be cheaper to produce them, but maybe the price would go up because it would be dangerously fast. they could call it the 350z cause it woudl have 350hp, and not a hyped up maxima motor.

i came up on a built motor, but i would go stroker i were building one from scratch, if you are gonna go the cheap route, i would just go the junkyard and pull the engine, get the crank balanced and get all the bearings replaced, hone the block and re-ring the pistons. money that could have been used on a stroker could go some head porting, port and polish,an o-ring, and a steel headgasket, you should be ready for the world after that, granted you dont try to shoot 20psi on the stock efi system. hey josh b.- i can get chipped z31 ecu's custom tailored if youre interested, with increased inj. duty cycle, redline delete, you name it, i can probably get it done cheaper than a jwt.

its a good idea to fill it first, or just like half way, so you dont leave yourself in a puddle of pink when you install it, it takes a lot of fluid to fill it, so i would at least prime it with two or three quarts and then two or so for the rest of the trans, and fill er up once ive warmed the car up a little to get the fluid circulating.

went to the jy the other day, got out the crows foot and the big sockets and bars and yanked, not one, not two, not three, but freakin four turbos out of 280zxts and 300zx's, found a gem worth keeping, a factory t3 with no shaft play looking like a replaced unit(really did not look like it belonged on the car it looked nasty, but the turbo was looking pretty clean, car had wrecked something viscious on passenger side fender,, quickly bolted it up( pulled an all niter to get my dog barkin again), we back on line baby, did take a precaution and used my threaded wastegate rod and set it back to 6psi for safety, im flying half mast for a little bit now. youre right, im not going to try a t3/t4, i got a heavy right foot and would blow myself to pieces with my current setup, for now im gonna build around it with plans for a hybrid turbo, nice fmic with fat pipes, take it easy so i can make some progress is what i mean. if and when i go bigga turbo, im for sure gonna address fuel delivery and management, but for now im gonna t3 my arse off-in a while.

i would just like to see two super fast z cars do their thing. a proven ten second car thats the hybrid of us all versus the super L powered car, man i wish i could be up there, ill run both of you-ON FOOT! good luck to both, i dont know how to call this one you guys both have some serious power right there, but for videos sake can you hit the water box something special for me?

please follow your destiny, and give me at least fifty feet of wheelspin.

shoulda put an rb in that sucker.

need to scratch in the date too, man thats pretty cool, i just tag on my parts with a silver marker, really bad things.

roadsters are different from any of their brethren, they run a solid axle, some had ohc;s and some ahd ohv's, but hey a ford nine would be a great replacement in that sucker, and would make for some great piece of mind knowing you can beat on it pretty good.

replaced the slave, and played with the bumpstop and the rod, it started to improve, im gonna mess with it somemore now. thanx guys.

i know it basically bolts up because of the t3 hot side, with some change to the rubber hoses and such, but im wondering more on the oil lines and such, im running the factory hard line into the banjo fitting and factory dump to the oil pan on the other side, what changed plumbing wise for you guys-my turbo went bye bye the other night and ive got a line on a t3/t4 60-1 for a good enough price to bite on and want to have most everything ready for the swap to get it done quickly, cause its the little things like that that makes things take forever....

man i wish i hadnt ko'ed that sucker so fast, still runs good, cant drive hard though. no smoke anymore at all, im spoofed, but yeah i got some play in the "cold side" of the turbo. im looking at a t3/t4 on ebay, and a npr, and and and-here we go again.

i know of two roadsters with silvia motors, one has a sr20det(whoa) and another one with ca18det, 180sx turbo silvia motor, word has it someones going for an rb roadster. now thats hot.

theres a top notch russian woman who lives down the street from my buddies house. we call her "purple curtains" because her house has purple curtains, she rocks these skin tight bellbottoms all the time and shes super sexy, everytime she walks by the block puts down everything they are doing at the time to gawk at her, and she knows it, she walks with a switch and looks back at us, but wont say hi to any of us, shes hot stuff. da.

im so happy, the turbo is shot! hey better than having to tear down a motor right?. man headgasket would have made me real upset, man i got a HKS steel hg on the mother right now, i blow that at 8psi-you see me get real angry.

it has some pumped up maxima motor, whiles its tough and probably very quick, its a maxima motor reworked a little bit. man they coulda stuck a ten year old RB motor in there and made the world know what time it was. base model could be an rb20 or rb30, then you get the super nismo rb26dett edition driving two wheels, or even four i wouldnt be mad, they could detune the crap out of it, id know where to find it and im sure anyone else would as well. best of all, man and this makes me even more upset, domestic RB parts would be readily available to the public- Kragen would have my Sh$t. man oh man, oh well ill stick to my L28et for now, and keep spying on the supra forums.

our shop did up the nash bridges stunt car, dual shocks at every corner, completely reinforced chasiss, and yes before we painted the car we jumped the crap out of it for the owner (he was in car, and too scared to do it himself) can you say pogo stick?

v8 swap costs more than the turbo swap i think. you have to get a kit and bunch of driveline parts for the swap, but 300hp is easy, 300ft lbs is a given, 300hp i take that back, not so easy, but that tork makes you a street killer for sure. yes once you turn up the psi you will notice a loss in mpg, thats beacause most likely you will be flooring the gas everywhere you go so you can hear it spool it, thats been my weakness in mpg on my turbo car. but the driveline is cheap as heck, requires no mods, hardest part is wiring up the relays, fusible links, gas tank, and injection and ecu wiring, which requires all of four wires for the car to start, 300hp is a little harder to come by, but its really easy to get up past 200hp and have a way better driver at 3k than a 3k v8 swap-especially if this is the first one you have ever done. this is just my opinion, and im sure the v8 guys are gonna come rag me out again, theyre just mad i left the pack

v8 swap costs more than the turbo swap i think. you have to get a kit and bunch of driveline parts for the swap, but 300hp is easy, 300ft lbs is a given, 300hp i take that back, not so easy, but that tork makes you a street killer for sure. yes once you turn up the psi you will notice a loss in mpg, thats beacause most likely you will be flooring the gas everywhere you go so you can hear it spool it, thats been my weakness in mpg on my turbo car. but the driveline is cheap as heck, requires no mods, hardest part is wiring up the relays, fusible links, gas tank, and injection and ecu wiring, which requires all of four wires for the car to start, 300hp is a little harder to come by, but its really easy to get up past 200hp and have a way better driver at 3k than a 3k v8 swap-especially if this is the first one you have ever done. this is just my opinion, and im sure the v8 guys are gonna come rag me out again, theyre just mad i left the pack

hey this is a weird one, searched archives couldnt find much. here goes. the other night im drivning around, and everything is good, parked the car for a little while. went back and started driving again, and all of the sudden large amounts of smoke start billowing out the exhaust pipe, temp is fine, car is idling fine, the smoke begins to hollow out, and after a while, it almost goes away completely. drove the car home without any problems at all, it drives fine, does feel like its lost some power though. this was last night today im driving and its intermittantly throwing a puff of bluish smoke, but still not acting up, pinging, or even idling funny at all, and there is a visable oil leak on the exhaust manifold, im going to pull of the j pipe as soon as i get home to do some more analysis. i was hoping i had just coked up a large amount of oil in the turbo and burnt it out, but it seems to come and go and the oil is definitely all over exhaust manifold, anybody have an idea whats going on? im thinking either comp or housing on the turbine seals are leaking. anyone?