Jersey

In my opinion, that's exactly the right direction to go in, with the 7/8" Tilton. Joe (Rags) mentioned to me over a year ago that he used this same tilton MC on one of his Z's and it works great, and of course i nevr bougt one. Just one of those "never get around to it" kida thing i guess. Let me know how it works but i bet it'll solve your problem. The pedal pressure may increase a little more, but as long as disengages, right? I'm using the 11/16" slave now and had raise the pedal height, adjust the clutch rod out to where there's basically no free-play, and it still takes a little more then half the pedal to fully disengage! I would just try the stock 3/4" slave with the 7/8" MC. And then if you needed a little more, you could always bump the slave down to 11/16" but i'm betting you wont have to. If you running the T5, the pathy slave will bolt right up. For the Nissan tranny, you'll have to space the pathy slave out a little to have it sit flat. I think fl327 found an 11/16" SC that doesn't need to be spaced for the nissan trans but i cant remember what car it was from. I'll see if i wrote it down at work tomorrow. Keep me posted on the Tilton if you would. Good Luck.

Same happened to me right at the staging light one night and couldn't for the life of me figure it out just sitting in the pits while going over everything. An ol' timer walked up that noticed something was wrong the last time i was at the lights and told me i should try taking some clutch fluid out of the reservoir. He explained the same thing about the fluid heating up and expanding, and then I thought about how i did have the clutch adjusted real high for a quick shift and figured i'd give it a shot. Dipped a rag in the reservoir, soaked up a little Dot3 and sure enough, he was 100% correct. Never slipped again for the next 5 runs. Hope it's something as simple as that for you LS.

You could always bring that LSD here to NJ and we can install it in my '73, just so you can see how it's done and all

No sweat. Just makes it easier for everyone to answer your questions. Capping it works. GL.

I hope i'm not coming across as the Yoko's are a bad tire. It's just what i've noticed, with my Z, with the set i bought. I was really hoping i'd get a little better grip considering they are summer tires compared to the "all season" Dunlop 5000's like you mentioned Teg and also thought they'd be softer, grippier tire since they have a lower treadwear grade and the same traction/temp grades as the 5000's. I've run them at 30, 28 and even tried 26 but felt 28psi was right about where they should be. I haven't done too much major driving on them yet (probably 50 miles total and pushed them twice, three times) and the nights have been cool (high 40's, low 50's) so maybe they just need a little more time and warmer weather to start to really hook. Otherwise, you may just see all four Eagle wheels and newly mounted ES100's on ebay shortly Then again, maybe i'm just LOOKING for an excuse to change rims. LOL. Thanks for the replies all.

I have no idea what year, make or model Z this thermostat housing is from (might want to fill in your profile or add a signiture so we know what your working with) but i'll take a stab - It may be for the Auxillary Cooling Fan. It's the hairdryer looking device on the pass side of the motor that cools the injectors and fuel inside the lines when the Z is shut off if the coolant is above a certain temperture. The sensor might be called the Thermal Transmitter? Not 100% sure because i only use the Water Temp Sensor (the one that has the wire coming off of it in your pic) for the gauge. If your working with a Z and not ZX, please disregard my entire reply

Good luck! Make sure the pedal, at full extention, opens the throttle plate 100% Get dem 10's!!!

Yesterday while sitting in traffic, windows down, i hear.. "hey... what kind of car is that?" We get this a lot here in Jersey so i wasn't too surprised. I look over to answer the usual "'73 Datsun 240Z" but before the words come out, i happen to notice his car. I looked it up and down about three more times just to make sure i was right and yep, it really IS a 350Z this young guy is driving. I look back and answer "seriously???" with a grin. He replies without a grin, but with a puzzled look "uh.... yeah, seriously" I really didn't know what to say because i thought he was just kidding, but he WAS serious. I reply "This is the car your 350 got it's roots from. It's a '73 240Z" He still has the same puzzled look on his face, studies my car a little more, then says "hmmm" I just pulled slowly away, shaking my head, basically laughing inside. That was funny stuff. BTW - I meant nothing against the younger crowd in this post. This knucklehead just happen to be young

Welcome.

So i decided to buy a set of Yoko AVS ES100 225/15/50 as per this thread - here and i think i made a mistake. I've had the car on the road about 5 times since i've put these on (at the same time, i swapped back to a Nissan 5sp from the BW-T5) and each time i've got on the pedal hard and boosted about 16psi in second, the back just breaks loose and i'm all over. This never happened with the Dunlop Sport 5000's. I'm hoping once it gets into the warmer temps outside (average around 60deg here in NJ now) that these tires will have some more bite. Whats strange is that the Dunlops are 340AA A, and the Yoko's are 280AA A. I was hoping they'd be a better/softer tire but it's not looking that way. Just wanted to lend the info.

Rob, probably better to post this in the classifieds section HERE under the wanted section. Just a heads up.

22 5/8" from center to center of u-joint eyes. That's from my '82zxt coupe DS.

No sweat mc. Yes, from what i remember of the stock setup, it's fed by a hose that comes off of the stock J-pipe right after the turbo. PrOxLaMuS - I did have to open up the stock rad support holes to get the IC ends through. Also did a little cutting to get the 3" air filter pipe out front as well. The picture you posted is an older setup when i had with the small NPR IC.

Thanks. The measurement between my towers is now 35 1/2" and want to install one of these before i get an alignment and hopefully get in a few track sessions this year.

Just thought about it, this post may be better suited in the brakes/wheel/sus/chassis section. Sorry about that mods/admins.

For those of you that have a front strut bar installed, do you adjust them to retain the factory distance between the strut towers? From Mat73GNZ's album that has the 240 chassis dimensions - found HERE (Thanks Mat) it notes the towers should be 913mm (35.94") apart. Thanks in advance.

Took some quick pics last night. Funny, never realized that i never solidly mounted (with rubber for flex) the top of the NPR! lol. Both the IC ends and IC piping ends have lips on them which is why the silicon connections don't blow off. I'm sure the BOV helps this from happening as well. Anyway... MC - The VCV (circled) is threaded into the 4th intake runner... BTW - Sadam, thanks for the props but my current '73 isn't so nice, yet. Just trying to make it fast and then will concentrate on the body. The other Z in the gallery that 525 posted about was my first Z back in 1986. That body was completely redone. Wish i still had that '77! Anyway, good luck, hope the pics helped.

Sorry Saddam, no pictures found. If i get a chance, i'll snap a few off today/tonight. The boot was actually off of a '90 Laser. MC - i'll snap a pic of the VCV.

Exactly the way i was thinking Daw, and wishingful thinking as well. Maybe there's a way to find out, other than trial and error, by finding the aftermarket LSD that fits in our R200, and then find which additional applications that same LSD would work in. hmm. Thanks for the response.

Thanks for the info chris. I'm not too familiar with the 240sx's but if you could lend some more info on what years/models the R200's came in and if any of them were LSD units, that would help. Did you have to use the 240sx's halfshafts with the KAAZ unit you're running? I will do a search now as this sounds like this probably discussed here before. One of the main reasons i made this post was becasue i have an '88 Pathfinder that has an LSD rear in it and believe it's an R200A or H233 and was thinking this may work in the 3.54 open i'm running. Thanks in advance for any info. Jersey@cptclabs.com

LOL. It's not nice nice to make fun of the mentally challenged MAT! lol. No points, although you have earned them just trying to understand my rheteric, because i'd like to include other Nissan vehicle LSD's as well. So.. HA! I think i would like to delete this entire post and start again. My brain hurts.

No other parts are needed than what you listed. Use the collar that's with your '77. The pilot bushings are all the same. It's all a bolt-on. The stock clutch would work with a LW flywheel but, i see your kinda new to the board and your intentions of building your Z stronger are low right now. If you hang around long enough, the hybridz bug will most likely bite you so i would recommend going with the 240mm flywheel, PP and aftermarket clutch. Just my opinion. Good luck.

Ok, lol. I'll try again. Sorry, guess i'm just brain dead today. I was wondering which OEM LSD carriers have been tried to replace the open carriers found in the R200's. What a confusing post on my part has this been huh??? haha.