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Everything posted by Jersey
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Thanks.
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Seems my cousin has blown yet another stock cast piston with his T3/T4 so i think it's time to go forged. Just wondering if someone could tell me what specs i should give Ross for a set of stock size L28 forged. Thanks in advance. Recommendations are welcome as well. Not planning on stroking. Thanks in advance.
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Joe, you've got me cracking up over hear! lol. That's exactly what i did with my front plate... bend it up. ha. I'll try taking it completly off next time... that should be good for .004, right? lol. Thanks. PrO - My opinion, i think A LOT has to do with the launch. A younger guy at the track the other night told me that for every tenth taken off the 60' equates to about two tenths off at the end. I didn't know wether to believe him but it actually worked out just about right. Last year i ran the 12.47 with a 1.96 60'. This time i ran a 12.00 with a 1.78 60'. I've made no real changes between those times except launching better. No weight reduction, run it as i would on the street for the most part. I dont have a spare so that saves weight a little. You're right... practice is huge. I'm sure you can get well into the 12's if not 11's with your setup. Definetly need DR's or slicks and get a good launch. 525 - the donor car i got this motor from was sitting in the driveway, rusting to death, for the last 10 years unmoved. I approached the house and a little old lady told me it was he husbands car since new but he passed about 5-6 years earlier and she didn't have the heart to sell the car, but now thought it was time. $100 later and it was mine The threaded WG arm does give it a little spike but not much. I'll strap the camera back inside the car on a sunny day and shoot some video of the boost gauge. Thanks. Mus - I'm a mediocre driver as well so you should be right there. On the street, i usually run around 15-16psi on 93 pump.
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Yes, use your 6AL, the two step and this module. Just thought it would be nice to plug that 3000-5200rpm module into one side of the 2-step for your low limit and keep it inboard for easy adjustability and use a 6500 or 7000 pill in the other side of the 2-step for over-rev protection. Would be cheaper if you have a range of pills, just thought it would be cool
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It's just so confusing!!! lol. I didn't buy anything yet. I'm still looking into the digital 6 which has the rev limiters built-in and also a timing retard, if needed. If you have a 6AL and the 2 step, i would consider getting the MSD 8670 (click) for adjustability of your low limit. This way you'll be set for different track conditions, tempertures..etc. Just a thought. Let me know how you make out and how it builds boost. Real interested. Thanks.
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I ran BFG drag radials 236/60/15's @ 18psi. I slipped the clutch a little then released it pretty quickly. Put as much load as i could on the motor without spinning. By the sounds of the video, i seems could've have launched much better with more throttle but that is by far my quickest 60'. Still learning. Here's my setup to date: STOCK '82 L28ET & ECU T3 (ran 19psi at track) P90 3.54 open w/CV's '82N/A 5sp MODS NPR IC DSM BOV Act clutch/PP MSD 6a 370cc inj AFM sping tightened 18 teeth Threaded WG actuator 235/60/15 BFG Dr's 2.5" DP to 3" exhaust MSD FPR Walboro 255lpr pump Custom fuel rail I've never taken this motor apart. The head, pan, intake, exhaust manifold and T3 have been bolted together since '82 as far as know. The way i pulled it out of the donor ZXT is the way it went in my '73, just a little cleaner. Guess i got one of the lucky ones. Thanks guys.
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I've upgraded the video's audio quality so you can hear the T3 and R200 crying a little Thanks 525 but you're giving me WAYYY to much credit. It's just a happy Z i guess! I've been following your posts about selling your Z and i'm hoping the deal falls through for you tomorrow. lol. Just kidding, kinda You've taken your Z much further then a lot of people and should be proud. Maybe this just isn't the right time and situation, that's all. If it does go, i hope you wont stop writing those books (oops.. i mean posts )you do here. I wish you luck whatever way it goes. Moby, thats's just about what it weighed on the scale last year. One of these days i'm going to dyno it and find out for sure. Thanks for the info.
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Thanks guys. I think it sounds a little more throaty on the video then in real life but the camera was mouted on the rear stut bar so maybe it does sound like that back there? I'm going to re-capture the video to my computer tomorrow from my camcorder and use a little better audio quality. When i just listened to it over the net, you can't hear any of the T3 screaming for dear life. lol. EZ-E's right, 19psi PrO. Thanks again.
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Thanks John. WOW. Just awesome. I need to start doing that type of racing. Looks fun as h@ll! Those drivers are unreal. WOW.
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Mike, Fredericksburg Independent city or Fredericksburg Rockbridge? Shows me two differnet locations on Mapquest. I may be up for a road trip.
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Ted, i edited my last post to say "i hope YOU do" It said "i hope i do" I was out for MNF last night and posted afterward... a little lit up Thanks Rick. I'm sure you drive the Z just as good and probably better then me. The two-step looks very cool.
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Thump. i hope you do, really. This way i can stop with this stupid quest of mine. DO IT!
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Thumper, I completely understand what you mean. We probably just have a difference in opinion. The way i see it, without the stat, the coolant is always circulating no matter the temp which means i can keep the motor nice and cool right before i make a run. With a thermastat, the coolant/motor temp would have to get up to 160 before it flows through the radiator and then i'd have to cool it down from there. Also without the stat, there's less drag on the water pump. Might be slight but .004 is SLIGHT! lol. Thanks. Scottie - going to do the T3/T4 upgrade this winter no matter what and figured i'd use the digital 6 with that as well so it wouldn't be like i'm pissing $ away. Believe me, i've done enough of that for the last 38 years!!! lol. And i do understand about the T3 being a bit "uncontrollable"... quick spool period which can start to spin them, killing the 60'. So you don't think i should try and get the basic setup i have into the 11's, huh? lol. It's just something i really wanted to do with the stock ECU and T3. I need a winter project anyway and i'm not afraid to blow it up if need be Thanks for the suggestions.
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The main reason i'm interested in upgrading the my 6A is to have the "build boost while standing still" option, not really concerned with the over-rev protection but i guess i'll get that either way. I have the lin-loc but i'm not good enough to set that all up and put the correct load on the motor to build some boost all between the time of fully staged and when it's time for blast off. Plus, doing that bunch of times is a bit rough on the clutch! I was thining of going with the 6AL and the 2-step as well but then i noticed the digital 6 has it all built in and you can change rpm limits on both limiters with a twist of a pot in 100rpm increments. No pills to loose, and i know i would lose them! ha. My Z runs nice and cool on the highway without the thermostat with is another reason why i think the rad is a little jammed up also. It's probably creating enough restriction to keep the fluid from running through it quickly. The only time it gets to the middle of the gauge is when i'm idling for a while and then the fan kicks on and brings down the temp.
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Thump, sorry about not responding to one of your responces, i totally missed it until Mike mentioned it, and then i was like "what the h@ll is Mike talking about... I"M WITH TED..." lol. Sorry. Ok, so it was rich all through, and you're right, i really do need to dyno or at least WB log it. I just keep holding off an everything until i (hope) to hit the 11's and then go aftermarket or Z31ECM which will allow me to run safer and log everything. I do think my radiator is a bit blocked up and hope to change it for a nice Griffin or similar this winter. I've been running without a thermastat all year. I took it out last year before i went to the track and never put it back in. Runs nice temps believe it or not. I did check the HTS and it's values are right in the range of what the FSM says. I tried different temps to make sure. Thanks Ted/Mike. Thanks EZ-E. Stock '82 driveshaft. I am using CV's Thanks Scottie. Me Too...I can't wait to do a T3/T4. Hope to run the T3 once more at the track, get the 11 and then start doing upgrades this winter. Question, since i know you're "pretty" familiar with dragging Have you heard anything good or bad about the MSD digital 6 plus? The two-step feature sounds like it would help me off the line and the digital 6 has it built-in. Thanks.
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Thanks Mike. Appreciate the responce.
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Hey Mike, just out of curiosity... why do you think Alex is such a great guy? Just wondering, that's all. I hope it all works out for ya. - Jersey
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I asked a few questions HERE but didn't get much responce. If one (or more )question(s) could be answered, what determines the amount of boost built with the two-step? Is it like, if i set the low side pill @ like 3000RPM, does it only build a certain amount of boost and if i raise the rpm pill value, does the boost build higher? If so, what rpm pill builds what kind of boost with the two-step? What's a ballpark boost level to launch at with at the track? I know these questions are tough to give a definitive answer to but if i get some sort of idea, i could buy a range of pills that would put me in the general area of getting it right. Just trying to get the Z set up with this before i take one more shot @ the 11's in 2 weeks. I think this setup would help me do it. Thanks in advance.
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Thanks Thumper. I do creep to the line then stop immediately as soon as the second light lites up but i may be rolling a little because like i said, while holding it @ around 5k after i've staged, the top light has gone off a few times meaning deep stage. Not a good thing for what i'm trying to accomplish... now i know. Appreciate the knowledge.
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I did business with him ONCE about 2 years ago and WILL NEVER do business with him again. I will not go into details because i dont want to "internet bash" but have documented everything from that day and even saved the 1 hour IM conversation between he and i just in case i even needed it. I hope he supllies everyone with the parts they've ordered with him, or at least some kind of compensation. GOOD LUCK.
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Thanks. Always learning.
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Thanks Thumper. Understand. So, how do you shallow stage?? haha. Sorry, I'm green. I know when you deep stage the top beam goes off leaving only the bottom.