Jersey

Sorry Mat, i just checked back to see if i wrote LSD and sure enough, i didn't! lol. Info on any type LSD carrier that has been tried in place of an open carrier for the R200 would be helpfull. Thanks.

I'm sure some of you have tried and was wondering which carriers have been tried to fit in the R200 with the stock R&P? If you could explain why it wouldn't work, this info would help as well. Thanks in advance.

Put the n/a '82ZX tranny in the other night to see if it'll hold up any better then the T5. Time will tell i guess. There was a little confusion on my part (and still is) about how to determine which Nissan 5 speed is which by looking at them. The best way (imho) is to physically check out the ratios in each gear by spinning the DS one rev, counting how many revs the input shaft turns, then compare those #'s to the ratio chart.I took some side-by-side pics of three different Nissan 5 speeds i had before installing the '82. The middle trans's ratio's worked out to be the same as the '77 but it had longer shifter ears than the Z tranny but not as long as the '82's. I was told it came out of a ZX so i can only assume it was from a '79. It could have also been rebuilt at some time using a different case, i'm just not sure. There are also some differences in the cases between the three, especially the tailshaft housings. I just figured i'd post a few pics that might help someone else out...

Got it sims. Thats the same kit i ordered a couple years back, just a different # i guess. I just got my trans back in last night, finishing at 3am. All worth it after being on the jackstands for about 3 weeks! Good luck with the install and let me know how you make out. BTW - i swapped the slave to a 11/16" to get more throw when i did the original ACT install, which again, increased pedal pressure more. With the stock 3/4" SC and with the pedal stop adjusted up all the way in and, all pedal freeplay taken out, the pedal needed to be on the floor to disegage. The smaller 11/16" SC helped but i think a better option would have been to go with a larger MC, like the 3/4" Tilton. Just a heads up. Hope it all works out perfect for ya.

You probably did him a favor cygn. He probably sh*t his pants and hopefully realized afterword that he was way in over his head at that moment and will remember it the next time. I sold my cbr900rr last year, basically for the same reason Mike did. I've ridden motorcycles since i was 5 and this RR was just set up so perfectly for me. This was my 6th sportbike, but felt like an extention of my body it was so nice. Each day i had the bike out i'd take this one of ramp that had a nice long rolling curve that was pitched just right. Each and every time i'd push it just a little more it seemed. Felt like i was going to scrape the tank sometimes. One day while pushing it, and myself, real hard around that turn, the thought of "i wonder what would happen in this turn when that front washes or if the rear breaks loose really far?" Well, i came out of it fine, went home parked the bike in the garage for a week and was freaked out about that thought. Never did i think like that. A week later, i took the bike out on a perfect sunny day, came to that same turn, laying into it and that damn thought came right back. Went home, parked the bike out front and put a "for sale" sign on it. That was it. I knew if i was thinking that way, it was bound to happen sooner or later. I'm not sure why it happened, maybe because my wife was pregnant with our 3rd or, just hitting that age (37) but, i'm glad it did because i'm still here

I looked for NX2-HDSS here - CLICK but couldn't find the info on that kit. 2 years back, i bought the NX2-HDMSS kit which had the four smaller spings and it didn't say Exedy on the disk. This time, i just bought the disk (ND007S), TO bearing and pilot seperately and the disk was stamped Exedy. It was a major pedal increase from the stock setup. As a matter of fact, see below what happened. Check the arm your using for stress cracks before using it with the upgraded PP. May save you a headache of having to pull the trans sooner than you want GL.

I'm not sure if ACT just started using EXEDY plates but, i also noticed that my 2 year old ACT plate looked different then the one i just bought. On the new one, the spacing between the organic pads are further apart and it had 4 springs that are bigger and thicker then the old disk which had 6 lighter weight springs.

While installing my new ACT organic clutch disk last night, i noticed it had "EXEDY" engraved on it. Just a heads up.

Vin, is that the VCV between the two pieces of hose? That piece was threaded into the 4th intake runner, right? If so, do you think any pressure from your turbo pushes up that hose, causing the VCV to open and allowing boosted air to basically bypass your IC? Then again, when you're boosting, manifold pressure is rising as well which puts more pressure on the back side of that VCV probably keeping it closed. hmm... Another thought - that VCV may not vent too much air considering it's size compared to a BOV. You might be putting more backpressure on your turbo on throttle lifts than you might want. Just my opinions/thoughts.

I just picked up a Nissan unit that is suppose to be out of an '82-'83ZX (it does have the long shifter ears) but before i put it in tonight, i went and checked the ratios for the heck of it. I may be doing it wrong (hopefully) but here's the way i did it - i put a clutch disk on the input shaft and marked a line on it which i always started top dead center, and marked the driveshaft TDC as well. Here's what i got... 1st gear, the clutch disk rotated about 3.3 revolutions to 1 driveshaft rev 2nd, a little over 2 times 3rd, about 1.3 times 4th, 1 time 5th, about .8 Now that just about matches the 77-79 5speed ratios: 1st - 3.321 2nd - 2.077 3rd - 1.308 4th - 1 5th - .864 I'm hoping someone can tell me that i did it wrong and this really IS an '82-83 so i can just slap it in and get this thing back on the road!!! lol. Here's a pic that might help...

No problem Scottie. Maybe there should be seperate timeslip databases like, one for "other than Z's" and maybe another like "other than L28" LOL. That would put me higher on the list I still think 2800lb and 285hp N/A, a 12.27 might be a bit hard to come by. I hope he does come foward and prove us all wrong but, i may bet against it.

I believe what 525 is referring to is the VCV (Vacuum Control Valve) pjo046. It is mounted on the intake and is a one way valve allowing air INTO the intake and not out. A hose gets connected to it and routes back to the stock J-pipe. Here's a post about the VCV i made a while ago...click HERE

I'm in Morris County, up near Wayne NJ. I dont know a whole lot but if i can lend some knowlegde, let me know. Getting together at the track sounds good to me. Last year, for the 5-6 times i was there, i was the only Z. Would be nice to have some support I went to Englishtown twice which was 2 times too many. Great prepped track but both times i only got 2 runs for the 6 hours of basically waiting around. Just isn't worth it to me. I go to Island now which doesn't seem much futher from you Zero - 280 to 80w i would guess. It's not as perfect as Englishtown but, on most nights, you can just about run round robin all night long.

Hey Scottie, i was smelling that same odor! lol. I say if he doesn't respond to this or can't back it up in any way, he should be removed from the timeslip database. This way, it moves me up one spot. HAHAHA. Send me the scan if you want and i'll see if i can make it legible and send it back to ya to post. Jersey@cptclabs.com

Happy belated Dan! Thanks.

I was just wondering your setup considering you're running a 285hp, 2800lb N/A ZX and pulled a 1.2 60', 12.27 1/4 on street radials? I got this info HERE

Thanks Z Driver. Good to always keep track i guess, especially when you get old like me and tend to forget things quickly!

Hey all. I was browsing some old pics and information i've gathered over the years about Z's and came across a log i made back in 2003 when i was swapping the '82ZXT drivetrain into my '73 240Z. Reading it now, i have to laugh but i do remember being exhausted for that entire month. I just figured maybe someone else would get a kick out of it. Just to give you some background, I bought the Z in August of '02, swapped basically the entire drivetrain from a '78 280 into it (L28 - w/SU carbs/5sp/R200) in September of '02, drove and raced it a few times like that until the HybridZ.org bug bit me good in March of '03 when all the madness started. lol. Enjoy. On the dates listed below, work started in the garage usually around 8pm each night... 3/22/03 to 3/29/03 Removed the ’78 L28,5speed and R200 from 240. Removed everything possible from engine bay – fuel lines, brake lines, all wiring pulled back into cab, brake cylinder with booster, clutch cylinder…etc. Removed gas tank and fuel pump. Cut out battery tray. Ground down frame rails, cut out rust on inner fenders including cutting out passenger side firewall and complete section under battery tray. Drilled out all spot weld for hangers on frame rails. Bought 3x8’ 18ga steel and formed new piece(s) for under battery tray and firewall. Also picked up 1 8’ piece of 16ga angle iron, 2 ¼â€x 2 ¼â€inside diameter. Cut in half for replating frame rails. Bought floors from Charlie (ZeddFindings). More grinding/cutting. Welded new pieces (frame rail/firewall) in place. More grinding/cutting. Drilled out spot welds and cut tranny side tunnel and removed passenger side floor. Formed/shaped/cut/fitted new floor. 3/29/03 Grinded/prepped/cleaned 240 engine bay. Painted new firewall and battery tray area. 3/30/03 Continued prepping 240 engine bay. Metal prepped. Primed 3 coats. Sprayed black 3 coats. Seam sealed everything. 3/31/03 Re-taped stock wiring harness. Pulled back into engine bay and re-ran cleanly. Removed front valance to see if I liked the way the Xenon urethane airdam was going to look. I picked it out of the junks for $20 in perfect shape…couldn’t pass on it but it’s made for the 75-78 280’s which means this air damn has no lower blinker cut outs. Liked the way it looks and will figure out custom blinker setup. 4/1/03 POR15’d the inside of the ’75 gas tank. Note to self: USE GLOVES NEXT TIME. 4/2/03 I think the POR15 affected my brain since I forgot what I did this night! Lol. Note to self: Wear mask with gloves. 4/3/03 Figured out how the stock 240 metal expansion tank works with its 5 vents. Ran new hoses. Ran new 10Ga wire for ZXT fuel pump. Decided to run new 3/8†SS fuel supply line for the injection and use the old 240’s supply 5/16†line as the return. Left the old return in place – ends under hood. Re-routed the other steel line under the hood that went to the 3 way valve from the expansion tank to the other side of the engine bay (pass side) in case I want to use the charcoal canister with the ZXT motor. Ready for ’75 tank install. 4/4/03 Tried mounting ’75 tank in ’73, straps come up short. Guess the ’75 tank, which should be used for the fuel injection since it has the baffle plate inside, is a slightly different size where the straps go around. Cut and welded extensions on existing hook bolts. Fought with filler neck hose. Finally up tight and bolted in. 4/5/03 Removed ZXT hood. Started unhooking and labeling everything from ZXT motor in the ’82 – getting it ready to be removed. Removed R200 rear w/cv axles. Noticed it was 3am on clock…. to then just realize it was actually 4am due to time change. 4/6/03 Continued removing/labeling everything from ZXT motor/T5. Removed ECCM and undid all the wiring from everything but the motor. Removed motor w/T5 tranny and wiring harness attached. 4/7/03 Unbolted everything I wasn’t going to use in the 240 and some other stuff that may get in the way of cleaning it up. 4/8/03 Wire Wheeled, cleaned ZXT motor. Decided to remove complete fuel injection assembly and try cleaning top of intake better. Good place that catches a lot of crap. 4/9/03 Degreased/cleaned/wheeled ZXT motor more. Wheeled/cleaned brake/fuel/clutch hard lines in the 240 including brake proportioning valves and routed/bolted into engine bay. Mounted Clutch slave cylinder. 4/10/03 Customized original fuel pump bracket to accept ZXT pump. New hoses. Soldered wires. Mounted fuel damper. Connected all hoses. Started lining up how to route 3/8†SS supply line up front. 4/11/03 Local salvage yard on lunch – picked up a pair of Miata seats (build date 5/89) Later that night – painted block and all bolt ons, ran 3/8†SS fuel line and strapped it to original fuel lines. Used clear 3/8†pieces hose to insulate were the line would rub 4/12/03 bolted painted parts on, Cut and welded a custom mount for the T5 to be accepted in the stock 240 mounting location. Installed brake cylinder, tightened down all fittings. 4/13/03 (7 yr wedding anniversary) pulled CV yokes out of ZXT. Removed ZXT’s pressure plate, clutch and flywheel. Installed my 2+2 240mm Fly/clutch/PP to torque. Bolted T5 up. Wheeled(cleaned) a little of the T5. 4/14/03 Received 1990 Mustang T5 stock shifter in mail today. Ebay - $20 incl. shipping. Bought rubber fuel line - $8 a foot for 130lb rated 3/8†line - OUCH. Night - replaced rack-n-pinion with one stripped off of ’78 donor. Painted front crossmember, piece behind grill, motor mounts. Installed motor & T5. yes. Custom T5 bracket lined up perfectly with 240 stock mount. 4/15/03 dropped off air dam to be painted. Night – wheeled and installed fuel injection rail, starter, alternator, fuel filter bracket. Tried flaring the 3/8†SS fuel line I ran, for about 2 HOURS, finally broke the Snap-On (bluepoint)double flare tool. Damn. Hope they warranty it. 4/16/03 Salvage yard on lunchtime – picked up AFM to turbo boot and a BOV mount from a ’90 Plymouth laser. Hoping boot will replace stock boot. Has the BOV input, the valve cover breather and another place to accept the VCM and is shorter which may help fit the ZXT AFM in the 240. 4/17/03 to 4/21/03 Cannot remember what I did each day for the last 5 nights because I didn’t write them down but I was working on the car each night until 2-3am. Easter Sunday included. I know i installed the ZXT harness, wired everything up, ran one separate leg of harness that went to the fuel pump harness and 2x8 plug INSDE of car to passenger side kick panel and made connections there. Removed 2 fusible links and ran wires through firewall to battery – fused. Mounted ECCS on driver kick. Pulled out hood cable and opened up hole to about 1 ½†– pulled hood cable and ZXT harness through. Cut 3/8†off of wastegate arm, threaded ¼-20, re-installed. Re-flared both ends of 3/8†SS line with new double flare kit, put a bunch of new/replacement lines/hoses in, welded BOV on turbo to TB pipe, painted and installed pipe, capped off all unused intake manifold ports, installed fuel injection rail, alternator, starter. Decided not to use VCM and capped off port on boot and intake. Finished welding in passenger side floor and rail – pained/seam sealed EVERYTHING. Installed blower motor. Messed around a little with the rails on Miata seats and the stock pod to accept 2 5/8†Autometer boost gauge. Removed old 240 hubs, installed new 40x72x10 National seals (needed to shave about 1mm off of O.D., then slid in snug), tack welded 240 hub dust shields on ZXT CV hubs and installed, put in R200 w/cv’s, driveshaft length fine, stub axle length tight…especially on drivers side..will know if they’ll bind when I get the wheels to the ground… 4/22/03 Had to fabricated custom intake out of 3†aluminized pipe for air intake. Needed to cut radiator support it was so close. Installed “Green†filter. Cut/grinded/bolted on piece that covered mech fuel pump hole in P90. Attached remembered ground under/from AFM. Installed radiator & fan. Redline MT-50 in T5. 5 quarts Mobil1. New NGK wires and plugs. Cap. Rotor. 6 gallons of gas. Fired her up…runs just about perfect! Volt gauge was a little low when in “run†or “on†position and idle was a little high – 11-1200rpm. 4/23/03 Morning - went over the complete charging wiring then found the gauge to be off. Had to try it before off to work (Impatient) and bothered me all night. Adjusted the throttle stop a liitle and brought the R's down to 800. Nice.

Found an old pic from a couple of years back when i first dropped the turbo motor in and before i had an IC and a few other things. You can kinda see where that DSM (Diamond Star Motors) puts the AFM...

The left side of the boot connects to the T3, the right side to the AFM (which gets it out and away from the motor) and the smaller hose connects to the BOV, if i want to recirculate it back. If i find a pic, i'll post it. May make it easier to understand. Not saying it's the right way, or the best, just the way i did it. On my cousins 280, we just used a short 3"rubber coupling to connect his T3/T4 to the AFM and then another 3" rubber coupling to connect to a cone filter which sits inside the engine bay. I'd like to change that someday because i'm sure the added heat from the bay getting sucked in from the filter doesn't help the T3/T4.

From what i remember, i had one end of a 2.5" 90deg pipe stretched to match the IC size then welded in a 2.5" to 2.25" reducer, then a 2.25" 90deg to the 280zxt TB. I didn't use any silicon reducers, just all straight pieces. I used a DSM boot to connect the T3 to the ZXT AFM (pic below) and then made a 3" pipe to route through the rad support out to the cone filter. Good luck with the T5 rebuild.