Jersey

Pete, Master of Science in Mechanical Engineering, solid mechanics , As i mentioned in my previuos post, i do know that fact and fully agree with you that a curved bar will flex more than a straight bar. I was just stating that i don't think the amount of force the rear shock towers apply to either bar will be any different. Technically, i have not measured the amount of force the rear shock towers apply inward or outward AND have not measured the amount of force it takes to start flexing the curved bar i used, but it is my opinion that it is strong enough to do as good as job as a straight bar considering the limited amount of pressure applied by the rear towers. Len Network Administrator, 36, husband and father of 3

I think your absolutely right Pete that a straight bar is stiffer for lateral movement but, i'm going to have to disagree with you 100% if you think that bar is going to flex under any amount of load those shock towers are going to apply to it. If it did, i think the back of my Z would have been caved in by now with all the pressuse i put on those towers before i had this bar. Just my opinion. And really, it was just a fun project for a couple of hours in the garage to see what i could do with it. Hope i didn't offend anyone with this not-so-technical post to begin with.

525 - a couple of questions... What size fuel feed and return lines are you running? You say that it runs like crap when you connect an O2? If you're currently not running any kind of O2, what signals your ECM to come out of limp mode and accept readings from the sensors like TPS position/HTS value and make adjustments to things like injector rate? Just curious. Thanks.

The picture is just a reference shot of what the tire i have looks like, if that's what you mean. Otherwise, yes, i'm sure i'm using the '82 ZXT rim with my DR's. Sorry to confuse if i did.

I run the BFG DR's 235/60/15 when i go to the track on a set of 15" turbo rims, which i thought were 7" wide but i could be wrong. Anyway, they fit on my '73 without coilovers and dont rub the fender. Hope this helps.

525 - have you checked your injectors to see if they're all spaying a nice clean pattern? Could be part of your leaness on top as well. Just a thought.

Thanks guys, and thanks for the clarification on what the defenition of a "squid" is! lol. I just had this laying around the garage and figured what the heck. It was banged up on the ends that's why i figured i'd cut it up and see what i could do with it. Seems to tighten the back up a bit. Front to come soon

haha! thems fightin words Jon. Anytime you're on the East coast, come on by... i'll run ya with my "sissy"

Yes, yes it is

Look familiar???

I was running about 14psi with the warlbro pump and 3/8" feed from the tank, stock injectors and NPR. I was probably running a bit lean on top at that level but never put it on a dyno to verify. I would think you'd be safe to the 12psi range as long as your getting that air cooled nice and there isn't much of a drop across your IC. Are you taking your PSI reading right at the intake? Also, you might also want to think of putting in the cheap MSD-2222 before you go to the dyno. This way, if you find out you are running lean on top, you can crank down on the pressure a little bit to possibly squeeze a little more out of the stock injectors. Yes, it will make you run richer down low and mid throttle but you'll be safer when the urge to pin it to the firewall arises Just some ideas.

Running stops and these are the rear which never bottom. With my old Eibach springs, the KYB's seemed fine. A week after i swapped these stiffer springs in, the seals blew leaving a big mess all over the rear suspension. I guess we'll see if these hold up. BTW, a blown strut will make the @ss of a Z shift alllll over the place. Amazing how much it affected the response of a slight bump. Thanks for all the help and responses.

Well, then... it looks like they can handle a heckofalotta stess! lol. Thanks again John. Great help. Now i need to see if the valving in the KYB's are too light and just can't handle a 210lb spring rate. Completely blew out the seals in the last set.

Way to go 525. Nice job.

What the heck am i doing wrong? While replacing my struts tonight, i took some spring measurements. Here's what i came up with: CSPWD = .5 NOAC = 7.5 CMD = 3.875 so.... (11,250,000 x (.5 x 4)) / (8 x 7.5 x (3.875 x 3)) = 22,500,000/8 x 7.5 x 11.625 = 22,500,000/697.5 = 32258.06...?

Looks great Yasin. Nice work!

525, you just need to install the darn IC! I know you have a lot of questions and sometimes there's no perfect answer for everyones different application. Just get that sucker installed and turn up the boost a bit!!! Here's a post from about a week or so ago with information about routing of the pipes - CLICKY I think the way Drax routed his pipes makes more sense to get the coolest possible air to the intake but if your running your filter out front through the rad support on the drivers side, it may be a bit easier the way Cygnus and i ran them.

I have one 2" coupler stretched over a 2.25" pipe and two 2.25" couplers stretched over either sides of my NPR IC 2.5" openings. No, it's not easy but it can be done.

Thanks.

Dont mean to steal the thread but, hey Cody... how did you figure out tthat the size of the restriction is large enough to supply the turbo with enough oil at all times? Just curious. Thanks.

525 - get a 2" 90deg pipe for coming out of the T3, then goto 2.25" pipe and connect them by using a 2" silicone adapter (they can stretch the 1/4") Then right at the end of the 2.25" pipe meets the IC, you could either get a 2.25 to 2.5" metal reducer (really enlarger) welded on and use a 2.5" silicone adapter or, just use a 2.25" silicone adapter and stretch it over the 2.5" IC neck. Coming out of the IC, use a 2.5" to 2.25" metal reducer welded to a piece of 2.25" pipe and run it right to the TB. If the ID of the IC outlet is 2.5", i would get the 2.5" pipe stretched open a little so the air doesn't hit any kind of lip. Which way are you running the pipes - T3 straight run to the IC then, IC out across the back of the rad to the TB or, vise-versa?

Do you have any free play? If it's right on top, try adjusting the clutch rod that goes into the clutch master. Maybe it's not fully engaging as you mentioned.

Sean, did you upgrade the PP as well or just put in an Exedy clutch disk? It may just be that the PP is too weak but, if that is the case, i would rip it down and replace the PP with something stronger before you really burn your new disk out. Just my opinion.

James/Tim... specs? Sorry if i missed it. Very nice! Congrats.

Thats your oil pressure sender which sends signal to your oil pressure gauge, making the needle move. I wouldn't remove it. Also, i'd do some searching before you make the feed any larger than what it is. I believe i've read that some have reduced the hardline size because they've found the stock line provides too much oil which will eventually start blowing by the turbo seal. Just a heads up.