Jersey

I can't see them either. I would think you should be getting better 1/8's/mph than you did as well. Your launch/60ft should tell the story.

Using a snap-on gauge. Compared it with another cheaper brand and got the same readings. Also, just did a compression check with the same gauge about a month or so ago on my cuz's 280 after his build and the #'s were 140-142 across all 6 so, i'm thinking it's close to being correct. Thanks guys.

I did a compression check a while ago with about the same exact readings. The other night when i posted this, i had just adjusted my valves and then checked compression. Hard to tell through the spark plug hole which pistons are in there but i'll try again. I'm sure i'll be pulling the head soon enough for one reason or another. Guess i'll find out then. There are little spots of carbon on the plugs which is why i thought carbon was causing the increased compression results. Probably multible things attributing toward it as you suggested ninja. I think my Z is pretty far from "properly modified" but so far, so good Work in progress. Thanks for the replies and info guys.

#1

Off the top of my head, mine ohmd out to be 1.1k ohm when the head temp was near 110. The value changes in relation to the temp of the head. I don't have my FSM here at work but could check when i get home in a couple of hours if nothing gets posted before that. Is your TPS working correctly?

and came up with 162-163 across all 6 I thought it was suppose to be around 142 max and 100 min on an '82 L28ET? If so, think it could be carbon buildup causing this much of an increase? I bought the '82ZXT donor car with 80k miles on it, owned by an older guy all it's life and was off the road for the last 10 years, since he passed away. The wife didn't know of any performance mods he may have done to it (do they ever know the half of it??? ) and it seems the motor has never been touched other than maintenance. I'm figuring maybe flattops in the F54 with the P90 is causing the raised compression values but then, why have i been able to run 16-17psi with the T3 without ping? Strange. Idea's?

I built mine out of 2-45deg 2.5" SS pipe. I think Jeff was making some systems a while back which were real sharp. Here's his link - CLICKY

What's the plugs look like after a nice high R run? What's supplying spark? Bad tank of $5/gallon gas?

Thanks Jon. You're so right. It was one of the best times i had at the track. Here in NJ at the track i go to on Friday nights, believe it or not, i outrun most of the guys by a good amount. Dont get me wrong, there are a few regulars that have "non-streetable" cars that kill me and run 9-10 second quarters but for the most part, the street guys are usually running 14-15seconds. I only run on open test/tune night just to have fun and see if i can beat my own personal best but, when Nick and i were side by side like that for basically the whole run, that was great. It probably helped that it was another Z as well It was also fun to have a bunch of people come around our cars in the pits to see what kind of cars they were (most young kids have no idea) and to see what we were running. Not many Z's in our area that come out of the garage and play (RAGS ) Actually, not that many Z's in NJ period!

Thanks Gabe. Converted to CV's when i did the turbo swap. Hope they hold up after i can plant some power to the ground with stickys. We'll see.

You're so right Garrett, they do suck but i just had to ease off the line or i would just spin em. I'm looking to get the Hoosier QTP 26-9.5x14 for the next time. Just hard to eat $175 for a track only tire when i dont go very often. My setup is damn near yours except it's a '73, no 60mmTB and NPR IC. How do you get any traction? Ivan, sounds like you've been slacking It also sounds like you could use a hand...(cough)garrett(cough) Yo, i hope to be down where you run in the low 12's. I was thinking the same - with 111-112mph i (we) should be mid to low 12's but, if i actually hook and get a good 60, i think my trap speed will be less due to that i'll be covering the track faster, no? I can never figure that whole trap mph/ET thing out. Guess the only true way is to just change it up and go back! Thanks guys. What do you guys run tire-wise at the track? I need something sticky that'll last a bit.

Shifted @ about 5800rpm. Sounds weird on video, like 3rd gear is flat. Thanks Yasin.

Thanks guys. It was more or less to find out how Nicks 280 would do... and to see what was weak and would break Turned out, we both drove home just as we drove in... this time. No real updates on my Z, added a FPR and turned it up a little just so i wouldn't lean out too much as i (think) was the last time at the track. Same stock T3 running about 16-17psi. Once again, horrible 60ft times. Everyone said the same that the track was a bit slick and i'm sure our street tires didn't help. Oh yeah, I'm sure 95-100% humidity didn't help much either! lol. That run between us wasn't the fastest but, it was definitely the most fun i had at the track. We were basically side by side the whole time. He left the gate first, i caught and passed him by about 1/2 foot, then around half track we were near even and then his T3/T4 just pulled a bit more on top and he edged me out. Couldn't have been more than a foot between us the entire race. I did run the quarter faster then him on that run but he crossed the line inches before me so, he's been enjoying hanging the image of that little red light at the end of the trap over my head the last few days It was real fun. Here's the timeslips. I'm 6623 and Nicks 6666...

12.86 @ 112.14mph - CLICKHERE My '73zt -vs- Cousins '78zt - CLICKHERE

Thanks. You're not kidding with the tires. Last time i went, i promised i wouldn't go back without real tires... broke my promise and suffered! lol. I mainly went to see how my cousins 280 is running, which turns out good. Think i'm going to look into the Hoosier QTP's - 26" for both of us. The tires i ran at the track were 25" and @ 112mph, i was crossing the trap near 61-6200 rpm. T5 w/3.54's. Think i'd like to be down near 5500 and hoping the 26" will do it. NO LSD but we didn't have a problem with the one wheel peel. Always hooked both tires... well, spun both tires i guess. lol. I'll post vids soon on a new topic. Thanks again guys.

Best run i had this past friday was my best by .022 and 1 mph I ran a 12.866 @ 112.14mph. No traction AGAIN. 60ft was a horrible 2.11. Humid as heck too @ 95-100%. Nick and I ran side by side a few times, but just could not hook off the line. Actually, nobody could. We did get one run in side by side that was fun as heck - My 13.236 @ 111.45 to his 13.291 @ 113.81. Neck and neck the entire way down the track! .055 difference. Video to be posted soon.

IF you decide to part it out, PM me with the specifics on the T3/T4 and what you'd want for it. Thanks.

Hey David. I think the price should be double for you considering your signiture You have over 1700 posts here and someplace else is the "best Z-car hangout on the net"?? LOL. Ummm... no.

Thanks for the info 327. I'll need to look at where others have placed their addl injector(s). I didn't know that before the TB would be better off then after. I guess better atomization and distribution? I also cant understand why this wouldn;t cause more chance of detonation since there be a good mix of A/F in the intake? Have my homework to do. Anyway, picked up 2 MSD-2222 adjustble FPR's today, one for Nick and one for me (i dont really need it probably with my little T3, but i dont want to fall too far behind ) and installed them both tonight. He was running 32lb of fuel @ idle and nearing ping @ 18# boost. We cranked the MSD to about 40lbs @ idle and can now stretch the T3/T4 up to about 21lb. I think we're going to make a run for the track if the weather hold out tomorrow (friday) night. Maybe slap a liitle 104 octane in there and see how she runs. It's gonna be a shame when he sees my tail lights when crossing the trap

Here's my estimates. I may be off but i'll take a shot... l28et block, p90head - depends on what's wrong with #5. $2-300 for the P90 euro pulley - I'd sell with the sds t3/t4 stg 5 turbo - free dual port wastegate actuator - unsure n42 shaved intake black wrinkle powdercoated - $150 ZCC fuel rail - $100-$150 370cc SVO fuel injectors - $100-$150 60mm 240sx TB - $60 JSK Tb spacer - Not sure what JSK sells his for? $100 NPR I/C - $150-$225 depending on size All I/C plumbing ceramic coated - $150-200 Vortec BOV - unsure SDS EM4-6f - $12-1300 full 3" exhaust - $400 since it includes downpipe Just roundabout figures. I may be way off but, just some thoughts. Oh, and BTW, I'm interested in your T3/T4 if you do decide to break it up and sell it. Could ya tell? Good luck with either decision you make.

Oh sure 327, make me the guinea pig! ha. My buddy works for Detroit Diesel so i'm sure he can get some pressure switches. As a matter of fact, he's the one that put the thought in my head months ago! On Nicks Z, he's using the '75 (?) non EGR intake which had the cold start injector right after the throttle body, which we since removed and plated off. I wonder if we can use that as a supplementory "high boost" injector, activated by a hobbs? That would real easy to do and i think directly after the throttle body would be a good place to distribute fuel across the cylinders. Someone else has had to have to try this, hope they chime in. Guess i'll have to do my homework on what that cold start would spray with 40-50psi of fuel behind it. Yo - are you running them down to .028 with stock Z31 ignition? I was concerned about bringing them back to .038 when i did but if you think you're getting a complete burn down that low, then i guess i can cut him back a little more. Thanks guys.

525 - i couldn't tell you where the line is between retarding timing and increasing boost. I would think you gained a little bit of low-end responce by bumping your initial timing up to 20* but obviously lost a little on top by dropping the boost back a degree or so. 327 - No NITROUS! LOL. I'm not controlled enough to use that laughing gas and either is Nick! Z31EFI is def at the top of the list of possibilities. Cronic - Why do you doubt that stock spark is being blown out by the 50 running 18psi? With the plugs gapped at .042, we were getting mis-fires at high rpm/boost. Pulled the gap back to .038 and all is good. I would be concerned running a .028 gap that your getting a complete/efficient fuel burn. We're basically still working out the bugs on his build we finished about a month ago, and he keeps breaking stuff but, hopefully soon we'll get to the dyno. Shoot, i just want to get to the track! Maybe this Friday. I am going to have to disagree with you on the "retard timing/less power" issue, unless you're talking strictly of losing bottom end power. Retarding timing will make your off the line worse but, the benefit of running that much more boost on top overcomes that bottom end loss. Heck, once you're off the line and out of first, the R's are always up near 4k... who needs bottom end after the first 1/2 second anyway Just my opinion. I'm not sure what you meant when you said that "the less knock you have, the more timing will advance" since i'm not too familair with the DSM ignition systems. I don't run the knock sensors on either of our Z's as well because i just don't know to what degree they retard timing when sensing knock so, i just let it advance as much as wants too and keep my ears open Aren't we all worried about knock when running the L28ET to the limits of it's current build? We run 93 pump gas and keep the boost level as high as possible without ping. I also think the next purchase for his should be an FPR. It'll keep him safer on top end where i think he's leaning but the down side is that he'll be a bunch rich low to mid. 20 PSI on the stock T3??? Wow, i thought i was majorly exceeding the T3 by running 17psi! haha. I do like the sound of an extra injector or two and possibly have them activate by way of a pressure switch I just haven't really found a bunch of information on doing it. If you want to share some pics/info or your additional injectors, that would be appreciated. Thanks for all the replies and info.

First off, thanks for all the responses. Forrest - I've been thinking of going MSS for both our Z's for a bit but i still see most trying it having little issues and hate to have either Z off the road right now (nice weather ) for any long period of time. It is a good possibility though. Keep me posted on your progress. Thanks. Scottie - Isn't it common practice to push everything to edge, no matter if it's the lawn mower or your 500hp Z?? lol. I do understand what you mean and yes, we are exceeding any optimal performance that the stock ECU can deliver. If either of us come into a good chunk of change, we'll go aftermarket ECU. If i had the $350 for the LM-1, i think i'd save a bit more and just go completely tunable/programmable. We should be going to the dyno soon and for $100, you get an hour to pull as many times as you want and make any adjustments within the hour. That should allow us to dial in best we can for the time being. Not much to adjust but at least we'll know where we're at. Hey, I just thought of a great solution! Still have your Z? I'll buy yours and then not have to worry about any of this since you're all set up, and then some! lol. Although, i wouldn't get that sense of pride or acomplishment Thanks for the reply. 525 - Both Nick and i are running the ACT Clutch Modified Street Disc (NSD007S) So far, so good. Not sure of either of our HP but it seems to hook pretty good and is smooth. When i can chirp 4th at the track, that works for me I'm sure the Act modded PP helps the grip as well but i'm really not happy with the amount of throw it takes to disengage, with just about no free play. I had to change my slave to a different size just so i wouldn't have to go completey to the floor before it released and could shift. Same issue with Nicks 280. Just my thoughts on the PP/clutch issue. The MSD - the way to think of it is - it wont gain you performance, but it will allow it. Thanks. Joe - i'm saving all my "rags garage" time for my Z, not Nicks Appreciate the offer. Maybe i'll look into getting an O2 that works with the LM-1 and try it out. Is that all i'll need? We can use my laptop as well if needed. Thanks. BTW - your HG came in yesterday so we'll hook up soon. Yo - Thanks for chiming in. The Z31 ECU was my other option. Lately i've been thinking that this will get me to cartain point as well and hit a brick wall and need to upgrade again, but i do like the idea that it works much better than what we're running. Now you've got me thining about that again! ha. Thanks. Again, thanks for all the opinions, suggestions and knowledge. - Len

Hmmmm Joe, so... whach ya got in mind??? 525 - I was thinking the the BTM because of two reasons... 1 - he's blowing the spark out as it is and we needed to close the gap down to prevent this and 2 - he'll be able to bump the boost up a little more if timing was retarded by maybe 1deg per psi. I think the ADJ. FPR will be my first suggestion to him to cover the leaning on top issue. The fancy boost controller might be a little out of the price range right now and if he were to spend that kind of $, i think i'd have him save for aftermarket ECM and cover all basis. Both he and i are running the ACT clutch, not the puck type. Grabs like a mother%#@*Q$(% Sorry to hear about what happened. Hope you get it all fixed up. Thanks for your suggestions.

Thanks guys. I'm figuring the weight has got to be a big factor also but i still think his Z should outrun mine, if even just by a little. I'm not so good at reading compressor maps so i'm not sure at what boost level his T3/T4 will run out of breath but i'm thinking he still could get a few more psi out of it. Once we get a little more fuel on top by adjustable FPR and/or upgrade his ignition with something like a MSD BTM and can dial back total advance timing, then i think we can bump his boost up a little more and then he should be good. It's never enough i guess 327, I'm going to make his Z a bit faster than mine then he's on his own Then i can get back to my Z and then show him why it's good to be light Joe, i'm running 215/50/15's and Nicks got crappy 205/60/15's. Were both getting ready to order some 16's or 17's with 225/45 or 50's. Then we both need drag radials and get to the darn track! moneymoneymoney! You need to come and show us what a fast Z is like