Jersey

I.D of the stock turbo TB is just about 51mm or 2" and the O.D (below flange) is 57mm or 2.24" (use 2.25" pipe) You could use 2.5" pipe and get a silicone reducer at the TB or, what i did was weld a reducer from 2.5" to 2.25" between the IC outlet and TB inlet and then just use a piece of straight 2.25" silicone hose. Also remember, the T3 outlet (O.D.) mates up pretty well with a 2" pipe so you'll need to do some figuring on that end as well. Good luck and congrats.

Thanks for the info guys. Appreciate it.

My cousins destruction after a boost hit @ 18psi in 3rd gear (T3/T4 - 50trimE in a B shell, .63 stage III clipped, '78 280Z)...

Hey all. Does anyone know if the T5 out of the 84-86 300ZXT's are any different, inside and/or outside, than the T5's out of the 82-83ZXT's? My cousin just blew his '82 T5 and he picked up another but i think it's out of a 84-86ZXT. Just wondering if it'll bolt up to the L28. Thanks in advance.

Thanks John.

Hey all. I installed a set of custom springs on my 240 a while back but don't know their rates. I'm going to be replacing my struts soon so i was wondering if there was anyway to check the rates while they're out? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Doug. Appreciate it.

Hey all. I think i blew just about all 4 of the KYB's i'm running and i cant remember if i swapped in a set of 280 rear strut housings into my '73 240. I think the 280 strut housings are a little larger in diameter than the 240's but i dont have the exact dimensions or any others to compare them too. If anyone has a way to identify the 280's or 240's or know of a part # stamped on them, i'd appreciate the info. Thanks in advance.

I'm not sure about smoke on decel but my Z with the T3 is starting to blow a nice puff of smoke after sitting idle for a while, just like you descibed Drax. I'm hoping it's the seals as they aren't that bad to change as compared to swapping the T, and MUCH cheaper 2slo4U - this same exact senerio happened to my cousins Z we just got finished building about 3 months ago. Sent his P90A head out to a reputable engine builder to be completely cleaned, valve seats, guides,seals, shaved and the first time it came back, we flipped out because it was still greasy like nothing really had been done to it. So we sent it back a second time after talking to the owner and i think he made sure one of his "experienced" did the job this time and it came back the second time perfect... well, almost. We put the motor all together with a new T3/T4 and it ran perfect, for about 15 seconds until the turbo completely seized up (whole different story!) 2 weeks later, another new T3/T4 back on and ran good for about 2 weeks and started smoking just as ours is now. Initial reaction was "that POS t3/t4 is effed again" but after pulling the valve cover and staring at it all for a bit, I reached through the springs with a pick and noticed a bunch of the seals had slipped right off their seats and were riding up the stem shaft. We made a quick valve compression tool out of a long crow bar and pulled it all apart to find out the guy must have used his own seals or ones he had around the shop because they definetly were not the ones Nick gave to him and were much softer then what he gave the guy. Bought another set of seals (black and stiff like the first pair Nick purchased that were never installed, not the softer maroon ones we found that had popped off) snapped them all on, bolted it all back together and she runs clean as a whistle. I'm HOPING this is what's wrong with my Z and yours for that matter. I have about 120k on this original T3 and god knows i've been a little rough it. It just has to last a liitttttle longer to break me into the 11's though! lol. I'm on a quest Appreciate it if you would post if you figure out what's going on with your smoker and i'll do the same if i get a chance to spend a little time in the garage and change the seals. Good luck!

Hows your exhaust? I see in your signature - 2.5" SS Exhaust/DP - mandral bent? running a cat? which muffler? 2.5" all the way back? Just wondering if there's any restriction.

No sweat. I know what it was like when i was doing my swap. Just want it running! lol. I like my Walbro 255lph. We used the MSD 2225 in my cousins 280 and it seems to be fine, just a bit noisier and i've read in the past few days of a couple of failing. I like MSD, dont get me wrong, i just wanted to give you a heads up. Anyway, good luck and any more questions, just ask. These guys on the board are good

The smaller NPR that i ran i believe was only about 9" tall and helped me run a good amount more of boost so, it doesn't sound like it's going to be bad. I really dont think you can hurt performace with a smaller IC like that unless it has a lot of pressure drop across it. Now if it were real big, it could hurt you by creating lag which i don't think you'll have with what you've described.

I would think after a 5 minute easy cool down, the glow should be gone. If i press my T3 for a good run, she'll glow but it'll go away after a minute or so while idling. I dont know too much about the thermotec wrap your using but it sounds like your exhaust temps are a bit high. Do you know if your running lean on top? Could be the cause.

Sorry it took so long to get back to ya John. Not sure if you've got it all figured out but, i pulled out some notes and the FSM. You have 4 wires going to the fuel pump relay - Green, White/Black, Black and Blue/Red. Green - 12v output from the relay and suppies the fuel pump and air regulator, which is why you found it split. White/Black - 12v relay supply wire. Hot at all times. This ties in with the Brown fusable link wire that directly connects to the battery through a fusable link (or fuse if you eliminated the pita fusable links) and also supplies the Ignition with 12v constant. Black - Ground. This ties in with a bunch of grounds (EFI relay, pins 109, 107, 112, 113 off the ECM) and also connects to a yellow/blue that went to the speed sensor on the ZXT. You could just gound this right near the relay if it's easier. Blue/Red - 12v relay trip wire. Goes to pin 16 on the 2x10 ECM plug. Back at the pump, you connect the green to the pump positive, cut the Black with the shield and ground them back near the pump. By grounding these, you will be eliminating the fuel pump modulator. In the FSM, it states the modulator controls the voltage to the pump by monitoring varies conditions like rpm, HTS and injectors, and reduces the voltage to the pump when these sensors are aren't calling for a lot of fuel which quiets the pump and reduces power consumption of the pump. I'm not exactly sure how it does this through the ground wire (resistance i'm assuming) but i wanted full voltage to my pump at all times, so i just eliminated it. You can do it whatever way you think is best and i can get you the wiring on the modulator if you need it. Any other suggestions...ummm... why your back there wiring the pump, why not through a higher pressure pump in, like the Walbro or MSD? I'm not sure of your HP goals but if you like lots of boost this is going to be needed to be upgraded at sometime. Just a thought. Good luck. Hope this long winded post helped some. Someday i'll have the entire wiring crossover posted. Just need TIME!

Hey John. I sent you an email with a schematic. Hopefully this will help you out a little. Suggestion on the fuel pump wiring - ground the fuel pump to the chassis right near it, and run a new thicker gauge wire to your pump from the relay. Also, another suggestion, eliminate the fuel pump modulator. You will be doing this anyhow if you take the ground and new feed wire suggestion i made. If i get a some time this weekend, i'll dig up some technotes i made when wiring the relays and post them. Sorry i couldn't be more of a help at the moment.

My decision Gabe was basically not to go with the the wing i asked about. I do like the way your spoiler looks best, in my opinion. The one i posted about is a little to layed back for me i think and i'm looking for something more straight up, that kind of compliments the flat back tailight panel, again, like yours does. I also do like how it looks molded into the fenders but i'm just not sure if i want to go that route. So, my decision was... not to make any decision right now Thanks for everyones input.

That makes total sense to me, by using percentages the way you did. I hope someone that has tested this both ways or a "themo guru" will chime in. I'd love to find out that i can cool the intake temp more just by fabbing up some new pipe. Funny, you mention that it might be easier your way but, one of the reasons i did it my way was for ease. lol. Reason being, I have my air filter out front which runs through the rad support right below the IC to TB charge pipe. It'll pretty much get in the way if i do change the IC piping up but i'd like to keep it where it's at out front, catching cooler air. I was talking to ScottyMIZT a week or so ago and i think with his air filter in the bay, he was reading something like 170deg's going INTO his T3! BTW - great looking clean engine bay drax. After posting my pic i thought "WHAT A MESS!" And boy, i need to find a non-egr intake. They just look so much cleaner. Big Jim, sorry, didn't mean to hijack your post. Maybe we should start another? Admin???

Now i have another question for ya Drax (because i was contemplating which way to do my IC pipes, which ended up opposite of you) With your setup, doesn't the air get heated up when crossing the radiator just the same? I just figured it would be basically the same end result... Lets say (just easy #'s here) 200deg out of the turbo, IC pipe cuts across the rad which raises temp another 100deg, IC cools it 100deg = 200deg to the intake or with the IC pipes routed opposite: 200deg out of turbo, IC cools it 100deg, IC pipe cuts across the rad which raises temp 100deg = 200deg to the intake Just curious if you or anyone has done this both ways and measured intake temp differences?

Guys, thanks. Helped me make my decision. Appreciate it.

The way i learned drftn was holding a flashlight like you mentioned from about the age of 6 up until i was old enough to be trusted with the wrenches myself so, learn as you watch, and learn as you go. If you take it apart, look at it, figure out how it works and what it does, then put it back together. I still do that all the time with all kinds of things at age 36. Ask questions Viola, this is what these boards are for but do try and search out what you can first like you said. One of the best ways to learn right now for both of you is to keep getting your hands dirty. It'll all make sense, piece by piece. Your on the right track Viola and it seems by your signature, you've got one heck of a start! And sorry, i'm on the other side in NJ. Good luck and HAVE PATIENCE! You'll get it

Hey guys. I'm trying to decide wether i want to go with the MSA 50-1573 rear spoiler or not. If you happen to be running this one and have a good pic or 2 of the rear of your Z, please post them. Also, opinions on this style are welcome. Thanks. Here's a pic from MSA's site...

How are you guys cleaning the connectors? Sounds odd that it only takes 2 weeks for the problem to arise again. I'll keep thinking.

If you're blowing off the 1" hose that the DSM BOV recirculates it's air back into the hose between the AFM and turbo, try this: Take the hose off of the BOV, plug the hose, then go for a ride. You say it's blowing off before lifting your foot off the pedal to shift so, bring it up to whatever boost level you think your running and see what happens. If it's leaking, you'll definetly feel it since it'll create a major rich mixture and cause it to stumble. Also, where do you have the BOV reference port connected? If you determine it is leaking at the boost levels you are running, you can probably crush it which will allow it to hold more boost pressure. I had my cousin just buy the TurboXS HP BOV which seems to be working good and it can be recirculated easily if you wanted to. Just a suggestion. One more thing, i would get at least a boost gauge to see where you're at. No wires for anyone to mess up, just one plasic hose that runs to your intake manifold. Good luck.

How much is a new Z06, unmodifed?

My daily driver to date cost me a total of about $3500 which includes the '82ZXT donor and $1000 rims/tires I haven't done anything to the motor except clean it and paint the block. Actually, there's about 100k miles on it and neither the head or oil pan have been removed since it was built... yet. I do love the vette's and their torque. I used to do high-end audio/video in high priced cars years back and i always took them for a "test ride" The ferrari's, NSX's, Porche's, lotus's were all awesome, fast cars but i loved to get into a vette and just get on it off the bottom. None of the others had that bottom pull. I've have raced about 3 of them so far and their owners do have a very funny look on their face when they catch up Off the line it's hard to keep them from getting a jump (with a 5sp anyway) but once you spool... The last guy made me pull over because he bet me i didn't have a 6cyl...so... i won twice that time I couldn't tell ya if they were a Z06's or regular newer vette's that i ran because it usually just happens real fast and it's over but, it sounds like i was running the "normal" ones. All in good fun. Determination is going to beat a Z06. If they're running low 12's, the L28 can be right there with it, and then some. These guys here on the board are doing it. And Rick, well... he just crushes 'em