Jersey

So even with the DR's Sleeper, she still spins like crazy if you let the clutch fly, huh? Guess i'm just going to really have to go back to the track and find out what happens. You probably have much more HP than me so maybe i'll be ok. Thanks for the props in the other post BTW. So Dragonfly, you were just trying to psych me out me before i went to the track, eh? Nice. Note to self: dont take Dragonfly's advice

Thanks 525. Moby. I ran that 12.47, a 12.49, 12.5, 12.55 and a 12.86... i missed the 3rd to 4th shift on the 12.86 run LOL. I think it's all about the launch right now and i think i could pull some low 12's. The only thing i changed was that i used DR's. They helped me hook at the line and between 1 & 2 shift and the height (26") put me in a good RPM range for my setup.

Thanks Dot & EZ. I think the server's bandwidth is being soaked which is causing some issues. If you having problems, right-click on the link and choose "Save Target As..." and save it to your hard drive, then you should be fine. Sorry guys it's a PITA.

Thanks John.

Thanks Gabe. Try it again, should be fine now.

Video - CLICK HERE

Thanks much for the props guys. Stock L28et, P90, T3, ECU. I'll get the slip and video up in the morning from work. I think that may be the reason i'm not cutting those real low 60' times Z-Gad, because i know if i really let the clutch fly, stuff is going to start snapping and i drive the Z to the track. I should really bring my trailer but, i just cant get myself to trailer my daily driver. Guess thats the next step and just let that clutch rip, huh? lol. Gabe - my cousin couldn't make it - his wife gave birth to their third that morning! I swear she'll do anything to keep him from going to the track lol. So many people came by to check the car out, it was funny. A lot of the younger guys really had no idea what kind of car it was because you just dont see the older Z's on the road here in Jersey. It was fun. Thanks again guys.

I tried it first at 3500rpm and she bogged Then i raised it to around 4k which seemed better then i tried a little higher, around 4300 and it seemed good. I didn't just drop the clutch though. I kind of slipped it a little bit. Guess i was worried a little that i would snap something if i just popped it with the traction i was getting. Should i looking to get 1.7 60's with the 5sp?

12.47 @ 111mph. Exhausted (1am) Awesome hookup with the DR's at 20psi which I could barely spin to heat 'em up. Perfect size for my setup but i could only pull a 1.9 60'. I think i can get 1.8-1.7 with some work but, i have no idea how you guys are pulling 1.3-1.6 60' times unless you're automatics and can build boost at launch. I figured out i really only needed to spin them a little just to wipe them off and they were good to go. Humidity was near 90% tonight which i'm sure the T3 didn't like very much. I have video and the timeslip which i'll post soon. Thanks for all the info guys. Very fun night. Any of you want to see how much your Z is admired, bring it to Jersey. They were so curious tonight

Thanks. That helps. Leaving now. Wish me luck!

Hey all. So i broke down and bought a set of BFG DR's 235/60/15's and slapped them on a pair of turbo rims (thanks Rags) yesterday. They are about the widest i can go with coils and not rolling the fender. The 26" height should put me right were i want to be in the RPM range through the trap with the T5 and 3.54. Any of you fast guys with some launching experience on these? How much should i heat 'em up? These things are sticky. Hope to get a good 60' and put this thing in the solid mid 12's tonight! Hoping anyway. Running the stock T3 at about 17psi. My compression readings are about 162 across all 6 so i think i have a little more torque than standard, if that info helps for suggestions. Wish i could load the T3 up a bit on boost at launch time but with the T5 and not stong enough E-brake to hold me back, there's really no way. Any tips would be appreciated.

No prob. Hope it all works out good.

I haven't taken it too the dyno yet but, hopefully soon. The 2.5" DP is a great improvement over the stock 90deg cast DP, in my opinion. I don't have any #'s to compare between the two but, it really seemed to allow the T3 to breath much easier. No bottom end lost that i can tell. All gains. I like the MSD unit. I can spead the gap a little more on my plugs which creates a better burn and it seemed to clear up a little miss i had, which i didn't really know i had until i installed the MSD. I think if your thowing a lot of air and fuel around, a stong spark is a good idea.

'73 240 '82 L28ET T5 3.54 stock T3 stock ecu 370cc injectors NPR IC MSD 6A MSD FPR Warlbro 255lph pump 2.5" DP 3" madral exhaust electric fan DSM BOV ACT PP/clutch 215/50/15 17lbs boost

Plug looks good but a little white to me from the pic which would suggest lean, timing advanced too far and/or too hot of a plug. Which plugs are you using and at what gap? Do you have an onboard fuel pressure gauge that you can watch while running? If not, you may want to TEMPORARILY T tap one of your fuel lines between your filter and FMU, run it out from under hood to a pressure gauge and tape it to the windshield for a test run or two. It's best to do this with someone else in the car that can watch it and compare it with your boost gauge while you drive. Just a thought. And before i get bashed, no, it's not safe to drive around for a long period of time like this but, it's a pretty simple and inexpensive way to tell if fuel pressure is staying up with your boost. If your running 45lbs of fuel pressure with no vacuum attached to the FMU, you should be near 60psi @ 14-15lbs of boost. Should be near a 1 to 1 ratio.

Your timing sounds good. You mentioned you just installed an IC. Did you pipe in a BOV? If so, is it vented to atmosphere? It could be leaking at idle causing your (HC) headache Just throwing ideas around.

What's you timing set at and vacuum reading? The AFM is a real pita in my opinion but, i did get it adjusted to run my cuz's Z with a T3/T4 pretty fairly good thoughout the rpm range so i would think you'd be able to do the same with your similar setup. When you lean the AFM out (tightening the spring - clockwise) can you raise the throttle plate stop screw to raise the idle and get it steady or does it lope? No problem with the way you mounted the AFM.

Thanks for all the info guys. I understand about the inline dropping resistors for my 370svo injectors, no problem. So, with all that you've suggested, the NA ECU is probably the way to go because it will be easiest/cheapest because both ECU's will need re-mapping anyway and you wont need to change out the O2. I thought the easiest/cheapest way out was to use the turbo ECU since it was already set up for boost timing and bigger injectors (thought the turbo Z31's ran bigger injectors?) and wouldn't need to be reburned, just a new O2. Not so i guess. Does the Z31 MAF cause any problems after a chip burn or cause a certain limitation to your build? Just wondeing because of your statement Yo about the cobra MAF. I see when you go the JWT way, this is what they use and was just wondering the difference, if just not it's size. Once again, thanks guys. Learning something new every day. This is good

I've read all the posts that i could find, including Afshins great write up and received great info from FL327 but, of course, i still have a couple of questions. I have access to both a '88 NA ECU and an '88 Turbo ECU for the same price. Here's what i "think" i understand so far - they're both 16 bit; I'll need to have the NA ECU remapped to adjust for timing and my 370's; I'd need to use a Titania type O2 with the Turbo ECU which would require me to weld a new bung on my DP. Here's what i'm unsure about... If i went with the Z31 turbo ECU, would i need to have it re-mapped for my 370's and timing.. or anything else for that matter? Can the Turbo ECU be remapped? (maybe should have asked this first ) I'm thinking of replacing my O2 to interface with the LM-1. Are there any Titania type O2's that i can use for both the turbo ecu and the LM-1 if i choose the turbo ecu? If so, suggestions on which? Does it matter what year, make or model 84-89 MAF & chopper wheel i get for either ECU or are they all the same? When the NA code is altered, how much does the timing get retarded per LB of boost? And, is this amount the same as the non-altered turbo ECU? What's your opinion on my best choice? Sorry if all these questions have been answered in some post somewhere. Appreciate it in advance for any suggestions.

I blew up you dyno sheet but as much as i can read of it, it doesn't tell me what trans you're running, tire height, shift RPM, boost response/recovery or your timing. All these things can have a major effect on how your Z is going to accelerate. Maybe one of these other guys can figure out what's up with your Z by your sheet. Sorry i can't be more of a help with the info you've posted Datsunun.

Thanks for the clarification on what it came off of Kenny. I didn't get any open/close between any two contacts, just different values at different throttle positions on two of the pins. I guess the resistance value at rest is so low (something like .2k ohms) the stock ECU reads this as a close. The stock Z linkage does fit on this one. I just went outside and double-checked, swapped linkages and took a pic. Guess i should just leave it like this...

Even when they get fast, they STILL aint fast enough Quick couple of questions - What trans? What's your tire height? What rpm are you shifting at? Does boost build quick? At what RPM does boost hit at? Does it go right back to the same boost level after shifting? What's your timing set at? Something does sound a little off. If you can find out more about the T3/T4, that may be your answer. Keep us posted.

I have an extra 60mm TB that i was going to put up on ebay if your interested. I received two at one time and this one has a Potentiometer type TPS on it and since i decided to stay with stock ECU for now, i'm going to use the other that has the open/close type TPS. If your going to use aftermarket electronics, i believe you could use this just as it is. Otherwise, you'd have to swap it out with an open/close type TPS that the stock ZXT ECU needs to see. It is a Nissan unit, not Hitachi, non cruise control and i belive it's from a '89 240sx. That's what i was told anyway when i bought it. Just a thought. I'll post a pic, even if it's just for reference so you know what to look for. Good luck.

Good luck Hoke. Heat 'em up nice and toasty for a good launch!

Sorry, but i missed what year Z your running? If i REALLLY sqwink , it looks like you turned a 2.117 60ft? About a week or so ago, i ran a 2.118 (these are pretty slow 60's) but did pull a 8.48 @ 88.5mph and a 12.8 @ 112mph. With the amount of upgrades you did, you should be smoking my times. Then again, i don't know what the weight of your Z is and you said you're running a T3/T4? What configuration? It may be that it takes your T a little bit to spool causing your slower 1/8 track time. It may really come alive after that and still get into the 12's. Still, noce pull and nice runs.