Jersey

Vacuum/pressure hose come off the FPR? Filter clogged? Something partially lodged in the inlet/outlet of the new pump, restricting partial flow? Just shooting out ideas...

Took a quick pic this morning of what the medium sized NPR looks like installed in my '73, just for reference. Please, pay no attention to the rest of the front end - she's still a bit bruised from the meeting with the median lol.

Thanks John for the insight. I'll see what rubber bushings i can put in there the next time i remove the IC.

This is my setup i had with the smaller NPR IC. Mine was mounted solid as well LJ. The large NPR IC i have in there now is mounted exactly the same. Just have to "massage" the radiator a bit because it's tight. I'll get a measurement between the end tanks if you need tomorrow.

The Yell/Wht wire going to the ignitor should never go to the neg side of the battery. It's the signal wire coming from the ECM, 20 pin molex, pin #5. Also, not sure how much _____ is because my screen resolution may be different than yours and honestly, i'm really not even sure what you're talking about but, the starter should be tight against the bellhousing. Your battery may be dying which is not allowing the starter to spin up fast enough to engage with the flywheel. Good luck.

Guess i'm helping FL327 on this thread since jtmny1999 hasn't responded on to whats going on. O'well. Anyway, not sure what year your working with FL but, if it's an older Z, it had two black/whites. One supplied 12v while cranking and the other supplied 12v while in the RUN position. The one Blk/Wht which supplied 12v while cranking went directly to the coil. The other Blk/Wht that supplied 12v in the RUN position went to a ceramic ballast resistor which dropped voltage down to 8-9v which supplied the coil and protected the points. The coil and ignitor should see 12v during crank and RUN if your not using a points setup.

Ok, i've just thought of another idea - is there 12v on the black/white WHILE cranking? If not, she'll never fire. There should be 12v in RUN and START (or crank) position.

You should have a black w/white and a yellow w/white running to a "T" connector that plugs into your ignitor. The Black/white should be ignition and the Yell/white is the signal wire that comes from the ECM, 20 pin molex, pin #5. Coming OUT of the ignitor is a blue and a black/white - blue goes to the negetive side of the coil and black/white goes to the positive side. Maybe it's something simple as, when you hooked them incorrectly to the battery, you blew a fuse that supplied power to the black/white going to the ignitor. I'd start checking for 12v+ there if you're wired the way i descibed. Hope this helps. Re-post if you need more help. Good luck.

Glad to hear she's back on the road 525. Congrats.

ahhh... understand now Terry. Appreciate the explaination. Italian head is thick sometimes I pretty much solved it last night. I put my front swaybar in and cranked it down which doesn't allow the front suspension to drop as far and it keeps the springs in their perches snug when at full droop, so i think i'm good. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone that made suggestions and took the time to help. Appreciate it.

Here's a pic comparing the Eibachs (on left) and two different length custom springs with the same spring rate. The black ones on the right are the ones that i'm installing which give me the correct ride height (they level out the Z with leaving the Eibachs in the rear) Thanks Tim for the search. Now i see what you mean but i think i'd need to cut the springs if i used something like that to get me back to the level stance i'm looking for. Appreciate it.

Thanks Jon but...I may catch a little air and i'd like to come down in semi-control They only drop the Z about 1.5" but, they are short becuase they are stiff. Not sure if that made sense? lol. I have a pic of them in comparison to the Eichachs... i'll try and post here in a little bit. The reason i'm noticing this is because when i jack the front off the ground with the front suspension at full droop, the springs are flapping in the breeze and fall off their perches, wether it be the bottoms or tops, or both. Now i figure if this just happens to re-create itself while actually moving at a good clip, i may have a little bit of a problem. Just trying to play it safe. If i zip tie or saftey wire the tops, the bottoms are going to come off their perches or the bearing on top of the top plate may shift and not line back up when it all gets compressed again which would destroy the bearing instantly.

Thanks Tim. I'll do the same.

THANKS for all the ideas/suggestions. You guys are good RC - that sounds good to hold the tops of the springs to the top hats but, then the top hats woud seperate from the bearing and strut tower mount thats above the top hats and if they didn't seperate, the bottoms of the springs would lift off their perches causing the same issue. jmortensen - if i re-weld the bottom perch higher, it will take up the space so the spring fits snug with the suspension collapsed but, it will also make the front sit higher, which i'm not looking to do. With the shorter, stiffer springs installed, the ride height is just about where i want it.... about 1 1/2" dropped. These springs are short but stiffer then what my Eibachs were with full weight on them. The Eibachs were just bottoming out and only on hard hits. These custom springs will not bottom, even as short as they are. blueovalz - The dampers will not allow the suspension to droop as much? I thought these were only to soften the blow to your strut tower and protect the strut from damage if you do ever bottom? Can you explain more? Tim240z - these "helper" springs... do they make the ride height any higher then if you didn't have them installed? Might be what i'm looking for. The only ways I can think to solve this is, if the helper springs that Tim mentioned would not effect the desired ride height and are available for my size spring or to somehow limit the amount of the suspension drop with no load on i... possibly modifying the A-arm or get different spings that are longer, a little stiffer than the Eibachs when compressed and give me the desired ride height i want. Since i have the springs already, i'm trying to stay away for the last option and save some $ Gotta be a way... Thanks again for all the responces. Appreciate it and welcome any more idea/opinions/suggestions.

Hey all. Thinking of swapping out my front Eibachs with a pair of custom springs on my '73. The customs are stiffer than the Eibachs, which i why i want to do the swap but, they springs is much shorter. When i jack the front end off the ground, the springs can basically fall out of their perches which has me concerned like, what if i'm moving at a good clip and hit a rise in the pavement which causes the front to lift off the ground slightly... now i've got to hope those springs fall back on their perches correctly or it's going to be a tough landing, huh? I'm sure i'm not the first to have run into this and wondered what you guys did, or didn't do Thanks in advance.

John, i have the 1G DSM BOV as well and having problems with it. Mine will hold boost, without being crushed, when boost is climbing. It seems anytime i let off the throttle lightly when there's a good load on the motor, it strats to leak a bit. Sometimes i have to let off the pedal hard and then get on the throttle to re-seat it. Glad i'm running it vented to atmosphere because i would have never known it was doing this otherwise. NOt sure if this has anything to do with your problem, just figured i'd pass it along. Here's a site with a little info - http://www.jakelatham.com/1gdsm/projects/dejon_bov/index.shtml

Got it 525. I thought this was like the 3rd head gasket that's went on you and you were the one re-instaling the head each time. Got my fingers crossed for ya that all goes well this time around.

525 - I posted this a few days ago but it somehow seems to be gone? Anyway, not sure if you replied but, i just had a few questions... 1. What's the final torque lb setting are you putting on the head bolts? 2. How many steps are you taking before you get to this final torque? 3. What tightening sequence are you using?

Glad to hear it's all working out for ya 525 and you decided to battle it.

The last time i was at the track, i ran 110mph through the trap also. Stock T3 & electronics, small NPR IC, 370cc injectors, 45deg DP, 3" exhaust on pump 93. Tires were sliding through 1st and 2nd as well. I just put in the medium sized NPR IC and plan on getting a set of DR's or slicks before i go back to the track in a month or so because it seems worthless to build the Z anymore until i can get what HP she has now, down to the pavement. My clutch will only last so long by sliding the heck out of it to get some kind of traction out of the hole! lol. I will be strapping her to a dyno within the next few months as well and will let you know what she turns.

525 - they're in home depot and are only like $7. Look in the section for water pressure tanks. You'll have to buy a T and 2 barbed fittings so you can put it inline between the filter and hardline, that's why it ends up being around $10. They're brass internals witch will not be affected by fuel.

Austin, nice work. Looks great! Quick question - it looks like you have the stock FPR mounted to the front of the motor, up near the valve cover - if it is the stock FPR, is it inline before the fuel rail? Just curious. Thanks and props.

You should have been able to run 10 like you said without detonation. I'm not sure what your setup is but, i would make sure your boost gauge is correct and also find out what's happening to your fuel pressure in boost situations. Hopefully the injectors are fine.

Nathan, i couldn't agree more. My T5 shifts great through all gears. When i installed it, i used the shifter out of a mustang T5 with the rubber bushings. I hear the aftermarkets like you mentioned are even better. I have nothing against the Nissan trannies, i just blew through 3-4 of them with my first Z so i decided to go T5 with this one. It's been holding up great so far. I also like the look of it in the schematic when it breaks it down. Looks to be much beafier than the Nissan tranny. Just my opinion.

1 - I used the swept back crossmember of of the ZXT donor as Sleeper mentioned and welded new ears on the mount to move holes foward about 3/4 inch. Also slotted the T5 tranny like moby mentioned. 2 - You don't NEED a new rear but the R200 is stronger than the R180 and, to take it one step further, CV's are even stronger. Driveshaft out of the '82ZXT donor fit fine in my '73. 3 - I am determined to hit 11's with stock ECM this year. If i had $, I'd go aftermarket. You get to a point in the build where you exceed the limits of the stock ECM. Depends on your build.