manninen

Old z's dash wiring aint that strong. I have relayed my headlights almost first thing after bought this car. I have usb charger/volt meter hard wired to lighter socket and driving on rain wiper and blower maxed dash voltage drops below 13volts. Today i kia swapped blower motor and did some measuring, stock blower draws 93watts and kia takes 180watts, theres not much change between 2 and 3 speeds. I think long term kia motor will melt fan switch my guess. Next thing im gonna re wire wipers and blower on their own relays. Original wiring has only couple lightbulbs to run, it can handle that.

has anyone modify/delete this part of engine bay, i could need some space there

https://i.imgur.com/lmqt4nR.jpeg oh dear, every other year i have to swap stock control arms for MOT. this time i fck it up, threaded nut went loose inside body from that bolt, anyone had to cut open body from inside to weld nut back in? and oil leak is still present

Look how much rear axle lives on this thing! wow, those control arms has heim joints. must be cause shorter than stock pivot points? dont fix it if aint broken! your multi-link axle is safe bet

Any updates here?

https://i.imgur.com/YNeowqG.jpg yeah, cracked weld. pain to find! held 8bar of air but 4bar of oil leaked thru

weight those te37´s please. https://www.braid-wheels.com/img/product/512-512-ESCALA/forged_i.png There is braid forged i which i think is same weight range and you can get them your own specs. 1000$ each

found cheap motec rims wheel weights with tyre 16.9kg (185R 14" 12.7kg) bit tight clearence to spring plate but seems to be enough. Big oil leak on pressure side of oil pan, unfortunately i have to do it again, maybe weld has cracked

That airdam reminds me callaway corvette.

https://i.imgur.com/zTNvmjO.jpg replaced my flat steering wheel to deep one, ergonomy seems much better now. https://i.imgur.com/1kzvThz.jpg https://www.motec-wheels.de/images/motec/motorsport/produkte/MCRY/detail/MCRY-6516-weiss-schr.png got cheap 215/60R15 tyres, im looking if used ET15 motec rims pop up for sale i might put those under Z

https://i.imgur.com/zvTZsoE.jpg as i have occasional steering wheel shimmying, im running stock bushing. i have full PU bushing kit. Is this 100% safe way to try if shimmy comes from soft bushings?with stock bushings compression rod moves really nice, pu on fron rubber rear, pu bushing moves a bit on its place and makes some noise on rod moving. whats your thoughts? im thinking just try lil bit harder rubber bushing on front, maybe some other brand oem bushing

Here is my oil pump, this thing is heavy! i could get huge weight savings using aluminium oilpan and singlestage automotive pump, but this has support bearing and doesnt seems to care little higher rpms.

i did custom engine support bar today, i oil pan leaks that much i have to fix it. maybe i have to do new carrier for external oil pump too, real drysump would be nice as well but theres no room for those things. Last week i was on vacation with Z, 640km, no issues.

these ride very nice, except 2 of these hankook tyre aint round. i dont have good luck with tyres. i need to stop ordering tyres online. i took couple full throttle runs, 185 tyre burns so easily, i had to tightened rear lug nuts after. 5 lug hubs might be good idea as well.

https://xfelgi.pl/tomason-tn1-45x14-4x1143-et10 In finland we have mopedcars, one cylinder diesels so youngsters can drive them with moped driving licence. Found mopedcar rims 4x114.3 et10, its direct fit to rear axle, front needs to turn lil bit larger. but guys, 100€ for wheels which weight 4.5kg!! that polish site says wheel is rated 580kg. hope its true. 100€ cheap price for own death

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/kyKNIlYgUjI/maxresdefault.jpg im so tempted to try these tyres, probably would ruin ride quality

Summer getting here, took it on drive after modifications and smaller rear brakes seems much better, braking on a corner rear stays stable. these 185 width tyres doesnt have much grip on full abs braking but ride is nice for 240z.

I have to drive more now downsized rear brakes. Before it felt like rear already started to bite and front were still closing gap away from pads. Maybe 1" on front and 23.8mm to rear master would help. I have new rotors on front, zero wobble. That doesnt mean they are straight

rear brakes done, i really dont like brake pedal feel of 240z, i think opposed piston calipers on front does it, they need so much pedal travel. im thinking to try E36 316i calipers on front, it is single piston 54mm floating caliper. i dont know if it can be fitted on stock size disc, at least very ugly adapter is needed

White Z with black og steelies looks so good

https://i.imgur.com/9acMc4A.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/HieVggC.jpg Mitsubishi pad is tight fit to ford disc but its there. Parking brake cable needs to be tightened and brake hose to be longer. Looks like quite easy swap.

my brake bias is bit off, rear is too strong. now i have tilton valve for rear which does its job under heavy braking but doesnt do much on light braking. My rear calipers are ford 43mm, im gonna try mitsubishi 34mm and take pressure limiting away from rear line. with abs, pedal feels odd with limiting

this is been on my mind. At the moment im making oil pump mount more secure, for the future maybe relocate oil filter and modify my oilpan. Opened my differential, not too bad but needs new friction plates. Here´s some straight 6 turbo smokers for you guys

Today i changed 2.65 open diff, im opening my 2.79 limited slip to rebuild it. Car works great. Seems team boosted wrecked their diesel 240z

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fg_g0yjzJD8 Noticed Team Boosted is swapping OM606 as well, and comments say some guy has swapped as well. i hope that OM648 rear sump fits, my dry sump has half the height of that thing and clearence is very small.