manninen

This type of parts looks best swap before changing whole rear axle to something else, S13 ,S14, R32 or even something else. My fragile parts has been fine cause automatic transmission, Small case bmw diff can be broke even stock 4-cylinder bmw engine with manual transmission. Started wiring abs so they are 80% done damn shieet, that barra looks similar to OM606. CLEAN!!

Any alignment sheet to show? kpi's and casters etc.

I might not even have as much movement as this car has

Ookkay... mod is done and what i´ve notice this link angle that turning wheel binds sway bar a little. Turning wheels right, right side tyre goes slightly up and left side goes slightly down (sway bar movement such as you´re cornering left) not 100% happy about it but glad it´s not other way around. But i don´t know what it does to steering, driving over bump it might give some steering input, dont know it yet. When putting car first time sideways i know if i have to put it back to stock or trying that shortened 18mm bar with better link angles

https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=38918 Just searching how they do rear axle/diff on these monsters.

260z 2+2 swaybars are in, raving about shortened 18mm front bar on other thread but won´t do by now, reason clearance to alternator. 18mm 20mm but i think im good with these 20mm´s. Front being heavier than stock 2+2 and added caster causing more roll sensitivity, added stiffness moving sway bar link from control arm to strut might level those two factors. Found out my front struts are KYB excel-g and springs are stock US A/T springs

Sure it´s 2-way force, hit a bump sway bar tries to lever that force, thats why strong bars give more rough ride. And path of that force you can see above

Lower ball joint and sway bar links is stressed at stock mounting and only sway bar links are stressed on strut mounting. And everybody knows factory links last life time but are cushy without PU bushings, ball joint links are more rigid but wont last long. Sway bar mounting points on frame rails stress as stock 18mm Choose your path

I dont know how much those discs can take heat for track use but i could take those on light street use.

18mm sway bar 2.5kg 20mm sway bar 3kg, lighter than i thought thing is those tabs on strut forward link mounting point 25-30mm, link has some angle if its gonna be hooked straight to stock sway bar. So... to get that angle straight here is shortened 18mm sway bar.

With euro struts links would be longer, my car is us model. Sway bar tabs are hard/impossible with coil over threads. Twisted46: weight reduction mostly, id liked to know 18, 20 and 1" weights edit: 18mm front swaybar weight 2.5kg realized another thing what i can do, more later

https://www.ebay.de/ulk/itm/202366803298?ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F0%2F0%2F0%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.de%252Fulk%252Fitm%252F202366803298%26rvr_id%3D0%26rvr_ts%3Dedcabec516f0acc161a17d30ffef0c28 Sorry about url, inner fenders are easy to get in finland cause they still make them

That amount of rust that it could be svensksåld and whole lifetime commuted in south sweden

Took luisi versilia from ebay, combo is actually 500g lighter than factory wheel, happy about that. It´s bit flexy, i have sent message to luisi volanti if it´s genuine or not. I really wanted hand spots to be higher than 3 and 9 o´clock, and no suede.

rear abs stuff done, 0.5mm air gap and theres output on oscilloscope. will it work? i hope

Would not call it a problem, its just finding best driving character for you. Could even be 20mm bar to strut same as 1" bar to apex control arm second softest spot. Me having 18mm and 20mm bars i have 4 different swaybar settings on front

i might have to talk with machine shop about custom hubs sometime. extra 30mm for geometry to take 45ET rims and hub centric desing. Again rear axle gives me headache ce28n 15x6 for integra DC2 racing is 5kg rim.

At this point i wont use those cause price and longevity and i find that shape of link best for this mod at this point. Gaining weight again with this mod

Some ripping on right side PU bushing too 280z must have different parts cause they are so much heavier? Techno toy tuning arms weight 2kg more than early 240z part?

Just measured i need 190mm swaybar link, i know MOT guys might not like cutted and welded link but its 10min job to attach sway bar to factory points for MOT. im doing this mod https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E30-E36-sway-bar-strut-mount-weld-brackets/253877569934?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 But again i have to criticise these parts, look how much you lose to leverage. you can only get softer with these parts But for the effectiveness to leverage to bmw it´s about +2mm (18mm bar acts as 20mm bar) but cause 240z sway bar mount is closer to lower ball joint im guessing +1mm for effectiveness Quick google to 190mm sway bar link says crown vic link might fit, thats not cheap find in Finland https://www.ebay.com/itm/165mm-210mm-Ball-Joint-Adjustable-Roll-Sway-Bar-End-Link-For-Lexus-Toyota-Nissan/264294647769?hash=item3d893047d9:g:Fd4AAOSwGhFcvW8f These are easiest. But citroen parts are 5€ each, just need to cut and weld

How much lighter to mine is your alloy hub with that subaru ring. (i got bearings, washer and center nut included)

Bmw E30 M3 went sway bar to strut from normal E30 sway bar to control arm for more efficient leverage, M3 uses lighter and thinner front sway bar. Anyone weld tab to strut? I made quick look and it sure does doable to early S30

https://www.silverminemotors.com/sway-bar-kit-for-240z-260z-280z choose that which has same shape.

Ring is larger so minimum took from hub and adapter fitted

If stock abs unit is used i would/will use sensors/rings from that car. Not with scope but multi meter reads ac, atleast somehing is coming out. Air cap seems quite small. Front aint problem but rear is more difficult