manninen

drive shaft angle

taking few measurement

arm is getting better so i could file some holes. on frame those M10 which supposed to be 68mm spacing i got 67mm. i watercutted both spacing so i have to put them to frame and measure few things. maybe cannot perform that just yet. This part weights 1640g, mustache bar with bushings were 3.2kg. i dont know how much heavier this ends up when its finished.

got this over month waiting, but snapped my arm today so maybe 2 month pause from everything.

Yeah, doesnt help when large swaybar is hooked up those. Material needs to be chosen right at least

Those pics i have seen before. Sure i believe you about those to be broken. Just wanted to see one, was it that 4mm transverse link plate to crack or 10mm bolts ripped thru from body?

If one side goes other side will follow. Its possible if theres loose bolt some of those 8 bolts. Maybe if someone post picture broken one i lower my 100% it will last rate to 99% But yeah, im changing these

Any pictures how they go?

That flex on rear might be from bushing, i dont think that moustache bar to transverse link support change a thing. Only helps if you drift mad with wide tyres. I have incoming watercut part which replaces transverse links and moustache bar to one part and uses same hooking points. Other post its said catastrofic failure, havent heard none of stock tranverselinks ripping out of body, even on 1000hp have been ok. I thought that front supports too but i have no room on front, 4" downpipe and gearbox blocks everything

You can easily tune your air gap sensor like that. I got fixed air gap of 0.5mm. What is recommend air gap for sensor like that? Seems you have hall sensor, that is easy to check cause it just switches that in coming voltage, its not as strict to air gap like inductive is. If it switches it work. Inductive on abs case lits abs light if there is 0.5mm difference

Havent heard whole aluminium case 188 but E46 E39 compact 188 is slightly lighter. Keski-korpi drifting team uses welded one on their drifter. Ripped of from subframe last season

Pretty much same rules here in Finland

3.45:1 168mm diameter ring gear blow up. usually its planetary which goes out. mine´s are 2.79:1 and 2.65:1 ratios. Wont´change to 188 cause 168 has been good, its lighter and less parasitic loss

So no problem registering car with heim joints (T3 rear control arm) in switzerland?

This type of parts looks best swap before changing whole rear axle to something else, S13 ,S14, R32 or even something else. My fragile parts has been fine cause automatic transmission, Small case bmw diff can be broke even stock 4-cylinder bmw engine with manual transmission. Started wiring abs so they are 80% done damn shieet, that barra looks similar to OM606. CLEAN!!

Any alignment sheet to show? kpi's and casters etc.

I might not even have as much movement as this car has

Ookkay... mod is done and what i´ve notice this link angle that turning wheel binds sway bar a little. Turning wheels right, right side tyre goes slightly up and left side goes slightly down (sway bar movement such as you´re cornering left) not 100% happy about it but glad it´s not other way around. But i don´t know what it does to steering, driving over bump it might give some steering input, dont know it yet. When putting car first time sideways i know if i have to put it back to stock or trying that shortened 18mm bar with better link angles

https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=38918 Just searching how they do rear axle/diff on these monsters.

260z 2+2 swaybars are in, raving about shortened 18mm front bar on other thread but won´t do by now, reason clearance to alternator. 18mm 20mm but i think im good with these 20mm´s. Front being heavier than stock 2+2 and added caster causing more roll sensitivity, added stiffness moving sway bar link from control arm to strut might level those two factors. Found out my front struts are KYB excel-g and springs are stock US A/T springs

Sure it´s 2-way force, hit a bump sway bar tries to lever that force, thats why strong bars give more rough ride. And path of that force you can see above

Lower ball joint and sway bar links is stressed at stock mounting and only sway bar links are stressed on strut mounting. And everybody knows factory links last life time but are cushy without PU bushings, ball joint links are more rigid but wont last long. Sway bar mounting points on frame rails stress as stock 18mm Choose your path

I dont know how much those discs can take heat for track use but i could take those on light street use.

18mm sway bar 2.5kg 20mm sway bar 3kg, lighter than i thought thing is those tabs on strut forward link mounting point 25-30mm, link has some angle if its gonna be hooked straight to stock sway bar. So... to get that angle straight here is shortened 18mm sway bar.

With euro struts links would be longer, my car is us model. Sway bar tabs are hard/impossible with coil over threads. Twisted46: weight reduction mostly, id liked to know 18, 20 and 1" weights edit: 18mm front swaybar weight 2.5kg realized another thing what i can do, more later