manninen

I have these. I think you guys are on right track, desing aint best. My use is so light i think they will last. im not biggest fan cause those threaded parts are heaviest parts of this control arm and they add unsprung mass. weights 500grams more than stock control arm

I believe that these bars made some difference, even with rear bar some noises had changes. changed factory rear arms back, car is now road legal for 2 years. rear toe changed from +2.5mm back to +4mm, car is much stable. but felt kind of better with +2.5mm toe. ABS light stays on, abs works with no error codes so im gonna reverse light using changeover relay, cant say whats going on.

yes there is now rear swaybar too, car controls much better with that. when it looses grip on straight line it does it more predictable way, with out it´s a handful. slightly shortened 18mm front to strut might be good, but 18 and 20mm are bit different shape, 18mm is so close to alternator i dont want to use it

Okay, now driven on both setups i can tell this mod is way stiffer than original. For normal winding roads, brisk thru roundabouts normal setup is more balanced for my use, but on highway driving faster stiffer feels bit safer. Wet auto-x track would be fun to test on both, i think stiffer would understeer a lot.

Been driving now some. Added caster stiffened up steering feel but seems it follows these finnish inclined roads more. I have to swap stock swaybar links whats the difference with those. Went better direction with modern seatbelts and powerful brake booster

Did not pass MOT cause rear control arms, welded swaybar links were ok. But i have working ABS

Yeah you´re right, looses grip before anything breaks. Motor mounts are well engineered

Body twister, something is gonna break.

I use noise cancelling bose headphones on longer trips. Lightweight and best sound for car

2+2 http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/08/1000hp-of-datsun-fury/ This is nice build 2+2.

I can´t stand car not being driveable and i need clean to my garage anyway. being still one arm man all i could do is to assemble old rear axle parts together. Car is on it´s wheels tomorrow. More upgrades maybe next winter Wonder if i have working abs

drive shaft angle

taking few measurement

arm is getting better so i could file some holes. on frame those M10 which supposed to be 68mm spacing i got 67mm. i watercutted both spacing so i have to put them to frame and measure few things. maybe cannot perform that just yet. This part weights 1640g, mustache bar with bushings were 3.2kg. i dont know how much heavier this ends up when its finished.

got this over month waiting, but snapped my arm today so maybe 2 month pause from everything.

Yeah, doesnt help when large swaybar is hooked up those. Material needs to be chosen right at least

Those pics i have seen before. Sure i believe you about those to be broken. Just wanted to see one, was it that 4mm transverse link plate to crack or 10mm bolts ripped thru from body?

If one side goes other side will follow. Its possible if theres loose bolt some of those 8 bolts. Maybe if someone post picture broken one i lower my 100% it will last rate to 99% But yeah, im changing these

Any pictures how they go?

That flex on rear might be from bushing, i dont think that moustache bar to transverse link support change a thing. Only helps if you drift mad with wide tyres. I have incoming watercut part which replaces transverse links and moustache bar to one part and uses same hooking points. Other post its said catastrofic failure, havent heard none of stock tranverselinks ripping out of body, even on 1000hp have been ok. I thought that front supports too but i have no room on front, 4" downpipe and gearbox blocks everything

You can easily tune your air gap sensor like that. I got fixed air gap of 0.5mm. What is recommend air gap for sensor like that? Seems you have hall sensor, that is easy to check cause it just switches that in coming voltage, its not as strict to air gap like inductive is. If it switches it work. Inductive on abs case lits abs light if there is 0.5mm difference

Havent heard whole aluminium case 188 but E46 E39 compact 188 is slightly lighter. Keski-korpi drifting team uses welded one on their drifter. Ripped of from subframe last season

Pretty much same rules here in Finland

3.45:1 168mm diameter ring gear blow up. usually its planetary which goes out. mine´s are 2.79:1 and 2.65:1 ratios. Wont´change to 188 cause 168 has been good, its lighter and less parasitic loss

So no problem registering car with heim joints (T3 rear control arm) in switzerland?