manninen

Bmw E30 M3 went sway bar to strut from normal E30 sway bar to control arm for more efficient leverage, M3 uses lighter and thinner front sway bar. Anyone weld tab to strut? I made quick look and it sure does doable to early S30

https://www.silverminemotors.com/sway-bar-kit-for-240z-260z-280z choose that which has same shape.

Ring is larger so minimum took from hub and adapter fitted

If stock abs unit is used i would/will use sensors/rings from that car. Not with scope but multi meter reads ac, atleast somehing is coming out. Air cap seems quite small. Front aint problem but rear is more difficult

Today i took transverse links out and made jig for it. Now i can start design one piece transverse links. im using stock transverse member at this point. Stock material is 4mm but i think im going for 5mm, just have to make few holes to keep it light. Very rough sketch above Stock moustache bar and transverse links weight around 6.1kg

Not yet, started working my car two months ago. Wiring and rear sensor/ring air gap setup missing this point. Dont even know if abs unit is working or not, old used part

Very nice helm´s you guys have, choosed with good taste. im wondering if these 700gram wheels flex as much wish.com steering wheels

All parts from E36 BMW.

i have it like this. light and cheap

this is the thing from bicycle scene, carbon rims with alloy nipples. But i dont know, those conditions are bit different than my car which sits maybe 300days a year in dry garage. I remember vw golf mk2 had cast iron block, alloy gearbox and engine was grounded from gearbox, no underbelly and salty finnish conditions, many cars had issues with that. Damn, almost every part i add or change has been heavier than original. Didn´t weight but that 20mm front swaybar felt like its double the weight of 18mm, and rear bar heavier than front. i believe car might tip the scale 1200kg already. Just scaled my diff, 28.9kg thats heavier than stock R180? 2 recaro seats are worth 3 stock seats

That's good point, i dont use alloy nipples with carbon rim on my bike

I thought is ok idea because bolts are still there. Force just going on larger area. On 240z body there could even be glued carefully shape part around door supporting that flimsy a-pillar. It could even be aluminium. Sure i would not glue differential to body. But on sway bars its not just bolt ripping thru, its rail cracking above rail and wheelwell

Yeah those bad dog sway bar plates could be stronger. Im not going to weld just yet

Gluing that alloy plate to frame rail for extra support

Havent read all the comments but i saw you have one PU bushings used on tension bars. If you wanna "gain" some PU performance you should put PU bushing to inner side not outer. Im happy you have half rubber bushing used, i myself wont risk at all and im going full rubber.

What do you guys say, alloy plate bonded to swaybar mounts. Maybe with sikabond t2, bmw body adhesive k5 or something similar. i need some extra shims to sway bar anyway, alternator fan touches sway bar without shims... oddly much space like picture shows, i have to check motormounts... or can it be that 20mm swaybar is different shape to 18mm... odd...

How heavy is that sensor ring?

On front suspension there is thicker shim which allow pretty much max caster what can be added to stock parts. Changed PU bushings to stock rubber ones. let´s hope that my front wheels can still turn, oversize tyres goes so close to front valance and extra caster doesn´t help. I got 2+2 sway bars, both are 20mm. My stock 18mm front bar has so worn bushing that 20mm fits fine. That sway bar mounting area is so soft i have to do something, well, i have figured out it allready... tank job is done, im glad that 17mm 180deg hose were still there and good condition.

Getting rid of this too. As you can see all hoses are routed from same spot, hoses rollercoast and air lock like toilet. gonna block 10mm and 14mm and route that 17mm from original way. Only worry is not to fuel up to the cap anymore. That 6mm what is used to suck gas vapor out is used for fuel return, it spits fuel to the expansion tank and makes annoying sound, gonna route that to fuel return line.

Everything hooked up on engine bay. I waited first start and brake pedal feel so much!! it sure does feel a lot different. I might have to re-route incoming oil to turbo, its just under support bar which goes to firewall, i have to check hows the motormount flex. Next step is lift car to stands and start working with abs rings

I have to come back to this. So i bolted supportbar to firewall, theres four bolts and blue ones were good to drill but those yellow marked ones i noticed lots of flexing when drilling. Im glad i did not went commercial bars, well, they wont fit anyway

everything seems to fit. brake plumbing and glow plug relay left here. abs unit is fixed install without rubber mounting, must be really loud when active. I think its alloy master cylinder which needs flexible hoses, not gonna start to source those, thats why fixed.

under the hood goes double 16mm furniture tubing, its a tight fit. Seat belts hooked like this, just need to drill one 11mm hole

Mine is 72 That R8 part can be used in those newer bodies. I would put that. Yeah that tacoma booster must be like 240-245mm diameter

on bawfuls pictures on second page that booster installed there is more distance to throttle link than my car on stock booster. so something aint right. he talks about -77 car? http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Brake/Master-Vac-Hose according to this i have 6" booster, from -75 its 7.5" or 9" for 2+2 seater. that F30 booster is listed 8" and outer measured is 22.28cm