manninen

That amount of rust that it could be svensksåld and whole lifetime commuted in south sweden

Took luisi versilia from ebay, combo is actually 500g lighter than factory wheel, happy about that. It´s bit flexy, i have sent message to luisi volanti if it´s genuine or not. I really wanted hand spots to be higher than 3 and 9 o´clock, and no suede.

rear abs stuff done, 0.5mm air gap and theres output on oscilloscope. will it work? i hope

Would not call it a problem, its just finding best driving character for you. Could even be 20mm bar to strut same as 1" bar to apex control arm second softest spot. Me having 18mm and 20mm bars i have 4 different swaybar settings on front

i might have to talk with machine shop about custom hubs sometime. extra 30mm for geometry to take 45ET rims and hub centric desing. Again rear axle gives me headache ce28n 15x6 for integra DC2 racing is 5kg rim.

At this point i wont use those cause price and longevity and i find that shape of link best for this mod at this point. Gaining weight again with this mod

Some ripping on right side PU bushing too 280z must have different parts cause they are so much heavier? Techno toy tuning arms weight 2kg more than early 240z part?

Just measured i need 190mm swaybar link, i know MOT guys might not like cutted and welded link but its 10min job to attach sway bar to factory points for MOT. im doing this mod https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E30-E36-sway-bar-strut-mount-weld-brackets/253877569934?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 But again i have to criticise these parts, look how much you lose to leverage. you can only get softer with these parts But for the effectiveness to leverage to bmw it´s about +2mm (18mm bar acts as 20mm bar) but cause 240z sway bar mount is closer to lower ball joint im guessing +1mm for effectiveness Quick google to 190mm sway bar link says crown vic link might fit, thats not cheap find in Finland https://www.ebay.com/itm/165mm-210mm-Ball-Joint-Adjustable-Roll-Sway-Bar-End-Link-For-Lexus-Toyota-Nissan/264294647769?hash=item3d893047d9:g:Fd4AAOSwGhFcvW8f These are easiest. But citroen parts are 5€ each, just need to cut and weld

How much lighter to mine is your alloy hub with that subaru ring. (i got bearings, washer and center nut included)

Bmw E30 M3 went sway bar to strut from normal E30 sway bar to control arm for more efficient leverage, M3 uses lighter and thinner front sway bar. Anyone weld tab to strut? I made quick look and it sure does doable to early S30

https://www.silverminemotors.com/sway-bar-kit-for-240z-260z-280z choose that which has same shape.

Ring is larger so minimum took from hub and adapter fitted

If stock abs unit is used i would/will use sensors/rings from that car. Not with scope but multi meter reads ac, atleast somehing is coming out. Air cap seems quite small. Front aint problem but rear is more difficult

Today i took transverse links out and made jig for it. Now i can start design one piece transverse links. im using stock transverse member at this point. Stock material is 4mm but i think im going for 5mm, just have to make few holes to keep it light. Very rough sketch above Stock moustache bar and transverse links weight around 6.1kg

Not yet, started working my car two months ago. Wiring and rear sensor/ring air gap setup missing this point. Dont even know if abs unit is working or not, old used part

Very nice helm´s you guys have, choosed with good taste. im wondering if these 700gram wheels flex as much wish.com steering wheels

All parts from E36 BMW.

i have it like this. light and cheap

this is the thing from bicycle scene, carbon rims with alloy nipples. But i dont know, those conditions are bit different than my car which sits maybe 300days a year in dry garage. I remember vw golf mk2 had cast iron block, alloy gearbox and engine was grounded from gearbox, no underbelly and salty finnish conditions, many cars had issues with that. Damn, almost every part i add or change has been heavier than original. Didn´t weight but that 20mm front swaybar felt like its double the weight of 18mm, and rear bar heavier than front. i believe car might tip the scale 1200kg already. Just scaled my diff, 28.9kg thats heavier than stock R180? 2 recaro seats are worth 3 stock seats

That's good point, i dont use alloy nipples with carbon rim on my bike

I thought is ok idea because bolts are still there. Force just going on larger area. On 240z body there could even be glued carefully shape part around door supporting that flimsy a-pillar. It could even be aluminium. Sure i would not glue differential to body. But on sway bars its not just bolt ripping thru, its rail cracking above rail and wheelwell

Yeah those bad dog sway bar plates could be stronger. Im not going to weld just yet

Gluing that alloy plate to frame rail for extra support

Havent read all the comments but i saw you have one PU bushings used on tension bars. If you wanna "gain" some PU performance you should put PU bushing to inner side not outer. Im happy you have half rubber bushing used, i myself wont risk at all and im going full rubber.

What do you guys say, alloy plate bonded to swaybar mounts. Maybe with sikabond t2, bmw body adhesive k5 or something similar. i need some extra shims to sway bar anyway, alternator fan touches sway bar without shims... oddly much space like picture shows, i have to check motormounts... or can it be that 20mm swaybar is different shape to 18mm... odd...