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Everything posted by manninen
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Front sway bar to strut
manninen replied to manninen's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
At this point i wont use those cause price and longevity and i find that shape of link best for this mod at this point. Gaining weight again with this mod -
Some ripping on right side PU bushing too 280z must have different parts cause they are so much heavier? Techno toy tuning arms weight 2kg more than early 240z part?
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Front sway bar to strut
manninen replied to manninen's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Just measured i need 190mm swaybar link, i know MOT guys might not like cutted and welded link but its 10min job to attach sway bar to factory points for MOT. im doing this mod https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E30-E36-sway-bar-strut-mount-weld-brackets/253877569934?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 But again i have to criticise these parts, look how much you lose to leverage. you can only get softer with these parts But for the effectiveness to leverage to bmw it´s about +2mm (18mm bar acts as 20mm bar) but cause 240z sway bar mount is closer to lower ball joint im guessing +1mm for effectiveness Quick google to 190mm sway bar link says crown vic link might fit, thats not cheap find in Finland https://www.ebay.com/itm/165mm-210mm-Ball-Joint-Adjustable-Roll-Sway-Bar-End-Link-For-Lexus-Toyota-Nissan/264294647769?hash=item3d893047d9:g:Fd4AAOSwGhFcvW8f These are easiest. But citroen parts are 5€ each, just need to cut and weld -
Front Wheel Speed Sensor kit
manninen replied to ZT-R's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
How much lighter to mine is your alloy hub with that subaru ring. (i got bearings, washer and center nut included) -
Bmw E30 M3 went sway bar to strut from normal E30 sway bar to control arm for more efficient leverage, M3 uses lighter and thinner front sway bar. Anyone weld tab to strut? I made quick look and it sure does doable to early S30
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Front Wheel Speed Sensor kit
manninen replied to ZT-R's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Ring is larger so minimum took from hub and adapter fitted -
Front Wheel Speed Sensor kit
manninen replied to ZT-R's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
If stock abs unit is used i would/will use sensors/rings from that car. Not with scope but multi meter reads ac, atleast somehing is coming out. Air cap seems quite small. Front aint problem but rear is more difficult -
Today i took transverse links out and made jig for it. Now i can start design one piece transverse links. im using stock transverse member at this point. Stock material is 4mm but i think im going for 5mm, just have to make few holes to keep it light. Very rough sketch above Stock moustache bar and transverse links weight around 6.1kg
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Front Wheel Speed Sensor kit
manninen replied to ZT-R's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Not yet, started working my car two months ago. Wiring and rear sensor/ring air gap setup missing this point. Dont even know if abs unit is working or not, old used part -
Very nice helm´s you guys have, choosed with good taste. im wondering if these 700gram wheels flex as much wish.com steering wheels
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Front Wheel Speed Sensor kit
manninen replied to ZT-R's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
All parts from E36 BMW. -
Front Wheel Speed Sensor kit
manninen replied to ZT-R's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
i have it like this. light and cheap -
this is the thing from bicycle scene, carbon rims with alloy nipples. But i dont know, those conditions are bit different than my car which sits maybe 300days a year in dry garage. I remember vw golf mk2 had cast iron block, alloy gearbox and engine was grounded from gearbox, no underbelly and salty finnish conditions, many cars had issues with that. Damn, almost every part i add or change has been heavier than original. Didn´t weight but that 20mm front swaybar felt like its double the weight of 18mm, and rear bar heavier than front. i believe car might tip the scale 1200kg already. Just scaled my diff, 28.9kg thats heavier than stock R180? 2 recaro seats are worth 3 stock seats
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That's good point, i dont use alloy nipples with carbon rim on my bike
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I thought is ok idea because bolts are still there. Force just going on larger area. On 240z body there could even be glued carefully shape part around door supporting that flimsy a-pillar. It could even be aluminium. Sure i would not glue differential to body. But on sway bars its not just bolt ripping thru, its rail cracking above rail and wheelwell
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Yeah those bad dog sway bar plates could be stronger. Im not going to weld just yet
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Gluing that alloy plate to frame rail for extra support
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Havent read all the comments but i saw you have one PU bushings used on tension bars. If you wanna "gain" some PU performance you should put PU bushing to inner side not outer. Im happy you have half rubber bushing used, i myself wont risk at all and im going full rubber.
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What do you guys say, alloy plate bonded to swaybar mounts. Maybe with sikabond t2, bmw body adhesive k5 or something similar. i need some extra shims to sway bar anyway, alternator fan touches sway bar without shims... oddly much space like picture shows, i have to check motormounts... or can it be that 20mm swaybar is different shape to 18mm... odd...
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Front Wheel Speed Sensor kit
manninen replied to ZT-R's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
How heavy is that sensor ring? -
On front suspension there is thicker shim which allow pretty much max caster what can be added to stock parts. Changed PU bushings to stock rubber ones. let´s hope that my front wheels can still turn, oversize tyres goes so close to front valance and extra caster doesn´t help. I got 2+2 sway bars, both are 20mm. My stock 18mm front bar has so worn bushing that 20mm fits fine. That sway bar mounting area is so soft i have to do something, well, i have figured out it allready... tank job is done, im glad that 17mm 180deg hose were still there and good condition.
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Getting rid of this too. As you can see all hoses are routed from same spot, hoses rollercoast and air lock like toilet. gonna block 10mm and 14mm and route that 17mm from original way. Only worry is not to fuel up to the cap anymore. That 6mm what is used to suck gas vapor out is used for fuel return, it spits fuel to the expansion tank and makes annoying sound, gonna route that to fuel return line.
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Everything hooked up on engine bay. I waited first start and brake pedal feel so much!! it sure does feel a lot different. I might have to re-route incoming oil to turbo, its just under support bar which goes to firewall, i have to check hows the motormount flex. Next step is lift car to stands and start working with abs rings
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I have to come back to this. So i bolted supportbar to firewall, theres four bolts and blue ones were good to drill but those yellow marked ones i noticed lots of flexing when drilling. Im glad i did not went commercial bars, well, they wont fit anyway