manninen

What do you guys say, alloy plate bonded to swaybar mounts. Maybe with sikabond t2, bmw body adhesive k5 or something similar. i need some extra shims to sway bar anyway, alternator fan touches sway bar without shims... oddly much space like picture shows, i have to check motormounts... or can it be that 20mm swaybar is different shape to 18mm... odd...

How heavy is that sensor ring?

On front suspension there is thicker shim which allow pretty much max caster what can be added to stock parts. Changed PU bushings to stock rubber ones. let´s hope that my front wheels can still turn, oversize tyres goes so close to front valance and extra caster doesn´t help. I got 2+2 sway bars, both are 20mm. My stock 18mm front bar has so worn bushing that 20mm fits fine. That sway bar mounting area is so soft i have to do something, well, i have figured out it allready... tank job is done, im glad that 17mm 180deg hose were still there and good condition.

Getting rid of this too. As you can see all hoses are routed from same spot, hoses rollercoast and air lock like toilet. gonna block 10mm and 14mm and route that 17mm from original way. Only worry is not to fuel up to the cap anymore. That 6mm what is used to suck gas vapor out is used for fuel return, it spits fuel to the expansion tank and makes annoying sound, gonna route that to fuel return line.

Everything hooked up on engine bay. I waited first start and brake pedal feel so much!! it sure does feel a lot different. I might have to re-route incoming oil to turbo, its just under support bar which goes to firewall, i have to check hows the motormount flex. Next step is lift car to stands and start working with abs rings

I have to come back to this. So i bolted supportbar to firewall, theres four bolts and blue ones were good to drill but those yellow marked ones i noticed lots of flexing when drilling. Im glad i did not went commercial bars, well, they wont fit anyway

everything seems to fit. brake plumbing and glow plug relay left here. abs unit is fixed install without rubber mounting, must be really loud when active. I think its alloy master cylinder which needs flexible hoses, not gonna start to source those, thats why fixed.

under the hood goes double 16mm furniture tubing, its a tight fit. Seat belts hooked like this, just need to drill one 11mm hole

Mine is 72 That R8 part can be used in those newer bodies. I would put that. Yeah that tacoma booster must be like 240-245mm diameter

on bawfuls pictures on second page that booster installed there is more distance to throttle link than my car on stock booster. so something aint right. he talks about -77 car? http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Brake/Master-Vac-Hose according to this i have 6" booster, from -75 its 7.5" or 9" for 2+2 seater. that F30 booster is listed 8" and outer measured is 22.28cm

Is that tacoma booster really that small, 225mm outer diameter is max to with 240z. still have to drill new holes cause 240z ain´t symmetric bolt pattern

Today i finished strut tops for rear, they can hold new safety belts. i think im testing if those bars help any just cutting few pipes to lenght crushing ends and drilling holes, then lift rear wheel up and try to take bolt of, if it can be taken away easily im not gonna put any more dead weight. Received cheap F30 bmw brake booster, it´s a fit. 23.8mm master and 5.5 boost factor. i hope i can still fit my cruise control box, it´s a bit crowded on booster area

Today i received citroen 2cv seat belts, MOT engineers gave quite free hands how to install them. "just use common sense" When im starting to build rear strut thingy im hooking seat belts to rear struts. only thing with these belts is that belt stopper has cable, with recaro seats original type thin belt stopper would be better.

Went to local scrap yard to check those booster. yeah all looked just too big. Mitsubishi colt system looks ok and they are cheap. same 22.2mm master but i´ll bet boost factor is much more than stock 240z booster has. Some boosters has boost factor indicated, this bmw one has 4.5 factor. scrap yard renault one had 5.5. E61 bmw had 7. put that on Z you hit your nose on windscreen every time you brake.

bmw E61 Im looking for compact size. and of course cheap price. E61 bmw parts are around 50€ and that R8 part 135€. used parts

Took my brake booster off cause i have to make them pipes anyway What do you guys say audi r8 booster and master cylinder, its 27mm

Yes same car, still alive. i got contacted with Toni L. maybe to get some stock part he might not need. and yes theres some flaws on every control arms like TTT, arizona, and apex when u start to look them closer. With this polish arm heavy parts are inner bushing bolts and those outer adjust/bushing parts, arm itself is quite light Im going with stock code, i have valve for rear brakes. i ´ve had only close call on german autobahn when i had to brake quickly cause of stau, with ABS you can just hit it and wait

its like this now. so with this end it would be bolted to transverse links yes tell me about it, there is no control arms i like 100%, i chose these cause there is no heim joints. plate is maybe 5-6mm. heaviest part of arm and located on tyre end, no don´t do it like this. Maybe done like this so TTT and apex could not blame copying? it has internal control unit

bought bmw z3 abs unit similar to this, it does have two pipes on front and one for back. pretty old school E30 style. let´s hope theres room for this

Body rigidity and more planted rear end under power

today i received these control arms. Seems decent quality, 4.8kg weight, can be used with stock rubber inner bushings. PU bushings which came installed seems to be softer than energy suspension bushings i had. Outer bushings are tight fit, couldn´t take them off by two fingers. Here´s my only alignment sheet i´ve done. i dont know if left toe comes from worn PU bushings. rear toe might be leveled between left/right by just moving transverse links, cant remember how loose their holes were. Here´s quite similar stuff to 240Z, about toe perspective. I think im going with 2mm toe-in on both axles

Yes that suspension conversion looks good but i think im not going with uniballs just yet. https://i.imgur.com/kyOuN1a.mp4 my PU bushings wasnt long joy so im ditching all PU bushings places where is larger movement going on

About the suspension, i have bmw limited slip diff, its now hooked to mustache bar. Why not combine mustache bar to transverse links, stock 3part to one part system With this it might be road legal issue here in finland so i have to think about it is it flexing 17:30? Okay these are my thoughts this time

With this one i might gone too far but yeah, orange spots being mustache bar bolts and those four dots, was it four M8 or M10 holding whole rear suspension from rear together. Seems legit, heard no one breaking those though

I believe those black lines being strongest part on firewall. So this might be good design start to evolve, tube bolted to firewall and something between those.