BLKMGK

Accel billetech small cap distributor with an HEI type conversion cap. Igntion is an Accel 300+ using the distributor's mag trigger only. I think this guy's distributors sound fine. I'd get a small cap w/HEI terminals and then run an aftermarket ignition...

Alky into the intake or onto the intercooler? I'd think spraying the intercooler would end up a waste. How's the ignition timing? P.S. Maybe use an exhaust expander on the end to get to 2.5 maybe?

Heh, what makes you think that those of us in VA don't run detectors? So far as I'm concerned it's a nice radio receiver Hrm, I may try an A/C vent hole sometime for myself. We'll see - would've been good to have previously when my alternator died

Okay, mounted this puppy in the vise and took a shot at it. One shaft popped right out w/bearings attacthced The other, the one that gave me problems earlier of course, refuses to come out. It moves part way and then stops - just sort of rattles in there. On this one the bearing is stuck in there good and isn't coming out with the shaft Lastly, my adapters aren't quite fitting into the pockets correctly. I'm pretty sure a little grinding would drop them right in but I worry this will cause runout. I'm going to speak to a friend of mine who's got the tools to measure this about getting it all centered up Afterwards I'll find a machine shop to drill the stubs once I've gotten them out of course Ideas on popping that last one out guys? I'm soaking it in oil right now

Drove a bit the other day, short shifted into second and rolled into the gas about 3/4s. I proceeded to lay 5 feet of drag radial on the road Oops! I actually didn't mean to do it as I'm trying to take it easy on these Us but - stuff happens. I'm pretty sure my secondaries are still dormant too so.... 300RWHP is "all" I'm running so bear that in mind when considering power requirements...

Nope, not yet! However there are blankets available that the Camaro guys have used and you can get an SFI flywheel too. Lastly, one ITS racecar I looked at had 1/4inch steel welded into the area around the trans tunnel to help deflect any flying steel. Worth considering I guess. Personally, I worry at least as much about a clutch explosion than I do flywheel. Saw a Mustang on the lift one day that had had this occur. Trans was trashed, block was toast, flywheel chewed up. The clutch had exploded and made mincemeat of the assembly including exiting the aluminum T5 bellhousing. Some scars on the floorpan but no penetration inside. Was pretty ugly ARP doesn't appear to make flywheel bolts for this app either. If someone knows differently I'd appreciate a part number

Couple of things, paint acts as an insulator for one thing. While it might help radiate heat the amount of radiation it does, especially on a radiator, is going to be offset if not overcome by the insulating effect of the paint. So, why do non-aluminum radiators come painted? Because they corrode far more quickly without the protection of the paint. Aluminum "rusts" too but it's not as quick unless salt is involved. You can buy "fin cleaner" which is actually acid from an A/C suppoly shop. I've used it on my home A/C more than once to clean the coils in the furnace once upon a time.... As for the rest - yeah Nth degree probably applies. Supposdly heavy grease on a motor can make the engine run hotter but if it takes that much grease to do this, and I doubt it really makes much difference, then I don't think paint color is going to do anything I have known women to be induced into having gaskets changed with that line though. After all, they wouldn't want to be stranded becasue their car overheated due to not changing that gasket would they? I hate dealers...

Bike stiffer? Is the frame members in compression or what? In this case the trans will be attempting to bend the support and twist it not compress it so comparing it to the bike might not be applicable. The bike frame I had was pretty stiff too but it was fairly big tubing and before I was done with it I had cracks in several places I broke pedals (cro moly), handlebars (aluminum), goosnecks (cro moly), seat shafts (fluted aluminum), wheels (plastic?!), oh and a few cranks were bent which were both aluminum and cro moly. Not sure bike parts are going to apply Stiff and strength in this case might be two different things. Lay a bike on it's side on a curb and jump on the tubing - you may see what I mean... Done correctly I think an aluminum mount would work. However I'd NOT use just flat plate like JTR did. I'd make a T out of it. Flat plate and then weld a section under it to strengthen it? Tubing sounds tempting but how thick a wall can you get that in easily? Lone's right though - the JTR mount is pretty beefy and there may be a reason for it. I had to section mine and it required a nasty chop saw to do the work. Beefy!

ROTFL - won't it swell? Thanks, I'll try this tomorrow!

If this is the bushing I think it is... SAWZALL! Slide th eblade in the middle of the shell, fire it up, and then seperate the shell to take it out One of the others I burned out. Just kept the heat on till it expanded and squirted out. When it started to burn I'd put it out - phew! As the rubber got real hot I was able to puch the bushing out. Oh yeah - that's when I needed the sawzall for the outer shell

How much?

Nah, the breaker was going to snap. I had my foot on the workbench, strut inthe vice, and had the bar flexing WAY too much! I DID get my NUTZ off though Drilled a hole down the side where the flat was real close to the stub. Worked th ehole such that it was close to the far edge too. Took a chisel and sort of cracked th enut. Sprayed it with oil and pried on it again - came right off as soon as the oil managed to get in there. Second one I just cut th eflats off of the nut, sprayed it one more time, and pried - it came off with much less force. So, now what? Flange is off but stub is retained. What works best to get the stub out? I've got a brass hammer but.... smack it? No slide hammer and it's not on the car so what works best? Geez, the things I do for this car Heh, got my nutz off but my stub is stuck (ROTFL).

What did you do for the cable attachment? The cable? Stock Z stuff or did you have to source this elsewhere?

Cute, another thread I can't read for some reason. Posting to bump and try and make it readable fo rme. Sheesh, this is IE for kripes sakes. Will update if I have anything of value to add There, now I can read it. I've not heard anything from Airheart lately but they mostly did airplane brakes I thought. Maybe check out some aircraft sites to see what's up? Perhaps Wilwood is one of THEIR divisions? Dunno'. Pete, pics of how ya' hookd that up would be awesome Me an Mike are haggling onwhere to mount mine - high or low and cable ease of install makes a big difference to me. I've alreayd had the car start to roll away once or twice

Pete, can you please provide details, especially pics, of how you did your parking brake cable? I'm about to do the same thing and Mike's giving me the option of putting the brake down low or high - cable hookup may make a difference. I've got room to put it either place I think but cable hookup is giving me pause... Thanks!

I like those flairs too - do they stick out far? If I added them would I be cutting out metal too? With the wheelstires I've got would they look silly all up under the car? Would like to see some in person,would be way cool Dan's car is sweet!

Holy smokes, I think this damned nut married the threads! I managed to cut away the peened over part and am indeed using th ejack handle to no avail! The bar actually starts to flex, was afraid I'd snap it! Will probably take it to my friend's shop and try his impact - he's got a MONSTER! Any impact that can cinch down a crush sleeve on a rear is something to be feared My impact makes lot's of noise, NO movement at all! Heated it up, melted some wax into the threads - nothing. Liquid Wrench is laughed at. This is one bad MF! I'll win or die trying (lol)

Use the search, this has been discussed before and th econsensus as I recall was that parts are VERY expensive. Jags aren't exactly known for high reliablity either. It would look really cool mind you but if it drove you into the poorhouse...

Got the air compressor, no sweat. I was actually kind of wondering why the nut was peened over, thought th elater Zs didn't do that? sleeper, you didn't trash the threads on the stub?

Tried that nut tonight - whew! Nearly snapped the prybar working it tonight. Might have to try some hot wax and an impact next time around. This sucker is stuck pretty good, I'll try the other tomorrow to see if it's any looser. Liquid wrench isn't real good but it's what I've got. An impact may make a difference. Could only get a 12pt socket though...

Ah, duh - missed the ZX part. Okay, but 280Z stubs are the stronger ones for use with CVs right? Will order ZX nuts ASAP for this. Thanks!

Lone is correct. 600HP in a tubby car like a Camaro is pretty quick, knock 1Klbs off of that or more and you've got the weight of a Z My car, putting 300RWHP down right now, hits 50mph in second within the blink of an eye. It shoudl be making more power and I may put a turbo or blower on it even then, it'll be pretty scary I think. We'll see, EFI first then I'll decide but honestly I don't think anything more than about 500HP makes too much sense for a street driven Z. At the very least work your way up to it

FWIW, I've got one of those solid diff mounts and I honestly don't notice any real vibration or whine through it. It's pretty streetable but the noise from the exhaust may be what's covering any whine it may be putting out, I dunno'. The steel cable strap idea from JTR isn't a bad one but my mount was shot so.... Not putting down enugh power to break anything but U joints yet

Okay, I've got a set of stub axles that I need to remove, these are from a 280Z. I think 've managed to unpeen the edges well enough to give them a tug and try to remove them from the struts. However I've not go tclue one as to what size socket to use! It's smaller than 30mm but bigger than 20mm - what size is that sucker?! Looks like I'm going to have to buy one Been soaking it for two days in Liquid Wrench along with a little heat so I hope it's nearly prepared to surrender Thanks!

Couple of things to consider... HP takes airflow, th eboost number advertised doesn't mean squat. Take a "15lb" blower, put it on a 305, and it might make 18lbs of boost. Take that same blower and put it on a 406 with no pulley changes and it may make 10lbs. "Boost" is a measurement of restriction and with belt driven superchargers the amount of air the engine ingests changes the number on the gauge. Been there, done that. So, sit down and figure to how much airflow it takes to make the power number you want. Head over to one of the blower sites and figure out which blower can flow that amount of air without overspinning or getting out of it's "sweet spot" where it's most efficient. Chances are the blower you're now looking at is a race piece, the ATI unit I'm thinking you're now seeing is made of billet aluminum and costs about $6K+. What Grumpy said about detonation is also true. Even if you could flow the air needed for 900HP the octane requirements would be pretty high even with a really good intercooler bringing air temps down. A more reasonable number to shoot for would be 500 or so. My reason for saying that is that hitting that number isn't as hard and it's a number you've actually got a chance of putting to the ground without comepletely twisting your car into pieces. You could probably go higher actually but as the Darius videos show, hooking it up isn't easy! A blower or turbo, maybe a nitrous hit, are all viable paths IMO. To get that much HP and still remain streetable enough to drive without going nuts I'd go one of those routes. Would you really want something so high strung it can hardly be driven? I recently watched an LS1 putting 300RWHP down jump to over 400+ with a 100horse shot of nitrous and when not on the juice it was as streetable as a Honda! P.S. What Grumpy said regarding % of gains is right on. They make that much more power on STOCK vehicles because those vehicles are so ineffecientasthmatic to begin with. That % won't hold when you're already starting with an engine that breathes better on it's own. Think of forced induction as a beer bong, open your mouth and it drains right in. Make the pipe too big around or the height of the funnel too high and you'll choke (or worse)!