proxlamus©

The automatic transmission has a flex plate with a washer/spacer sandwiched between the engine block and the flex plate.. In order to install a manual transmission, the flywheel will be bolted on the block without the spacer. Be sure to add a pilot bushing/bearing at the end of the crank since the automatics did not require one!!! =)

Insurance on a STi is really really high.. just fyi

Hyundai's arent too bad to be honest, my dad has a Sonata, mom has a Elantra, I'm temporarily driving the other Hyundai Elantra, the only issue they have run into was bad O2 sensors on the 2004 Sonata and a faulty window motor and door lock on the rear passenger door. I love the Genesis and the new Sonata is really nice. The BMW 5 series, roughly 2005-2007ish is under 20k. Volvo has some well built cars for under 20k and who can forget.. a Infinity G37 4-door!

damnit.. my reply didn't post The stoichiometric air/fuel mixture for gasoline powered engines is 14.7. This does NOT change with altitude.. the air density and oxygen levels change with altitude which require less fuel. Even airplanes taking off at sea level and climbing to 18,000 msl need to adjust the air/fuel ratio to aim for the proper AFR/EGR temp for max power and fuel economy. Your car will need to be tuned at altitude, but once again, the AFR numbers will remain the same. 11-12 afr under load/boost, 12-14 moderate loads, 14-16 afr rich/low cruise

ugh error

You didnt look hard enough.. Jon's Bump Steer FAQ

I have the 60 gallon Husky compressor from The Home Depot, which regulator did you purchase?! Mine has a built in pressure gauge and a plastic adjusting knob from Husky. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhf/R-100082550/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 That's a very bizarre problem you have. My compressor is set up this way: Compressor > Shut off ball valve > regulator > water separator > hose I severely doubt that changing the regulator and water separator around will make much of a difference.. Have you called Husky's customer service?! I wouldn't recommend going to Home Depot and talking to a hardware associate, depends on the associate, but most won't have a clue. 1-888-HD-HUSKY

bump for a very interesting read =)

a little bump.. anyone else wanna chime in?! I need to do some research, but can I apply POR-15 then an undercoating?! hurm

So I've been sanding my car down with a dual action sander, wire brush, grinding disc and soda blasting and I'm having a difficult time getting the paint down to the bare metal. If I use a 80 grit sand paper and sand down through the original clear coat and partially between the paint and primer in certain spots, is it necessary to strip the paint ALL the way down to the metal or primer for a re-spray?!?! There are areas on the underbelly where I was able to get the factory undercoating off, but not the yellow-ish primer. This is the same on the interior of the car as well... I'm worried the primer and paint won't stick unless I take it all off. Am I being overly cautious or is it ok to paint over a very well sanded original paint/primer??!

ohh good ol Colorado. I have winds gusting to 45 mph right now with freezing rain pelting my windows in my room. grr

I've been browsing around on different fuel options.. I know a lot of guys don't recommend a fuel cell unless I opt for a good $1,000 unit with a bladder and foam core.. I've seen a lot of guys weld on a fuel tank sump and then a lot of guys who have welded up a surge tank off to the side. Unfortunately I don't know a whole lot about the major differences and I was hoping to get some input. - My plan was to use the factory 280z tank, weld up a surge tank and run the low and high pressure pumps. Would there be any benefit to welding on a fuel sump on the bottom of the (280z efi) tank with a separate surge tank??

the fuel cell is a good option, but I have read that if your going to do it, opt for a nice aluminum unit with a bladder and foam on the inside.. which can go up to $1,000!!? a lot of guys wish they kept their factory tank and welded on a sump.

haha.. after working at Home Depot for the past 5 years.. I will completely agree with this thread =)

Oh John, Im not comparing a 240z to a WRC car.. I just wanted to bring up a WRC car as an example of modifying the floor-pan, the seats and the seat mounts to allow adequate headroom for a cage. I was hoping to see that maybe someone may have done the same. I have not made up my mind until now and I'm glad people are chiming in their opinions.. I have decided to go with only a half cage, after hearing the opinions of people who talk from experience. Thanks guys!

yeeehh pics pics!

what are you doing about the spare tire well?

Wow! thanks for the great response guys! I am defin. going to grab a 3.54 =)

So im debating between a full and half cage.. I realize that a half cage is recommended for any car that is ever used on the street, but after watching tons of WRC racing.. Ive realized that these cars are driven for many many many many miles between the rally stages and they don't wear helmets.. the WRC cars have the seats mounted very low with plenty of headroom above their heads and the halo/roll bar Help me make sense of this.. in the event of an accident, if my head moves it will smack the roll bar.. without a roll bar and my head moves an extra 1 1/2" my head will hit the upper door frame?!?! I just dont see the big difference an 1 1/2" will make.. especially with nice padding!? Has anyone used SIDE seat mounts and mounted the seats super low and had issues with head room?!

Tim, pm sent. Richard, thank you for the reply!! If things fall through with the local source, I will contact you! Thanks again!!

Im still interested!

I agree.. I should of paid a shop to do it.. dumb mistake.. its my first car, so another learning experience and lesson learned. I will however be able to use the soda/abrasive blaster for suspension parts and a blast cabinet. so its not a total waste. I found a cheap local source for soda bicarbonate.. harbor freight wanted $39 for a 50 lb bag... I found a place in town that sold me 100 pounds of soda bicarbonate AND 100 pounds of nickel slag 90 grit for rust removal for $55 after taxes!! What a deal!!! 200 pounds for $55?! sold!! =) All of the sand Home Depot sells (quickrete)states on the bag and instructions DO NOT use for sand blasting.. silicosis anyone?! The nickel slag seems pretty sweet for the rust removal.. its also called the "green diamond" and less then 1% silica

not really sure why you copied and quoted my old post zgeezer, with nothing else added after the quote???!

I have a moon/sun roof on my '78 280z.. I am looking for a clean roof skin or a cut off roof from the upper a-pillars and b-pillars. Anyone have anything?! thanks guys

No offense.. but I think it would be of some benefit to find a clean 240z and a RB front clip, McKinney's motor mount kit for a RB and drop it off to a shop and have them do the work. I mean a stock 2004 Sti at the lowest is around $20k... plus all of your mods... You can easily build a 240z with an RB and have a shop do all the work for WELL under that.