proxlamus©

=)

http://www.gurneyflap.com/bmwturbof1engine.html It's on a BMW F1 engine... BUT WHY?! I don't get it.. it's weird

he has some lovely coil overs.. which i drool over every time i see pics of his absolutly stunning ride... darn you Alex!

have you tried the http://www.msefi.com forum?! they have TONS of answers!

now thats a nice intake AND exhuast manifold! wow! im jealous that exhuast manifold will let ya run an external wastgate which is awsome!! plus if ya dyno it.. at higher RPM's watch that tubular header GLOW! hahaha how much ya snag em for?! looks like the intake manifold uses the stock intake manifold thing.. i forgot what it's called.. Lol.. anyway.. looks like the runners were cut off and a new sheetmetal one was made! how cool!

do you have pics of any of the connections or the install?! Take a pic of the HEI and the coil or something.. maybe there is a wire mix up.. or a bad ground or connection

LoL.. sorry man!! Maybe I should of mentioned that in my thread... but did you get it up and running?!

That's weird... very weird.. When tuning airplanes with carb's... I know during the run up.. we rev it up to 1,700 RPM and start leaning the mixture out.. and we lean the mixture out untill I start to see the RPM's drop... then I add a bit more fuel back till it's at peak RPM or 1,700 RPM. Then I add 3 half turns of the mixture screw or basically just add some more fuel to be safe and not lean out too much.... Just like when tuning your AFM... at IDLE, finger the AFM flap and move it around rich or lean. You will notice when you lean the mixture, the idle RPM increases and the engine seems to run very very smoothly. Now REV the engine and hold the engine at 2,500 RPM and do the same thing... when you add more fuel, the idle will sputter and run rough. Make it LEAN and the RPM's will run much much smoother and literally seem to rev up to 3,100 RPM! You goal is to keep it a little bit rich, but have an excellent idle and good higher RPM range... and do this by moving the AFM wheel.... try leaning it out 4 teeth. Once you move, and tighten the spring/wheel now do the same steps over again. With the now tighter spring, try using your finger to make it lean.. if you can't tell a difference, your a bit too lean. If you lean it by hand and the idle picks up a little.. not too much your perfect. Now try the same thing under 2,500 RPM or even 3,500 RPM and see how it does. The stock EFI loves to idle rich... so don't forget if you lean it out at idle.. it will run even more lean at higher RPM's... so you have to be very careful. Make it rich at idle.. and a little lean at higher RPM's. your FMU will be sure to compensate for the extra fuel needed under boost.. since that is what they are designed for. As for the smell.. very strange.. maybe your running even richer?!

thanks guys! thanks for the link Sims!

I am going to order the ACT 6 puck clutch and pressure plate from : http://www.clutchcityonline.com/ACT/nissan/280zx.htm Heavy Duty Pressure Plate w/ 6 Pad Race Disc Kit - (quick engagement; for race cars) 63% 512 ft-lb $314.00 OR ... since it is a daily driver should I just go out and buy the Heavy Duty Pressure Plate w/ Modified Street Disc Kit 63% 400 ft-lb $358.00 I also wanted to make sure.. I have a 1977 5-speed transmission, and I did a search and found out some trannies have dis-engagement problems. Will my clutch fork and master/slave cylinder handle the new pressure plate?! are there any other mods I should know about before I order it as in driveability and modifications I need to do!? Im hoping drop the tranny and install the new clutch within an afternoon since i just did the swap a few months ago.. but the clutch is slipping already.. N/A clutch and turbo = clutch eatin alive

Z31 downpipe installed in my 280Z... fits fine.. the turbo drain line... yes you do need to modify.. i just cut the elbow off and clamped on a hose. i used the stock Z31 wastegate.. and reclocked it a bit.. works fine...

i'm running a Z31 watercooled turbo... same specs as the 280ZX T3 turbo.. just has oil and water for coolant... lasts longer and you don't have to let the car idle for ever upon shutdown. 84-85 Standard T3 86 watercooled T3 87-89 smaller and watercooled T25

the Gunmetal's are on backorder for 60 people right now.. 60!! So i dunno.. should I get silver.. or be patient and wait for gunmetal?!

im wondering the same question.. do I have to re-thread a new hole in my block?! how can I do this?

hey man it's YInSaNeAsYLuM from online.. anyway.. i wanted to talk to you about the hood you are offering.. I want to order one! ASAP! Ill be on wednesday.. so hopefully we can work somethin ouy

they fit perfectly.. soo snug as for 17psi! sure!.. but ill never find out.. LoL... ok maybe next summer

thanks No i just used... a 90 degree reduced silicone bend out of the turbo... 2" to a 2.5" 90 bend (1 quantity) 2.5" to a 2.75" (2 quantity) for the intercooler inlet/outlet 2.5" silicone connecter/coupler (2 quantity) Thats it! I bought three 2.5" U-bends and only have to use ONE! so I still have two more sitting in the basement! I went to an exhuast shop and bought 3 feet of straight pipe for like $25. Ohh and this was NO welding.. since I do not know how to weld.. lol. The straight pipe goes through the radiator support then I have a small 6 inch pipe at an angle with the connectors on to make a bit of an angle.. and it worked... holds boost at 12psi without the pipes blowing off. Soo not bad..

do you have pics of your intake manifold?! wow.. that sounds like one MEAN ride!

yep.. i only used 1 U bend or 2 of those pipes.. and 1 LONG straight pipe.. check out my cardomain site for more pics

have you tried hooking it up the starter 12v source!? I noticed when flipped a switch to turn the fan on high speed it took up ALOT of power.. and driving at night was very hard because the fan drained the battery soo fast and the lights were dim. I just run it on low speed right now.. and it still has not gone over 190 F degrees

According to MegaSquirts website they have this listed... --------------------------------------- Rev Limiter If you are using a Spark based code, e.g. MSnS, Neon, etc, then the soft rev limiter can retard the ignition to a setpoint when the RPM reaches the Soft Limit setpoint. This can help to reduce the engine power o it begins to slow down or feel different so the driver realises they should change gear. The Hard rev limiter will come in if the RPM reaches the setpoint or if the soft limit point is maintained for as long as the max time setpoint. The hard limit can be Fuel, Spark, or a combination of the two if using a spark based code. ---------------------------------------- Now I was curious if anyone is using this and what they're settings are.. ?!?!

ohh the stock T3 can put out some power.. not as much as a hybrid.. but at 12psi.. it hauls ***

they put it on UPSIDE DOWN!! ahh.. MSA never seems to impress me

i want one too!! lol dont mean to steal ur thread.. but meee tooo!

well... i would recommend replacing the main wire from the starter with a much bigger and thicker wire.. so the 12v can be evenly spread out.. but running 7 small 12v wires out of the starter (4 to the fusible links, and 3 to your choice).. i'm not 100% sure about.. i would definatly buy a small inline fuse inbetween where you split off the 3 wires... just to make sure in case of an overload or something.. it will blow the fuse and not your ECU.