proxlamus©

How them seats working out for ya?! Got em from me on Friday yeh?

Those wheels were stolen 2 hours ago.. i found my car sitting on the concrete. damnit

it's not in the tool shed?

Alrighty.. I found some conflicting information. I can assume this is the difference from a roll *bar* vs roll cage rules?! Im a bit grumpy because I just picked up my main hoop today.. which is a 1.5" x .095" tube. The plan I have is listed below. My goal was to maintain a street car and aim for Street Modified or Street (Open) in the SOLO division. It seems.. maybe I should sell my current hoop and go with a thicker tubing?! Or would I be OK running this tubing based off my plans. Main hoop, rear attachment mounts, x-style door bars, main diagonal, horizontal harness bar and dash bar. 8 points in total. NO a-pillar bars or roof bars for road use.

Well.. with the use of a roll bar and sometimes a adjustable bike rack.. the things you can carry home in a Miata is remarkable. Here is my miata carrying home some 3 x 5 3/4" rubber mats for a Horse Stall.. but used for a gym mat. Here is my miata carrying home the main hoop for my new roll cage setup! Neat eh?!

CTL ALT DLT and close Adobe Acrobat Reader and restart it. Link works fine for me!

Hey .. neat

I used a propane torch today and a 90 degree pick... and had some really good success!! I used a heat gun along the inside of the car by the rear quarter panels. I noticed, rather then a seam sealer on the inside of the chassis, they used some white foamy sealant which was much tougher to remove. So a heat gun and a scraper, once the majority of it was removed, I used the torch and burned off all of the stuff I couldn't get! The pick came in handy. Pretty happy with the progress so far. I tried researching the most effective stitch weld technique and found varying answers. My beads so far are about 2" with a 2" gap or so. Im not using a template or measuring these beads.. rather doing it by eye. I'm considering changing this method. I've only really done the Bad Dog frame rail capping and stitching the existing frame rail flange to the chassis. But a 1" bead followed by a 1" gap seems like a good idea.

Sounds about right. That's what I got quoted from a local shop here in Denver

I was hoping that welding flat plates around the tubing would allow an exception

I started 3 threads in 2 days.. I feel like I should condense them.. but they are all different topics.. Quick question.. Some of the rules in the SCCA state: Soo.. using an example of Jon's cage.. Is this legal since it passes through the firewall? Should I simply weld a flat plate of steel against the firewall and weld the tube flush against it?

great idea with the torch rb240zdet

Currently.. where I am at.. is behind the frame rails, along the rear sub-frame as it enters the rear wheel wells and the differential mounting area's... I'm having a tough time describing it. That's not a bad idea to pry the panels up and scrape it and hammer it back down. but.. yowza.. that sounds very time consuming. Patience patience patience.

Welp.. after close to 3 years of trying to strip all of the under coating and crap from off my Z so I can seam weld the body panels and reinforcements.. ranging from chemical stripping, to wire wheels, to soda blasting, to nickel slag blasting, to grinders, to dual action sanders and dentist picks and a heat gun.. my car is ready for seam welding the over lapping panels. After welding today.. I learned that no matter how hard you try to get rid of seam sealer.. when welding, the seam sealer from underneath melts and flows into the molten puddle, contaminating my welds. It sucks.. it really really sucks. I talked to a local shop and they recommended getting 1/2" strips of metal to overlap the seam and stitch weld around that to prevent seam sealer from melting into the weld.. sounds like a good idea.. but holy cow I am not looking forward to attempting this. Any advice.. or is it inevitable that seam sealer will ruin my welds.

I was able to get some better welds today.. I used a bit more heat.. at the start of the bead I waited a few more seconds until the puddle got nice and big.. then I could weave my way along the bead with fairly good results. I started getting better welds with more heat and more time which is good. But.. I won't be doing the rest of the seams for my stitch/seam welding with this product.

Hurm.. not what I was hoping to hear. Sigh Not sure why a company would sell a product that is even pictured and advertised to weld thru.. when it barely welds.

Soo.. finally getting around to welding on my bad dog 280z frame rails.. I coated the inside of the factory rails using Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating.. then coated the outside of the chassis/frame rails with self-etching weld through primer as well as the inside of the bad dog frame rails with weld through primer. I've noticed.. with the weld through primer.. the welds seems to be a bit messy and look contaminated. A good weld to me sounds like a sizzle, but this sounds like splattered bacon. I sand blasted the area first then coated with weld through primer. After I took a wire brush to the primer, the welds were nice and smooth again. Any reason why this may be so?

wow! thats a serious rotisserie!! super super super heavy duty mounts!! puts mine to shame! Excellent work on the car so far!!

I second the dzus fasteners!

Look at instructions on how to miter trim and molding for a house! It'll give you good calculations

Pictures and some build

I haven't seen 1fastz on in a long time! Wonder where he's been?!

Why dont you give JohnC a call? He owns the shop and put together the kit! http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/user/95-johnc/ 714-299-4000

We should be talking about almost 5 different transmissions right now.. 240sx transmission Z31 300zx transmission (3 different types) Z32 300zx transmission (very different from the above) Here is some excellent information. http://www.az-zbum.com/information.transmission.shtml