LanceVance

I know I might get lynched for digging up an old thread, but has anyone managed to run EDIS-6 on an L-Series using the flywheel yet? I've been searching for days now and it seems everybody starts off looking to use the flywheel, but eventually brakes down and uses the crank pulley? I've seen a few OEMs do it, but it seems nobody trusts a machine shop to put a 36-1 pattern on their flywheel. If anybody has done this, or knows a machine shop that has done something similar for other cars please let me know. I really don't want to clutter the front of my engine when something as elegant and simple as having the VR sensor mounted to the bell housing cover seems so much more clean and logical! Thanks.

I see where you going, but that seems a little loud for my tastes... How about a dark silver with ghost style (read slghtly darker or lighter silver) Japanese maple leaves? Bride made a seat with some vintage-esq cloth with a Japanese maple leaf pattern that looked pretty nice, and I always wanted to see the theme done in paint. The Japanese zero theme could look cool, with the right shades and matte look.

Most aftermarket seats are not going to be electric, so ordering electric seats could be difficult. I am currently installing 300zx (Z32) seats into my 280z. I got two sets from the junkyard for $175 one of which had an electric drivers seat. if your car doesn't currently have the seat rails/support a competent welder should be able to make brackets that would allow for just about any electric seat. You would just be looking at the fabrication and labor costs for the installation as well as the initial cost of the seats. In other words, your best net is a tape measure and junk yard. The insulation is pretty easily removed with a rubber mallet and chisel or screwdriver. If you have trouble with that, lay some dry ice on it for a while and then try again.

I've got one I won't be using, tried the number on your post, but the person said it was the wrong number? Came off a running car that was used for drag racing, and the owner decided to go carbed (I'm keeping the beautiful n42 intake he wasn't going to use anymore though!)

Thanks Blown77Z for posting up the Wilwood info! Found out that Black Dragon Auto also has some available, pretty expensive however. Part numbers and prices below; Reservoir - $12.95 - PN: 64-132 Filter - $8.95 - PN: 55-325 Cap - $14.95 - PN: 64-134 No Clamps or O-rings listed in their catalog. www.blackdragonauto.com

Nice... I had actually seen your post, but I had already ordered mine (not to mention, I emailed Wilwood and they were pretty insistant that their reservoirs would NOT work with our MCs...) They look a little smaller maybe? Mine couldn't face in towards each other like that (they are 6.8 oz). Any chance you can post up part numbers, price, and where you ordered them? Help out anyone else shopping for these! Also, if anybody knows the size of the stock large reservoir that might be usefull information too.

Both Reservoirs on my MC crumbled when I went to remove them (upgrading to 15/16). I searched on this forum and others for a source of replacements with no avail. I did notice that Tilton had some remote reservoir inlets that apparently fit our MCs well enough, though I couldn't be sure these were the same size as the reservoirs they sell. Well, I'm glad to say I didn’t spend $40 something for no reason, because they fit wonderfully, look great, and make it much easier for me to have two large reservoirs for my rear caliper conversion ! Here is a picture, and part numbers for everything you need, incase anybody else can benefit from this information: Reservoir - $7.99 - PN:3558-MEDIUM Filter - $4.49 - PN:3559-LARGE Cap - $5.99 - PN:3564 Clamp - $1.99 - PN:3577 O-Ring - $1.49 - PN:3556 Got everything from Pegasus Racing. 15/16 MC is a refurbished unit from Oreilly.

Nice, Iv'e got one just like that as well, same color and everything. What year is yours? Mine broke down with less than 30,000 on the OD (bad carb) and the PO put it up on stands and left it!

Looks like we have similar plans for our cars (although mines at a much earlier stage compared to yours!). I plan on doing the L28et conversion with some power mods later on to fill that big gapping hole under the hood. Looks like you have bigger calipers up front, are those Toyotas?

Okay, after a few days of exhausting research I came across this: www.r1concepts.com 75' Datsun 280z slotted and drilled rotors (Part Number: EDS.42004) $92.40 (pair) 84' Nissan 300zx slotted and drilled rotors (Part Number: PDS.42021) $106.92 (pair) TOTAL: $199.32 OTD w/ free shipping SO... anyone else who is doing the 240sx/300zx rear conversion, you might consider these as well. I will be purchasing within the next few weeks and will let everyone know how it goes. Now I'm just 2 brackets, some SS lines, Pads, and a powdercoating trip away from having my brakes squared away...

Hi, I've started to gather components for my 240sx calipers / 300zx rotors conversion for my 75 280. I am to the point that I'm ready to buy rear rotors, and I figure this point would be a good time to go slotted all around (I have a bad tendency of warping rotors). I have been searching, but so far have been unable to find someone that makes both 280 fronts and 300zx rears slotted. I would like to stay with the same brand front and rear for consistencys sake. If anyone can point me in the direction of somewhere I can buy both front and rears slotted AND the same brand I would greatly appreciate it. Car is being built for open track days, weekend cruising and giving the wife gray hairs. Thanks in Advance

Hotrod magazine had a fix for this in the Jan 09' issue (part of their 101 tech tips article). More or less, the fix was to remove the door panels, use a J Hook and run an adjustable tie down strap between the two doors. gradualy tighten the strap over a few days, untill the weatherstripping is broken in. Kind of a lot of work, but I imagine it would work really well.