LanceVance

Any details on what kind of powder you used?

I've powdercoated brake calipers before and while it looks great and has nice consistent coverage, it does chip. For something thats going to be seeing time on the road I would probably go with paint just for the thicker less brittle coating. I know there are some powders that are more durable, so you might look into those if your powdercoater offers them. If your going the powder route you might also see if you can get a discount for getting all your parts done at the same time, in the same color. My powder coater will usually give me a job quote which usually works out better than the by-the-foot rate when I bring multiple items. Good luck, and post up some pictures when everythings done!

You managed to fit the L28 in there!? I've got an L20B 75' 620 and It looks tight with just the straight 4 in there. I know someone here locally tried to fit an RD28 and ended up having problems with the shift knob being so far back that it just wasn't practical without cutting up the radiator support and doing major surgery to the firewall. That being said I wish you all the luck in your project, but I'm afraid I don't have an answer for you. Have you looked at keeping the L28 bellhousing and just swapping the gearboxes? I've seen a few people on Ratsun that cut up L28 EFI intakes down to four runners and made their own turbo exhaust manifolds and turbo'd the stock truck block, have you considered that route? Might be less work in the long run...

I think a ring around the edge of the flange, along with counter-sunk holes for hex nuts Would be a nice touch.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, hope you hadn't already bought one from the wrong years. Seriously though, Pepboys has them remanufactured for $36.99 + $10.00 core. AutoZone has them for $36.99 + $4.00 core. Considering shipping from buying someone one here you'll end up paying close to that anyway, and this way you know its already rebuilt. If you reallly insist on buying off of here I can send you mine, but you'd be losing money seeing as you'd be paying shipping for something you could easily get at an auto parts store locally... (And mine is from Autozone, I used the stock 280z MC for the core which they said was fine)

Assuming the price is reasonable, I'm sure you'd have a few customers for that! I'd be down for a black anodized one...

Not sure if that one will work; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=38499

Not sure where you might see a dash, but its a regular thing in jewelry boxes, and little trinket boxes and the like. Chances are you have something in your house with flocking already. Some nicer poker sets have flocking instead of felt too... even t-shirts. Check the little cubbys and gloveboxes in nicer cars, they have it too.

Flocking is essentially a spray on suede like material. Its used in a lot of applications, most associated with crafts (and Christmas trees) but it is also used by a lot of rally cars for giving their dashboards a uniform and durable coating while reducing glare most importantly of all. its use in rally cars has made it pretty popular with the Subaru crowd, and if you do some searching on Subie forums I'm sure you can get more information than I can offer. I pulled this picture off of NASIOC; The owner referenceed DonJer.com as where he bought the tools and materials. I believe the total for everything was around $90.00 with even cheaper options than that. I will be ordering from them in a month or two once I find the time to take my dash out and fiberglass it.

PM'd

Steering column gauge pod might be good experience... just a suggestion!

Fauxre, have you considered flocking your dash? I plan on doing exactly the same process you did on my dash, but flocking it black. Looks nice, zero glare, and you can redo it if you have to. How much material did you let wrap around to the underside? Any concerns with the fiberglass resin staying adhered to the original vinyl?

Here's some pictures:

This thread gives the spacing, as well as a fuel rail bracket design to use when fabricating your own fuel rail (Nice drawings and everything). http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/84860-o-ring-fuel-rail-fabrication/ Just incase anybody else is looking for this information...

Still looking for one? I've got a very clean N42 non EGR manifold that I was going to shave, but I ended up getting another one that was already ported out to match a larger Weber throttle body, so I'm going to be shaving that one. It is very clean and painted an aluminum silver, although the paint is missing where I started to file down the casting marks. None of the bungs or linkage holders have been touched yet, just casting marks. If you plan on having someone else do the work for you let me know, I'll send you both of my N42's to be shaved, and you can send me the ported one back, and we'll call it even? Not sure how much that kind of work runs, but it might be worthwhile? Let me know and we'll work something out. I've also got a 240sx throttle body (without the sensor) on the manifold, would you be wanting that too? Will have pics later today If you haven't already worked something out with cockerstar (Cockerstar how did those caps work out? any update on the strutbars?)

Some fuel cell companies will make a unit to fit your spare tire well, little more expensive and less capacity, but no cutting metal involved...

Thanks for all your input, I wasn't really expecting such a comprehensive list of answers! It seems that my best bet is going to be sorting out the GM sensor first like you said, and then work around the remaining spots and their sizes, I was under the impression it was a direct fit so I hadn't been too concerned with it, but I guess that's just the three bolt housing like you said. Guess I'm going to have to get some definitive answers on the sizes and threads. I'll go to my machinist and have him clean and chase the threads (they need it anyway) and let me know their sizes. Will post up here once I know.

Well, normally that would all be true, but the engine and tranny are already out and separated. I've got a 240sx transmission waiting to have its gearbox put on the 280z bellhousing, so I'm already doing work to the transmission. This isn't a daily driver, so there are no time constraints, so why not do it this way from the get go?

Ok, first a little bit of background; I purchased this engine partially disassembled, and have never had an engine in the shell I’m restoring, so I’m still foggy on where every hose and wire runs. I plan on running MS and EDIS-6 from the get go, using stock gauges, and not running a cold start valve (desert). I also don’t plan on having AC or the heater put back in. When I purchased the engine most of the sensors in the thermostat housing were removed, or had broken clips, which is fine as I would rather have everything in my electrical system new, as I hate chasing down electrical gremlins caused by old/bad components. Pictures! Now for the Questions; 1. I understand that the upper left hole is used for the gauge sender, however this is one of the items removed before I had the engine. I’ve found one on MSA, but it is part of a kit for V8 conversion kit (although it says it is still the stock sensor, just with an adapter) will this work for me? Is there anywhere to just get the sensor? Link Below. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PRC01/10-1878 2. The upper right hole is used for the coolant bypass. I plan on still running an external bypass, despite there is also an internal bypass, but I’ve had a hard time finding tube fittings in metric sizes. Does anyone know where to get these? What size would I need? 3. The lower left hole is used for the Thermotime switch, which I don’t plan on using, but what size is this threaded for? I know that for MS it would be better for me to use a GM style sensor, is this where it would go? Would this be an appropriate sensor? Link Below. https://www.034motorsport.com/034efi-engine-management-engine-management-sensors-gm-style-water-temp-sensor-p-406.html 4. The lower right hole is used for fan controls. I have found a Honda sensor that I believe is the correct size and thread pitch, but I’m not sure. It is listed to be used for radiator fans, and has an activation temp range of 70-75 °C, which I’ve read is about where you want it? I plan on using MSA’s duel fan aluminum radiator with this. I would rather not have MS activate the fan, If I can keep it as just having a sensor and not a computer do it. Link Below. http://www.autoparts007.com/oem_37780-PA6-003/Detail_6581_Temperature-Switch.html 5. The hole on the side is used to adjust timing for the distributor, so I only need to plug this, however I thought it might be cool to use one of these to see the coolant flowing (plus I love spending money needlessly ), what size thread is this? Link Below. http://www.jwwinco.com/products/section12/gn743.2/index.html 6. What is this sensor? It was attached to the Thermostat Housing. I’ve searched and come up with nothing: 7. What is this part called, and where can I get a new one? It was on the other side of the block, and was completely clogged and corroded. 8. The thermostat housing was taken off when I got it, what size are the two bolts that hold it to the engine? 9. Okay, final question! How do I make links without giving the entire address! I’ve seen everyone posting links with one clickable word! Thanks to everyone in advance for your help!

Look forward to seeing this as it progresses. Any chance you might make a steering column clamshell with a pod for a boost gauge? I've been looking at making one, but I don't have the know-how or equipment that you do.

Just get a same year booster, and if you really feel the need to upgrade get a 15/16 Master Cylinder off of an early 280zx. You can get them new (well, rebuilt) both booster and MC from AutoZone or any similar store. If your not upgrading your calipers or going rear disk there really isn't going to be advantages to doing this (firmer pedal, probably too firm for stock brakes). If your booster is just rusty, you can sand it down, and paint it black with engine enamel, which is what I did and mine looks brand new. Pegasus Racing has new reservoirs: Reservoir - $7.99 - PN:3558-MEDIUM Filter - $4.49 - PN:3559-LARGE Cap - $5.99 - PN:3564 Clamp - $1.99 - PN:3577 O-Ring - $1.49 - PN:3556 That’s all the information you need to replace your booster and MC, its all been covered here before... Hope it helps, but researching for a few days before you spend any of your money is really the way to go. The information is out there, you just need to take the time to find it!

I want to run an electric fan and use the thermostat housing sensor bungs, seeing as how I won't be using a bunch of them anyway. I think I found a switch with the appropriate range and thread size: HONDA OEM - 37780-PA6-003 Lists activation temperature as 70°-75°C (158° - 167° F) M16x1.5 thread size. Average price is around 40+ Would this work? anybody have anything more appropriate seeing as how this thread has gone a while without any developments?

Lowrider, excerpt from TWM website "Does TWM make other throttle bodies not intended for carburetor replacement? Yes, TWM manufactures several dedicated injection manifolds to convert engines to individual runner EFI for racing purposes. We also make the 2000 Series throttle bodies which are dedicated injection manifolds for Honda, Ford, VW, and others. TWM also produces some large bore single barrel units which have many applications and several throttle bodies for upgrading original equipment EFI systems including the “Big Throat†throttle bodies for Datsun Z cars." http://twminduction.com/faq/throttle_body_faq.html I can't find anything about different butterflys or differences in manufacturing, but I'm inclined to think that if TWM used Weber's design that Weber's name would stay on the TB. It looks like Weber and TWM teamed up on a lot of things, although now TWM is owned by Borla.

Well, the idea of running a cable setup beneath the intake manifold was something I had considered for a while, but I've yet to figure out if I would have clearance issues with the Turbo manifold, and if I could work out the connection to the TB without any kinks. If I was to go cable, I would want it hidden as much as possible. It looks like most people that do cable conversions have it running on the outer side of the intake, and that wouldn't work with this TB as the linkage is on the inner side? If i could route it to the TB under the intake and then have a loop that would allow for the cable to pull down on the throttle arm, that might work, and there is even a vacuum port on that on the TB that I will end up plugging that would give me some mounting space... Not sure what kind of effect that sharp of a bend would have on the cable action though? Anybody run a throttle cable setup like this??

It's not loose or cracked, but considering I'm going to take everything apart for plating and sandblasting, I just didn't want to bolt on the old yellowed plastic pieces onto fresh new looking parts. I've looked at some Weber parts on Redline and It looks like they have some linkage rods that should be able to replace the whole rod. I just need to figure out what size. Looking at something like this (Weber site wasn't loading picutres as I wrote this for some reason): http://www.advancedautomotives.com/weber-throttle-linkage-rod-428-p.asp As for the TPS, I figure it will probably be better If I just find a new one off of a ZX from the JY. Thanks much hughdogs!