LanceVance

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Airtex-E8375-Electric-Fuel-Pump-/130476457508#ht_1537wt_1021 This is the pump you should need, along with a list of compatible vehicles. Using this list should help you in the junkyard. Tried to copy directly to my post, but the list is in an excell style frame, and comes out all jumbled on here ...

What I was really trying to point out that you could use the KA transmission on your L28... You mentioned your transmission was giving you problems, so that's why I suggested that. They are cheap for a reason, everybody swaps them out few swap them in, so if you have more transmission problems later its can easy cheap fix because there is little demand. Use what you can off of the sx and sell what you can't, use the proceeds to fund your L28. You can easily make $300 back selling parts. I'm not sure what the cost of swapping in the KA would be, but when you already have money invested in your L I don't see the point. Swapping is always going to have more costs associated with it. Your doing something custom which is almost always going to cost more than a bolt in solution.

I guess he didn't like my suggestion?

My .02, Use components that came from cars with mechanical controls. Im talking about the type that used cables attached to the knobs you were turning. This will make adaptation between components and controls easier, allowing you to mismatch in your favor. Also, look for modern cars as donors, so you can recharge easily. Your going to end up fabricating, so don't limit yourself to Nissan unnecessarily, Honda's apparently have components similar in size to the s30 pieces they will replace, so that might be worth exploring. Also, some car models are available with AC control relocation panels (usually used when you need a double din for ICE but, the kits are usually in a din format themselves. This might make it easy to get controls into the S30 dash without any cutting or fiberglass, etc...

Andy, paint looks beautiful... showroom shine is something you rarely see on our cars, but when you see it you know someone put some serious dedication into it. Engine looks good too, just be sure to get a video of it running and post it up here!

Jon's recommendation is all I need. I guess I'll give this thread a while to see if anyone posts another source, but if nothing comes up I might have to get these too...

Here's a picture of the front rotor (4x4 non- vented), please excuse the poor quality camera phone pic...

Almost $200 shipped for something that does the same job as a part you already have, and doesn't do anything performance wise... that's a hard pill to swallow. That being said it the tension bars are a pain to work with, plus it might make it easier to place an intercooler, and I'm already removing the hinges to have them replated... Might have to look around for another source, or bite the bullet with these... anybody ever order from these guys before?

If you can get the LD28s cheap then buy both, pull the cranks, sell the cranks each for 500 on here, sell whatever else you can off them (water pumps and intake manifolds seem to get interest) and use that money to fund the L28et build. This is of course assuming you can get them cheap enough to justify the work... It would be a shame to put down two good running engines however, I'm not sure how sentimental you are....

Keep the L28et it will be easier in the end and you already have money in it. KA's are a dime a dozen. Take the gearbox and put it on your Z's 5 speed bellhousing. Its not quite bolt on, but close enough. Best part is KA transmissions can be regularly had for under $100. I had a guy deliver one to my door for $60 he was so eager to get rid of it. Point is once you have the bellhousing set up you can replace gearboxes cheaply enough. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/index.html - Here's the instructions. You can probably swap out other parts (seats, rear calipers, etc) sell parts on here, and scrap the shell and walk away with more money than you paid for it.

Glad to hear it, I've gone through cans of the stuff during the tear down process on my Z. Absolutely wonderful stuff... Just remember to wipe off the excess, if it gets dirt on it while its still wet it can end up just making things a greasy muddy mess.

So lets assume there are no incandescent bulbs left in the entire circuit you wish to have dimming capabilities with. what exactly do you recomend to the avererage joe-schmoe who doesn't know what he's looking at when he goes to radio shacks parts bin? I'm sure I could spend $100 and still not get the correct components. Please forgive my ignorance of electronics, but I could google "variable duty cycle PWM circuit" till the cows come home and would probably end up just like the OP with misguided or outright wrong assumptions about what I'm doing. The spirit of this forum is to create a collective of information, not put down people who don't know any better. Why not put up the information if you care to share it rather than just doom this thread to the shed? Maybe if we answered the majority of these questions here it wont come up again, and you can direct your "grrrs!" elsewhere. I don't mean to be confrontational if its coming off that way, but this is something I'm also interested in doing, and like the OP only have a limited (call it near non-existant) working knowledge of electric components. Or would you prefer more BS be posted to misguide the next guy?

Was it improperly wired from the factory, or had the dash wire harness been worked on before? My dash is out right no so I might do this, but I never want to have to take it out once it goes back in. Were they all the same bulb type? Part #? Glad you got it worked out, good call on bjhine's part!

WD40 and Duct tape, the two most important all encompassing tools at mans disposal. If you don't already have them both just laying around then its about time you go take care of it...

Does it have any manufacturers information on it? Can you post pictures of them? Iv'e been trying to find a set of conversion lamps with a blinker and a glass lense... I'm sort of picky, I only want to use something that has the same "texture" in the lense glass as the stockers, so in all outward appearances they look stock.

Lol, I was waiting to see what you had to say to that Tony... so these early morning rapid succession postings... are they a just got up, or just going to bed thing...? I can't help but notice that around this time when I push the new content button it jumps from near nothing to 10 plus! Oh, and Paul... It's a Walther, not a glock, dawg!

Try wiring your LEDs with the stock bulbs in line with them. If they work then, then you need a resistor.

Yeah, starting with the mega manual is kind of like starting with the high dive when your learning to swim. I would suggest starting with the stickys in the MegaSquirt sub forum, and looking at different members build threads to get a basic understanding first. By the way, the car is beautiful, wish there were more green ones around. Love the colormatched valve cover.

Best bet to let that engine really do what its capable of, would be to ditch the stock ECU. With all that's been done to the engine, I'm surprised there's no better form of fuel/spark control. Megasquirt would be good, not to mention you have lots of info here to help along the way.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/89143-240sx300zx-brake-conversion-question/page__fromsearch__1 This is from when I was buying all my brake upgrades... they seem like quality rotors, and I bet they have the 280zx rotors you need too. Shipping was fast and everything was well packaged.

http://www.race-mart.com/GM_Performance_Parts-GMP-19201990.html - GM LS9 Crate Engine! Half the price of what your talking about, and a helluva' lot more reliable I'm sure. Biggest problem you'll have is not twisting your car in two. I know this is in the RB Forum, and I'm all about keeping the Z a straight six, but this is Sooooooo much more practical than mating MB parts to an RB. Thousands of man hours were spent on each of these engines, if the technology was so simple that someone with 50k could swap parts and make it work on any engine, don't you think more people would be doing it? Not to mention the tuning nightmare that thing would turn out to be... I'm just saying, taking a 30K+ engine, and turning it into a Frankenstein project sounds like a serious waste of time/money/effort/good parts to me...

Looks like APR universal carbon fiber racing mirrors... I've got the same ones waiting in a box for my car to be painted.

Yep, I'm sure Ken wants one of these now that you have that pretty crankshaft... He probably wants that steering column gauge pod too... Best get on it.

Those BMW sidemarkers? I planned on doing the exact same thing... beat me to it!