Lone_Star

PM replied.

I am looking for a N42, non-EGR intake manifold. If you have one that is shaved already, or modified for cable linkage, I would be interested in those options as well. Thanks!

PM sent

I have one available, just posted in the 'For Sale' section. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/118992-stroker-parts-turbo-parts-and-carb-parts/

I have one posted in the 'For Sale' section - and am in the DFW area also.

PM sent regarding the harness.

PM sent regarding louvers.

PM sent on the intake and carb.

I had my factory compressor rebuilt by a local company in Fort Worth - Yellow Rose. After the second rebuild in a year due to leaking, I swapped it with a Sanden unit. A couple of new rubber hoses made to match the old lines and the new compressor, a little time adapting the stock compressor bracket, and it was good to go. Unless you are going for originality, I would go for the Sanden compressor.

I have the the same spoiler mounting issue, but another question also - the contour of the underside of the spoiler does not match the hatch; the spoiler is a flatter contour. Do I just bolt it down, seal the edge, and move on, or should I shape it working from the center out to match the hatch?

Interesting setup, and price. I would be interested in more detail and photos of the choke cable setup and installation as well as the linkage setup. It looks like it is attached to the heat shield under the carbs. Did he use the linkage mounts from the kit, or make his own from other parts?

I have an Arizona Z 4bbl intake and a set of MSA 3-2 coated headers that I would like to install on my 260Z. I have done a temporary install on a spare engine to check fit and have interference between the #2 header tube and the #3 intake runner. I have searched and found a couple mentions of this issue with the resolution being to dimple the header. Since mine are coated, I would rather not go that route. I have considered grinding the intake to make clearance, but will likely go through and then need it welded. I called Dave at AZC and he said he did not know which brands of headers clear, and which don't. They also do not carry headers any more that do clear. So, for those that are running an AZC intake and headers, what did you do about clearance issues, or what headers are you running that do not interfere? Also, if I do grind the intake to make clearance, how much space is enough - 1/4", 1/8", etc? BTW - this is on an N47 round port head and round port headers if that matters.

My understanding is that the pre '77 cars are that way. You have to lock them from inside once the door is closed (typically the passenger door), or lock with the key from outside. The '77-78 cars have a different mechanism and latch that allow you to lock the door, then close it while holding the outside handle up to lock it. The '78 I had worked that way, and my son's '74 has to be locked with the key from outside.

Is this by chance the one offered recently on Craigslist by a guy in Plano? I tried to get some info on it when it was posted, but the seller did not have pics and could not give me an idea of what he wanted for it. Do you mind telling us what you paid for it?

I like to see what other people ride and there are some nice bikes, road, mountain, and hybrids. I have been riding road bikes and occasionaly a mountain for about 5 years. The mountain I bought new and is a Specialized Hardrock Comp with discs, a nice hardtail with good brakes. My roadie is an '88 Cannondale that is too big for me (a 61cm, need a 54, but hey, it was free) but it works. Two years ago I got my now 16 yr old son into riding and he has a new Trek 1000. Just 4 days ago I bought a '91 Trek 1000 for my 12 yr old daughter to ride. We ride around the country and get in 10-15 mile rides and do the local charity rides. I ride longer distances when I can and usually ride 40-50 miles for the charity rides. My son used to join me (and beat me) on the longer rides, but is now helping out his sister in getting the hang of things. I cant commute to work as the 35 miles through heavy city traffic does not work, but try to get out and ride as often as the North Texas heat will allow.

I went through this when rebuilding a 5spd about three months ago. I bought a rebuild kit from Autozone that had all the correct bearings (good quality Koyos), seals, and the gasket for the front cover. They also have repair instructions that I used and they were real close to correct for me. I own several pullers, and now a new shop press (another story that involves a transmission), but only used a cheap puller to do mine. Just take your time, stack the gears, spacers, bearings, etc in the order they come off, facing the direction they came off, or put scribe marks on them to keep them facing the correct direction. I dont remember having to use heat to get anything apart or together, but sometimes it helps. If there is a transmission shop near you, they can help with the pressing on/off of bearings if you cant do it yourself. Here is a link to the Autozone kit, and on the same page is a link to the detailed diagrams and repair instructions.