crapforum

Stock truck manifolds will fit, you need to chop/grind the normal flanges that are triangular, they will hit the frame. Once you do that they clear but don't have the mounting bolts. So you can weld the stock downpipe to them and then weld a flange to that.

What do you mean exactly? The factory tune is a blend of both. The MAF will kick on at 4000RPM + and the speed density will handle everything below. Even when operating in MAF only mode the SD tables will be utilized in calculations. The MAF is in general not as accurate at low speeds hence why the factory does this, but a bunch of lazy "tuner shops" will default the tune to MAF only mode since all they have to do is modify the MAF airflow vs frequency table to get it to run proper air fuel ratio.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201069725867?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT This is the one I got. It, like the Champion counterpart, come with a odd metric fitting for the tranny cooler that does not exist in the real world. I cut it off an welded an aluminum AN -6 bung on there. Otherwise its awesome, fit is perfect, cooling is amazing, my cooling fan hardly ever cuts on. My 240z has the stock radiator and big electric fan, which is barely adequate. On the real hot days when your not moving much the system can't keep up and can overheat, plus the fan is on all the time. I recommend this fan: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-620-118. It is the popular 2 speed Ford fan that moves a shit ton of air, shroud fits the radiator very well, and is very cheap.

This may help you : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-Rear-Clip-Body-Section-70-73-/152157741791?hash=item236d4ee2df:g:SqsAAOSwEjFXfWvI&vxp=mtr

I was going to get the rear AZC setup to match but like I said, need to swap my rearend first (diff). As soon as the right 8.8 pops up in the junkyard I am grabbing it and fabbing some mounts. Will almost certainly use a hub from some other vehicle, so any of these kits that were meant for the rear for a Z car will not work. Believe me I know all about brake bias, had a Camaro that the exhaust come loose, beat the rear brake line that goes over the axle and puncture it. Found this out when it was a rainy day... cost me a new wheel in the end.

I just replaced my stock front brakes with the Arizona Z car kit, the standard one not the 6 piston one. Wanted to just say the fit is great, the look is great, and most importantly the stopping power is great. I swapped in a Wilwood 1" master while I was at it, not sure what people are talking about having hard pedals and wanting bigger brake boosters or anything. The brakes pedal feels great with this combo and the stock 240z booster. Took about a day driving in for everything to brake in after initial install, but damn these things lock the front tires so easily! To those who say stock Z brakes are fine, no, just no, try doing a 100mph to 0 zero stop and tell me they are fine. Now to sort out my rear end so I can upgrade those drums. Had to pick up some new wheels too to fit the brakes, running rota rb 16x7 +4 with 225-50-16s. Had passenger side barely rubbing the lower front fender at certain steering angles, some light massaging cleared that up.

I don't think you can change username, but yes these things can be knocked out pretty quick with enough determination (your going to need a lot of it) and know how. Knowing the wiring helps a lot, not really much else that can be done wrong.

Do you mean drive by wire? If it were drive by cable you could use the stock one

The issue with the cx kit is the mount. It slopes backwards and will hit the compressor with a low mount design. Maybe if there is a snubby compressor it will work, but definately not with the truck compressor. Maybe if you could get a crank pulley with an extra serpentine row further out it could allow you to space the compressor forward enough.

My R180 and stock crappy axle u joint things have been surviving my 400whp motor. I never have dumped the clutch, and I roll into the throttle from a stand still. Tires will start to spin if I give it to much gas to soon anyway so I'm not going any slower. I think so long as you don't want to drag race you can get by on anything.

If anyone wanted some more details: Exhaust is stock truck manifolds, with flanges cut off and downpipe welded to them. Dual 2.5" into 3" out the back External fuel pump with corvette regulator Stock 280z tranny crossmember drilled to bolt to 4l60e (t56 has same mount spacing) and then ears made and welded to tranny tunnel to fasten it Ebay knock off Champion radiator with tranny cooler LS3, cam, springs, oil pan, pushrods, valley cover Stock TBSS style intake and manifold Stock trailblazer shifter Modified stock wiring harness. Shortened Aluminum Trailblazer driveshaft Car drives well, no vibrations, quite fast. Dealing with a shift flare between 2-3 on WOT, maybe overfilling tranny a little will solve it, maybe need a new servo or something. Bumping up the shift pressure 5% for the 2-3 shift seemed to help a little --update* Tranny fluid was low, dipstick kept reading in the middle of the cold mark, kept adding more and more fluid, kept reading the same. Ended up having to add 5 more quarts to get it to move higher and now it shifts fine. 9 quarts in total added. Front Caliper is dragging, have AZC kit coming for my 240z, will then put my old 240z fronts on here. About to grab some speedhut gauges for it, then will focus on mating the trailblazer AC components to the Datsun ones. Passes the 10 foot test. Eventually will get around to modifying the hood to fit. Also have an air dam for the front of it.

Whats the problem with a mechanical pump? Clearance issues? Mechanical pumps can easily support big horsepower..

You'd honestly be better off buying the ls3 crate motor, t56 magnum, and a full swap kit like cxracing and pay someone the labor. You'll get much more power, and strength at about the same cost. Plus it would be brand new... Also those guys look like a piece of crap, they say the LS1 "produces 405hp stock!", which is a complete lie. If they bs on something that simple they are going to bs on a lot of other things. Stock LS3 components will outperform pretty much any aftermarket LS1 upgrade.

Done.

Is that 12k for parts and labor? Or just labor? Id expect you to spend at least 12k in parts for an LS3 swap.