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About Evlevo

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  • Birthday September 30

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    Manitoba Canada

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  1. That seatbelt mount looks damn near OEM. If i didnt know any better id say it was. Good work! Bookmarked for when i get around to the seatbelt point of my build. Must have been in a different seat thread, but last year i posted a picture of 2010 wrx seats in my z. IIRC they are slightly narrower than the stock z seat and fit quite well.
  2. I think i know the spot you mean. Panels like that usually use a foam glue not just a foam pad. Heres the stuff we have at my work for that. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Flexible-Foam/?N=5002385+3293193646&rt=rud Most people dont have the applicator gun. Id recommend maybe cutting up a piece of Box Cap Tape and using that on the little plate.
  3. Looks amazing! I like the flag on the underside of the hood.
  4. If you haven't tried it already, i would recommend heading down to your local paint supplies store and trying some gun wash. That's usually our go to for stubborn glue residue.
  5. Does it click if you latch it manually? As in by hand, not closing the door on the striker.
  6. Im digging the price on those. Thats kinda where im at with my s13 suspension. Cut knuckles to correct the ackerman, or pickup drift knuckles with No ackerman, or adjustable ackerman.
  7. I use them at work from time to time, most lock rods and handle rods are very close in size. Check out your favourite body shop or car dealer, they may have something close that will work. At my shop we have a cabinet of clips and there is 4 or 5 different sizes. usually one works.
  8. I did this swap on a Z im restoring. Front and rear. This isnt a beginners project, but not as bad as i expected going into it. Anyone who says it will hang low or sit like a truck is talking out their ass. Mine sits basically flush with the bottom of the car, as it does in the s13/14. I thought about starting a thread to combined all the info i found and discuss the things i ran into but never got around to it. **I would recommend this only if someone was doing the work on their own car** The rear subframe took me about 8-10 hrs, over 5 days. not including running the brakes. I was on vacation and would go inside when i figured i had too many beers to be working under a car. I would also recommend using a parts car. I bought a junk 240sx with some aftermarket goodies (coilovers) on it for 500 bucks. I stripped it of the parts i needed and sold the rest of the car for 400 bucks.
  9. Not much to explain really. Everything column related on my car is trashed. The switches were bad, theres play in the column itself, was missing the key, and the wheel was destroyed. I also did a full front and rear s13 suspension swap on my car, so im not limited by trying to stay original, and since the wiring in the car was also trashed, i plan to use a column from something else (most likely a sentra) andd gain the modern wheel and functioning switches. I considered buying a smashed car and using a column and body harness from it but im not sure if modding a harness or a custom harness will be more work.
  10. One of 100 names for the same product really. My work is a 3m shop. Id recommend most of their products.
  11. Epoxy should go without saying, Most of these products wont stick to bare metal, but you know rockershutz is just gravel guard in a schutz gun thats allowed to be thinned for different textures right?
  12. Anythings possible with enough time and money lol. I personally havent seen a 370z in a s30 done before, but modern Column upgrades for the wheel, switches and ignition are very common in classic cars. For example This guys full r32 interior swap.... and whole car. http://jdm-culture.com/adree-hamid-r32-in-disguised-s30-240z/ For my restoration i actually plan to do something similar. I have my eyes on a sentra ser column. My ignition, switches and wheel were trashed so im starting fresh with something more modern.
  13. If you insist on using raptor liner id recommend prepping it more aggressively than the instructions recommend. Its a heavy bodied product and i dont think the scotch pad prep is really enough for it. Also how you discribed undercoat is exactly what it is and why you need to know what products do and which ones are best for your application. The "never fully cure products are ment to be additional corrosion protection ontop of your hard coats. Hell you can use used oil technically. Im sure a lot of us have made the mistake (yes including me) of grabbing an undercoat can instead of a gravel guard can and spent messy hours cleaning it off.
  14. Lizard skin seems to be a good choice. Never personally used it but its designed for what people seem to miss use other products for. Worth noting, not all bed liners are hard. Lots of bed liners are thin, and often heavily textured for excellent grip and not really good for under cars but good in boxes. There are some thick rubbery ones like Reflex that are super flexible and softer. We use it at my work. Ive made bushings with it. IIRC it also has a heat resistance property and is self extinguishing if its exposed to a flame.
  15. If you lost me when i said column in reference to the steering column im sorry but i think this project may be best left to a professional. Having full function of the applicable features will require rewiring youre whole wipre stock, signal stock, ignition, and steering wheel stuff. Ontop of that custom mounting and welding of the shafts.
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