tightywhitey185

Ok so ive put A few miles on the new AZC brake setup with the stock early 74 MC and the pedal feel stinks.Its mushy and the majority of its braking force is a little after half pedal throw.Im not real thrilled with the feal but it sure does work.I had to bleed the crap out of the system becuase it seems to hold unample fluid for this upgrade.It sure does stop like a mother tho!Like i said the feel kinda sucks but when you mash that thing it will rip your eyeballs out!Does anyone know if this brake setup could be potentially bad for the stock MC over time.ie seals go out or who knows.It def works and ill probably upgrade to something else but in the mean time i was conserned with the stock MC.Wonder if it will last a while?

Sounds good...Im gonna work it out and see what it does.

Ive Got the 1 Inch MC from willwood in the box but might take it back tomorrw to jegs.Dave from AZC said the willwood 1 Incher might actually be too big for the brake setup he offers.Im rinning 12.2 rotors all around with 4 piston calipers all around.He was concerned running the willwood would cuase a very stiff pedal unless upgrading to a larger booster as stated in the sticky about this topic.Im gonna give the stock early 260z MC a shot.Im just concerned that its an old MC

Ive read through the 1 inch willwood MC sticky before and i was sold.I called dave at arizona zcar yesterday and actually told me to try the stock MC for a while.HMM.

Im finishing my break swap on My early 1974 260z from the stock set up to the Arizona Z car set up wich includes the 12.2 inch rotors front and rear with the Wilwood 4 piston calipers front and rear and so have you.It recommends a 79-81 ZX master cylinder wich everyone knows but I cannot seem to find one new or remanufactured through the auto parts stores.I have seen the wilwood setup offered from Jegs mentioned in other threads thru searches and I am considering it .My questions follow...... Is it absolutely crucial to run a bigger MC with this brake setup and why? What aftermarked companies offer a MC upgrade with new or reconned parts? Anyone who has purchased an AZC brake kit what master cylinder are you running?

Looks great.Ill bet you are flying high after a new paint job.

Thats about as low as i can go without flares.If i cut and flare with the zgs i can drop about another 2 inches i think.it sits a bit high now but its def drivable.Its rubs in the rear sometimes if im being rediculious on speed bumps or turning wildly.the fronts rub on curbs for driveways but its really drivable.im guessing ill have to stiffin up a good bit to lower it and flare it.-13 offset front -19 rear.Running a 255 40 17 front and a 275 40 17 rear.Rota RBRs.

On my 1974 datsun 260z im runing the rota RBR 9 front 9 and a half rear 17s with arizona zcar coilovers front and rear with weld in camber plates all around.250lbs springs all around with the dampers clicked to 4 out of 12 on the shocks.No fender flares"wich im soon doing"

Sometimes i wonder if dave holds out on the good stuff for the prefered customers.

I ordered a set from AZC and dave told me the same.The mechanical Parking brake wont be ready till "March" he said.

would it hurt to shop for multiple estimates from 3 or 4 shops?That seems spendy.

Pictures please.

Another one.

There it is.

I was in the same deal.I wanted a set up that was easy and reliable.I ended up talking to dave at Arizona z car and went with the holly set up.yesterday it was 4 degrees outside and decided to run the car because its been sitting a while.It fired right up with no problems.I literally bought the kit bolted it on,walked into jegs and bought my holly and there ya go.The only tuning I did was adjust to lean it or richen it played with the dizzy and that's it no joke.Grant it the motor was all freshly rebuilt.The only thing I don't like is that the kit is slightly spendy and its not as pretty as a set of DCOE's or Su's but the reliability and holly parts availability sold me instantly.

A little small hail repair on the roof.

This is a dent on a Scion TC door.This was very challenging because access was extremely limited behind the panel due to a big fat crash brace behind the dent.I actually pulled the door Händel out and went through the access hole on the jamb.

There it is

I havnt updated this in a while so here is another before and after.This is a Hyundai Tiburon.this was a small basketball sized dent in the quarter.This took 2 hours to repair.I accessed it all by removing the tail light.

My instinct said if I want it low and stiff......coilovers.there is still a chance that I can do this with springs tho.

Let me be specific.The car is actually an early 74 260 Z.I might experiment with cutting the stock springs to my desired height.where it really needs to sit will in fact cuase the tires to scrub but its fine because I won't drive it till I cut it and flare it.In fact as of now when I drive it,if I get too rowdy around corners the rears scrub the wells a bit from the fact the rear springs are shot! What are the negative side affects of running cut springs guys?

I have purchased the rota rbr wheels from the group buy on this site and before I cut for my zg flares the next logical step it seems is to lower the car before commiting to cutting my quarters and fenders.I have been searching around on msa and found the eibach springs will lower the car about 1 -1/2 inches from stock.it just feels like 2 inches will be needed to do my flairs justice.does anyone have any experience with lowering a z with the rotas with Zg flairs?mind that my suspension is completely stock other then the fact ill use lowering springs.what springs should I use and how low should I go for this combo to look and function properly?thanks.I attached a photo.tell me what you guys think.

In my opinion having a couple huge hits is better then about 300 dime size dents per panel.

That's big hail dude.I'm a pdr tech out of Ohio and our hail team is working out there now.did it only hit on those 3 spots?

Jim thanks for the input.It is in fact a one pickup dizzy so like you said its probably out of a later 280.Ill wire it back the way it is.As for the actual temp sensor below The thermostat,Do i run the yellow wire back to that?I think thats how someone had that rigged before.wheres that little yellow guy gonna go?