giorgio61

Some budgets are just bigger than mine! (no pun intended... Awesome build. PM me when you're ready to sell your old L24 SU induction.

Take your hose to your local auto part store. 99.9% of the time you will find a similar hose with a deeper bend or one slightly longer side that will solve your problem. I've done that more than once.

Here in Houston, anywhere from 300 to 1000 depending on the JY.

Just installed chrome, no issues so far

I believe they are NLA

Good tips never die...

Megajolt EDIS? perhaps, its a small case.

There is no mounting point on the L28 block, The dizzy goes on the timing cover and has is a gasket (between the timing cover and the distributor base). Mine came in the head gasket set, and it also comes in the timing cover gasket set. Then is the o-ring at the distributor shaft and the base. Its a very easy gasket to make as Wizard said. But if you really want it, the cover gasket set is under 10 bucks.

Try to lube the back of the latch, the lock rod lever is probably sticking or worn and and only moves when you close the door and the latching action forces it up all the way.

Only one guy left here in HOU with any z stuff, very pricey, and forget sheetmetal Houston weather will not let anything out in the open last more than a couple of years...it sucks!

Floorboards, rails and door sills are fairly simple pieces, so when I discovered that my door sills were very rusted, mostly due to years of moisture seeping thru damaged door seals, I went to a local sheet metal fabricator (mine does HVAC ducting and rooftop curbs) with some drawing and measurements. My floor pans were not rusted but were pretty banged up, so I decided not to cut anything there but to straighten the floor pans and add longer rails on top of the originals. They made me the (full lenght) rails out of 16ga steel and door rails out of 20ga., probably out of left over material. One small improvement I had them include in the sills, was a foldover crimp on the standing seam to avoid future door seal leaks into the side rails and rocker panels. Total cost $40.00

Yell away my friend!...just trying to improve an old recipe.

Thanks Xnke, it doesnt seem longer to me but I will measure it today. I dont want to go thru the trouble of modifying anything (my son need the car for college!)

My son bought us a 5sp for our project 240, today after due cleaning I pulled the speedo cog to make sure it matches my diff, well it had a 4.11 ratio cog (red). I have no idea what car it this box came from or what the gear ratios are perhaps a late 200sx? but then the case looks early 5sp (wide ratio). Suggestions anyone on how to ID it? Also I noticed it has 3 different switches on one side, I pretty sure one is for the backup lights, one probably a neutral safety and the other? I'll get a pic tomorrow maybe that will help. Thanks

There are many alternatives from 60amp Z alternator all the way to 100+amp GM (yes GM) units, it all depends on your budget, mechanical skills and mostly your needs or future needs, such lighting upgrades, stereos/amplifiers, cooling fans etc.. Do an alternator upgrades search and you will find many well documented threads.

Anyone seen one like this in Houston?...

How I did my 240 tails: 1) Remove the chrome strip, a one way lock washer in the back of the housing must be removed, is deep in a recess of the housing, if you break it, and you probably will due to where its placed, don't worry, the trim can be glued back. 2) Just place the tailight under the kitchen faucet and let the hot water run for a few minutes, it will soften the sealant enought to pull the lens off. 3) Wash, clean and polish the lens I used a drill mounted polishing wheel and some turtle wax, if there are deep scratches, sand with 600 grit all the way to 1500 grit then polish at slow speed and constant movement otherwise you will burn the plastic. 4) On the bottom of the housing and the bottom of the lenses there are two drain notches, these should have a small piece of foam to keep the inside free of dust. If they are damaged or missing, get a foam paint brush (the throw away kind) and cut small pieces to fit the notch and deep enought to get caught by the lens but not compressed too much that it will not drain ant humidity insude the housing. 5) go to Home Depot and in the roofing section there is a metal roof seam sealer, Its a roll of a white sticky mastic tape about 1/2 in wide (its rolled onto a disposable waxed paper strip. (I will try to get the SKU from the Depot) its only about $5.00 6) Apply the sealer onto the lens edge all the way around except where the notches are. 7) Make sure everything is clean and free of debris, bring the lens to the housing align and press then clamp with your hands around the edges as hard as you can (don't press against a hard surface, you will break the housing or lens) 8) Clean and polish the chrome trim (use a chrome polish such as Flitz) 9) Glue trim piece back on. I used double faced foam tape the kind used on auto trim available at any auto parts store (it usually has a red protective tape, but ask anyway)

in 1981 the Datsun 810 came in two flavors the "Deluxe" and the "Maxima", the name stuck and the 810 nameplate was eliminated for 1982 (also the year the name "Nissan" first appeared). 810/Maximas were popular cars back then, however the dismal performance of the 80hp diesel (available mid 1981),versus the 154hp L24E gas engine (these are Z style "gross" HPs or about 120hp net) in a 3100lbs car made it a very slow seller. The diesel we look for the popular "stroker crankshaft" was only really available for about 2 and 1/2 years as it was finally dropped due to poor sales for the 1984 model year. 1984 was the last year "Datsun" was on the naneplate (along with "nissan") and was also the last RWD Maxima.

You might want to check your fuel tank sender and its wiring. I'had a similar issue with my fuel gauge always full (I only wish) the wiring was pretty worn out and damaged, replaced the section from the tank sender to the hatch area and that solved it.

I am planning on going with flat top pistons in my rebuild (N42 block), nothing fancy just ZX stock, however when I requested these from my ITM supplier he asked me to make sure my wrist pin size was 22mm. I have three sets of L28 rods and all are 21mm, L24 are 21mm as well. I have searched this forum and every webplace I can think of, and could not find mention of wrist pin diameter. Is he correct? What am I missing?

I have 260 instruments. PM'd.

I built mine out of 4x4 & plywood and HDepot supplies. It worked beautifully for my one project. I did weld the front and rear supports out of 1x1 square tube I got free. The whole thing was about $40.00, and you can have someone (i.e. muffler shop or auto shop) do the welds for you for a few bucks. I slapped some $4.00 HFreight wheels and was able to roll in/out of the garage. I had the 240 on it for about 2 months: power washed, sandblasted, repaired some small rust and replaced the floor rails and door sills, undercoated it and painted the engine bay. I should have painted the complete car on it!, anyway plenty of RPD (revolutions per day LOL!) without any problems.

Many of us here have complete cars to part out, easier if you tell us what you need. My recommendation is to categorize and list (i.e. body, interior, engine) and start asking for pricing. Believe me if just a percentage of the 6472 active Hybridz members (as of today)start sending you pricing for "whatever", it will get out of hand very soon and you will spend more time in your laptop than in your project. Good luck and have fun working on your Z!

Have one '78. 280z Tach will fit the 240 as long as you use the 240 plastic bezel, just remove 4 little screws on side and switch tach units. You can also switch the dial card since 280 fonts are different. PM'd you with price.

Clutch Dust Boot, 70-78. MSA# 212131, $6.07+ship, just got one, good quality.