pete280z

I hear you. My daily driver is a Titan. Sure, I'm making payments but it's very reliable and comes in handy for moving parts around and towing the Zs. I am not tempted to modify it in any way other than things to add utility (carry bikes, dogs, etc). My Zs can stay in the garage on stands while I "play" with them. Sure, it's taking me much longer to get the Z where I want it, but the trade off is good. And when I drive a Z after spending all week in the truck...

Good luck and congratulations. Best decision I ever made.

It looks like these are from the MSA catalog and are using an adaptor to fit. So this is a high offset 4x114.3 or 4x100 wheel. If you're OK with using an adaptor to fit FWD style wheels, check out Ross's (modern motorsports) Honda adaptors. There are tons of options for Honda pattern/offset wheels.

It's got mine! What do you think you would have to charge for something like this? A couple of issues come to mind though. With that kind of displacement 420 max hp seems kind of limiting. Also, an 87mm or 88mm bore would be much more comfortable.

Well, I guess I should clarify what I said. If I were caught trying to pass it off, I'd be arrested and the car impounded. When I discovered the 'flip' I towed the car to DPS to have them look it over and figure out what needed to happen with the car. They removed the tags and told me that the title situation is a civil matter. They won't pursue criminal charges for the guy who sold it to me unless I can positively prove that he did it. Technically the law doesn't work that way, but they don't care.

Get caught and absolutely nothing happens. I'm the naive purchaser of a vin flipped z. Cops were happy to confiscate the swapped tags, but would do nothing about the guy who ripped me off. I do still have the car though (sans title).

Cool new wife-mobile! I tried for a long time to get a G35C for my wife. She saw the price tag and wasn't having it. I wound up stumbling onto a hefty discount on a new VW, so we just ordered her a 2007 4 door GTI. It's more practical, and she picked the 6 speed.

Jerry's got a website: http://www.allzcar.com/. It's nothing fancy, but it's got everything you need to find the place.

Those ARP studs are 12mm x 1.5, a different thread then the original studs. I used them because they fit fine and were cheaper. 12mm x 1.25 open lugnuts were tough to find. I had also just seen a few (Nissan/Nismo?) studs break at Motorsport Ranch, including one z32 that dropped a wheel. 12mm x 1.25 open nuts are available through Courtesy. I don't know what vehicle they are for though.

I saw this in the wild yesterday. It was a blue 4-door Jetta. Good paint all around, but a completely rusted hood. Too bad I couldn't dig my phone out of my pocket in time to get a pic.

That's my car in the thread linked above. +04 will be very close, but should clear the stock spring perch. I don't think that backspacing can be precisely calculated from offset, so you might wind up with a very tight fit or have to run small spacers. Please post again to update when you get the wheels. I'm thinking of picking up a set so I have one for street and one for track days.

There are lots of Z people in this area, and more than a few HybridZ people. I'm in Grapevine, on the north side of DFW airport. If you get a chance come check out the CowtownZ club. PM me and I'll get you the details for the next get together. Our website is down due to a misunderstanding with the hosting company, but we hope to have it back up before too long.

phil - We're basically in the same city. Maybe the money would work out better if we could split gas. Maybe we could figure something out. What do you want off the car? I'm interested in the engine only. I don't need the tranny or anything else. I've also got an extra T5 that I don't think I'm going to use. EDIT - er... 1005 miles. Yeah, that's not happening. LOL

The TV coverage mentioned a 240Z being sold at Barrett Jackson a year or two ago. They didn't show the actual auction, but I think it got something like$7,000.

I bought this one about a year ago (on sale) because it was rated to put out more air than anything else for the price. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&pid=00916732000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Air+Compressors+%26+Inflators&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes It is slightly larger than the ones you've linked to. So far I've been very happy with it. With my impact wrench and air ratchet it keeps up ok. The die grinder kicks the compressor on pretty regularly. It is oil-less, so it's extremely loud. I wear ear plugs in the garage anyway, but it's an annoyance. My next compressor will have an oil lubricated pump.

Don't forget that TAMU took down t.u. last week. Now it looks as if the former national champs are headed to the Alamo Bowl to face a 6-6 opponent. I'm an Ohio State fan by marriage, so I'm pulling for OSU vs Michigan in the BCS Championship game. That would be classic. Unfortunately for me, it looks like the rest of the nation wants Florida.

It was the grease seals. Once they were tapped in a little further I made sure the inside of the seal had plenty of grease and reassembled. With the lock nut torqued in place the hub spins much more freely. They didn't drive the seals in much at all, just flush with the housing. I pushed them the rest of the way. The shop argued with me about this and I let them think that they were right to get things rolling again. Thanks guys!

The factory headers before 1999(?) didn't have any accomodation for expansion. The header on my 1997 4.0L TJ lasted about 70,000 miles before it broke apart. Later they added something to take care of that.

Heh. I actually had to clean some grease from the splines and threads to I could see what I was doing. I'm not sure if they did that to hide the fact that they goofed the ends of a few of the splines though.

I've got absolutely no idea what the JTR 110-2.0 is. If we're talking about the connection between the diff and the driveshaft I can confirm that my 1975 and a few other people I've talked to all had 10mm bolts holding it together. 1975 was apparently the only year for 10mm. Every other year was 8mm, and the Nissan lists 8mm for all years. One of the guys at Courtesy Parts said he just pulled the driveshaft and diff flange from another year and installed them on his 1975. So if you can find a 1975 diff flange that would work. I'd probably drill out the flange you've got or get another adapter from JTR.

I can't totally answer your question, but I've got some background. 1975 was the only year to use 10mm bolts at the driveshaft to diff flange AFAIK. If you've got 8mm then the diff has probably been swapped at some point.

Oh, and don't pay double to some eBay joker. You should be able to get one for retail with a little effort.

Supply is out there, but it's trickling in. Check with your local retailers to ask when they expect more in. The big players are Wal Mart, Target, Best Buy, and GameStop/EBGames. If you're persistent you should be able to get your hands on one.

I'm adding that to the list of things to check tonight.

I think jmortenson may be on to something. The hubs spun much more freely before I pulled the flanges down. After the flanges were installed it was tight. Now the the lock nuts are on it's worse. I don't think it's binding because the torque required to turn both hubs is constant. There is no catch. johnc - thank you for mentioning the fish scale. That is something I can visualize. So when the FSM says: you're adjusting until the shaft play is within spec and the hub will turn with the scale showing less than 27.9? I'll pull the flanges off tonight and see if the grease seals will go in any more. There's 0.0 chance of that "machine shop" touching my car again. No big deal if it's just the grease seal. If it's something else I'll spring for a different shop.