pete280z

I'm in for one. Let me know how/when you'd like payment. Very glad you decided to make some of these.

Are the LS7 Clutch/Pressure Plate parts available again? My order placed back in June was canceled because GM pushed their delivery dates.

Too cool! Congrats on making your first drive.

Your solution is very clean. I was inspired to make a similar LED display to mount on the column. But for $20, it's one less thing to do before I'm back on the road. I'm not sure I'll bother with the parking brake indicator at this point.

You only got one? I got eleven! I heard back from them a few hours after my post and they're upgrading my speedo to include the indicators.

More of an FYI than anything, but Speedhut has started selling speedometers with turn signal and high beam indicators built in. here's one: http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge_description-gauge_type-Speedometer-auto_number-777.htm I'm not affiliated with Speedhut in any way. I just happened to order my gauges from them the day before they started offering the indicator lights. Checked on their site today to see if a tracking number was available and found this.

Here's a thread from ls1tech that shows a few cams (stock included) from an engine dyno test: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/982895-ls1-camshaft-engine-dyno-comparision.html According to that data, the cam you're looking for is probably the stocker. For a slightly higher peak, the z06 cam might be worth checking.

If the torquer v2 worked well for you then I'm a little more confident in picking up the 228r. How much of a difference did the Tv2 make over the 224? So far, TSP has favored the Torquer v.3 (Holy intake lift, Batman!). They've also recommended the 228 and now the 224. Not sure why, but they said the Torquer v.2 wouldn't work well with shorties.

If you've changed cams in your LSx Z, please post what cam you're using and your opinion of it. Would you use the same cam again? The cam I've had my eye on (Texas Speed 228R): http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=167&catid=44 When I've contacted sales departments, they seem unsure about what to recommend for the combination of shorty headers and a car that's much lighter than an f-body. I'm using JTR Sanderson headers (I assume most here are too). What I'm looking for: 90% street car. Wide power band with a decent idle. May eventually see 4-5 HPDE events a year when my driving ability allows. I'm not much of a drag or street racer.

Haven't made much progress on this. The strut bar I had was a straight bar with brackets that offset the mounting back behind the strut towers. Re-using that bar would involve some pretty involved bracket design, so I'm probably going to wind up with a cusco or similar bar. One that bends over the engine so it can be mounted on the center of the strut towers. I'm no expert (hardly even a novice) but the more I look at the cusco brackets, the more I think that just trimming and welding them isn't going to result in a very strong joint. Here are a couple of pictures of johnc's that I'm using as thought starters:

No worries. As we'd say around here: "good lookin' out." I'd have a hard time living down a captive engine installation.

Thanks beezed, sounds like this will work. This cusco bar is a three piece bar. Two brackets that bolt to the strut towers and a bar that bolts between them. I plan to trim the brackets so I can weld them to the strut towers after the camber plates have been welded in.

Holy crap.

I don't think the stock one will cut it. Another option is the GM master cylinder that LS1 Z mentions in this thread (post #20): http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100599 I opted to go with the tilton 7/8 but still have a brand new GM master like LS1 Z used. PM me if you're interested in it. You can have it on the cheap.

Anyone have a cusco 240z front strut bar handy? Can you confirm what material the strut tower brackets are made of? I'm switching to weld-in camber plates and the cusco bar looks like it would be easy to cut and weld to the towers.

You're right, that old L6 is probably long gone... Rotary Camaro, even better! :lmao: Really, I was just looking for any excuse I could find to throw out the "I must be, the Bahamas are islands" bit. Seriously, the thought of a turbo rotary Camaro has me Not sure why, it's not that funny.

Donor? Bah! This thing is going to be sweet with an L6 under the hood. "You're kidding!" "I must be, the Bahamas are islands"

Please don't ever swap those tags over and then sell the car. Been there, bought that, and will kick the seller square in the balls if I ever see him again.

With the right documentation I think this would be eligible for a bonded title. IANAL and all that, but be careful. Titles with no activity (registration, accidents, insurance claims, etc) are archived after a certain period of time. I think it's seven years. Edit: It would be worthwhile to get the VIN and make a call to your local Vehicle Titles and Registration office before any money changes hands.

If you need the money more than you need the car, sell it. But not to that buyer. A random stranger from craigslist is less likely to cause headaches later.

I'm going with "keeps me out of trouble" because I've owned my current Z for 5 years and it's been on the road for maybe 4 months of that. I've probably put less than 250 miles on it. It's not so much a car as a car-shaped money sink that occupies my garage.

Courtesy lists two different part numbers for the inner joint of the N/A z32: 1990, 1994-1996: 39711-Z32008 1991: 39712-Z32001 (NLA) So there may have even been a third joint from 1992-1993. Nothing is listed for those. Courtesy gets about $215 each for these inner joints (Pathy or z32).

Just a quick update. Got a photo of the internals of the EMPI 5x1 side. Off to work... I wonder if the issue is US vs NZ or OEM vs Aftermarket. If I bump into a 4x4 pathfinder at a junkyard I'll be sure to grab the axles.

Hmm... on the EMPI axles I've got the joint inside the 5x1 side looks like the attached image... (Apologies to whomever I stole this image from) I thought that this is what is referred to as a tripod joint. Do I have my jargon mixed up? Or are the factory parts different than these EMPI replacements? I had the same issues trying to obtain the 80-9096. I wound up ordering two of the 80-4703 to play with (only $55US each IIRC).

Started thinking about the same thing last night. Only studied the wheel end briefly before moving on to other stuff. Are you thinking of welding an adapter to the end that has 4 threaded holes to mate up to the wheel side companion flange? Sounds simple and cost-effective. The pathfinder inboard w/z31t outboard could be a workable option. But isn't the z31t another tripod? I'm still sketchy on running 2xtripod w/400-ish whp. That and the fact that new replacement parts aren't available for the z31 axle as far as I know. The 2x5-bolt setup was very attractive because new parts are still available cheaply (approx $55 US per axle).