Filmjay

It's also more than a minute slower.

Shame. I just sold a G-Tech Pro on ebay. Wish I'd known you were looking. I have another, older one but it doesn't have the mounting bracket.

At OP...That is AWESOME! Yeah, the guy probably had to sign an NDA, so he couldn't tell you any details. I've tested games before for EA and Harmonix (my testing group even got a credit in "Rock Band") and had to sign NDA's. So you MIGHT even get a credit or a "special thanks". Sounds like it was an awesome Sunday.

Yeah, all I could find were marine weights...

If you're sure you've got all the bolts out, I'd say a couple gentle taps w/ a mallet.

Didn't see it. I'll probably catch it when it comes on cable. But, I'm still waiting for pics of this chick in the gold shorts. That's all I care about!

A cummins diesel, I believe, is about 560lbs. Not MUCH more than a BBC, which has been done. You can get a LOT of power out of a diesel though...and for probably a little less than a regular V8. DO IT!!!! ...and post lots of pics.

Nice Northstar! I LOOOOVE it! That a sand rail motor? As for that "Ferrari sound", if you read back a few pages in this thread, I outlined Ferrari 3.0L V8 specs (from...a Ferrari 308, duh) But, researching those specs, I also learned that Ferrari tunes their exhaust and intake boxes using the Bernoulli principle. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernoulli%27s_principle That's why Ferrari's sound the way they do. Flat plane crank and extensive intake/exhaust tuning.

AND provided reference. I was just mentioning it as an FYI. I didn't realize that he wanted the blue color. Didn't know if it was assumed that the higher color temp meant more light...which it doesn't. Anyway...with your posting the prices of that kit, then I think that ebay sale is a helluva deal!

Looks really cool. Just fyi though, the differences in the 8000K and 5000K bulbs are color and has nothing to do with the physical brightness of the lamp. HID's are meant to replicate the color of natural daylight, which natural vision reacts to better. The average color temperature of natural daylight is 5000-6000K. The higher in the spectrum it goes, the more blue the light is...the lower it goes, the more red. So, just letting ya know that if you don't really like the blue color, you can swap them out for the 5K's and you will have the same light, it will just be less blue and more of a silver. (Light is what I do professionally. )

Have done this to an old Chevy truck tank with good effect.

Sorry, didn't mean cubic inches...meant about compression (and not really knowing the proper term), but after looking around, it doesn't affect that either. I'm a nublet, sry. You can swap the heads and intake on a N*. BUT, if you swap the heads on the N*, it flips the cams, gears, valves, etc... as well. Performance might be a bit different with the valves flipped. (1.229 intake and 2.90 exhaust iirc) It's not QUITE as easy as just flipping them around. I have a Northstar and I've tried it just messing around b/c I read about the process elsewhere....flipping the heads is alot of extra work. Not only that, but the exhaust ports end up on top of the engine....talk about heat buildup! Now, if I could only find a cheap timesert kit, I could get it running.

It's "Kenny"

Yep, and I know a guy in Canada that's got two in varying states of completion that last I checked he was trying to get rid of. He had an unpainted roller that he was gonna let go for $1500. But it's in Canada and by the time I paid the duties and such on it, The price more than doubled. The few that I've found over the last few months that were reasonably close, were astronomically high and not really "worth it" to me. But I like to think I've got more sense than money. I'll keep an eye out for you though. For me, that one in Winston-Salem, NC would be perfect...I have a good idea of what he wants though, and I just can't do it these days.

Stroke it to a 427. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LUN-EA035-427&autoview=sku

I was wondering about that. Not only are the longest Honda rods shorter than most stock SBC rods, but that would just understoke it...no big deal right? What had me wondering were the journal and pin diameters. I just couldn't see it. But since it's all a pretty custom thing, it makes more sense.

1962 Ferrari 250GTO. But I don't have the 20-something million it would take for a real one. LUCKILY there are the wonderful body kits for the 240/60/80Z that gets pretty close... (Sorry Speed, I had to. )

Sorry for going OT again but since everyone likes the 180 degree headers so much, I thought I'd just throw this out there for the SBC guys.... http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-Block-Chevy-180-Degree-Headers,3517.html

Nice. I saw the first pic and thought "what about just cutting down an allen wrench?".....and BAM! There it was in the next pic. LOL!!! Have to say I'm guilty of the same thing...kinda. Have stacked nuts together to get at a hex screw that I couldn't get a proper wrench into. The right size bolt and some vice grips work well too...of course, you'll have to buy a new bolt b/c the vice grips will destroy the threads. HAHA!

Kinda defeats the purpose doesn't it?

As much advice as everyone has posted, I can't believe nobody has told you to check the simplest thing first....the plug wires.

Never heard of that one. Got any pics or part numbers? I'm interested in knowing more about using Honda C-Rods. ...and let us know what Scat says.

Ah, my misunderstanding. Thanks for clearing that up. I was kinda PO'd about that.

That sucks. Just FYI, you can't give or receive negative feedback on Ebay anymore. So a persons feedback score is now irrelevant as it only shows positives. Hope it all works out.

I think it looks cool as hell. The front hood line does look a little weird though. ...and just for future reference on the foam...an electric carving knife is the way to go. (yes, the kind you carve a turkey with.)