Filmjay

I can top that! I can't believe that deal you got. Especially in the shape it's in. ESPECIALLY since I've been looking for one for months. Gratz, man.

It makes the government hippies happy, yes. I'm in TN, and have to run cats because I live in a surrounding area to Nashville. Nashville +surrounding areas and Memphis are the only places in TN that require it on post-'75 vehicles. If I lived just another 20 miles south, I'd be clear. Sucks, huh?

I like reading this thread... I don't even have my car yet, so I can't factor that in. I've been searching for a while, but the early 240/260's are pretty hard to come by in the shape I'm looking for and in the 5-600mile radius I can trailer it back home. They're either all resto'd or heavily modded or they're so far gone and rust-ridden that it'd be a monumental task in simply repairing the rust. I've been building my car on paper for the last month or so. Not counting the cost of the car, plus depending on if I decide to go with a crate motor or attempt my first bare-block build, I'm looking at anywhere between $25,000-35,000. But I'm building a GTO conversion, so that's an extra $5,000 added in just for the body and $4,000-ish for replica 72-spoke GTO wheels from Dayton +tires. I've also factored in a custom Extrudabody EFI setup at probably $3500-4000 (I hope) But, I also plan on another 3-5K extra that's not in the budget for nit-picky stuff and miscalculation of costs. The fact that I'm doing a GTO conversion already puts me up $9,000-10,000 just for the cosmetics...plus genuine Ferrari badges an be pretty pricey too. $2,000+ for vintage NOS...provided they an be found. All total, I'm HOPING to be finished for about $28,000, doing as much work myself that I can do and relying on the kindness of my fiance's racing family. Though, I'm planning on it being around $35,000 as a finished "turn-key" over the next 2-3 years. But, I'm sure that once it's to that point, there will STILL be things I'll want to do to it...isn't there always?

Well, I know you have the manual. And I believe you're going with an LT-1 swap, correct? (Or did you get that old 327 that you were looking at?) If you're going LT1, I don't believe that the JTR V8 conversion book covers all the info you'd need for an Lxx swap...of any series...just a carb setup. So the question is sound...provided you've been a good worker "Z" and done your searching. What engine you're putting in depends on what you wanna keep, IIRC. If you're going LT1, I'd pay close attention to Grenade3000's LS1 swap thread. Search "LT1", start at the last page, and work your way forward....Also get the JTR TPI/TBI Swap book too....if you don't have it. If you're going with that 327 I believe you mentioned earlier on, then for shaaaaaame. Me personally, I plan on ripping it all out and using a Painless 18-circuit kit, Neutral Safety, relays....well, everything really. I just have a thing about using old wiring. Replies like you're getting sure doesn't make you want to ask a question, does it?

Perhaps you could go with one of the GTO style dashes. www.reactionresearch.com/dash.htm I like #2. That's what I'll probably end up putting in mine when I get that close...But you'd have a gap between the dash and the console I believe with the Simpson style dash. The Alphabet dash is a cap and can go over the existing one...or be used as a complete replacement. BUT, you could then make your own custom console and cover it in whatever you choose.

You could lasso them with the hose, then give 'em the ol' vrooom, vroooom to the gut! I was thinking the same thing...but don't sweat it. Just play "country dumb" and smile as you're passing them scooting down the 1/4.

Just wanted to note that there are quite a few makes of aftermarket adjustable tie rod ends. Most simply adapt to OE tie rods, and some allow for a thicker rod. But, what I think you're talking about is an expandable tie rod...which is also available as well. Although, they're primarily used in hardcore offroad 4x4 setups, there are some folks that are now making them for street performance. Though, like you, I have not seen a fully adjustable/expandable tie rod for a Z car although there are many adjustable rod ends available. But for you hardcore racers/fabricators out there, here are a couple examples. For a first generation Ford Bronco that is available from James Duff Enterprises. Same set installed on the "Crazy Horse" Bronco from the show "Trucks" a few years ago. Here's an example of an adjustable tie rod for a Mini Cooper Although they don't offer components specific to Datsun, using Moog Chassis components, an adjustable/expandable tie rod could "easily" be fabbed for a Z-car using the stock tie rod, cut and threaded through an appropriate diameter adjustable tie rod sleeves at both ends similar to the Bronco set up pictured above. Adjustable Tie Rod Sleeves...I don't know the diameter of the stock Datsun tie rod, so an appropriate size would need to be found...Moog Chassis Components makes it....I just don't know the diameter of the stock Datsun tie rod, so I can't post an exact match. Not trying to step on any toes...you guys know more about the Z-cars than I do...I'm just posting this so that people know it IS possible.

Pretty nice. I'd like to know more about the internals though. Especially on the "mild" 383...because you don't just hook turbos up and take off....well at least if you're not worried about keeping the engine for any length of time.

Awesome man! 7.1 on the 1/8th is somewhere in the high 10's-low 11's range on the 1/4. I have a chart around here somewhere....I'll see if I can find it...

HEEEEEY! Were you on 59 at about 9am on Sunday?

Very nice! Wish I could come across a find like that!!!

I've been reading the same books....doesn't it also say you'd be fabbing up or ordering a new trans mount for the T5/T56 and getting rid of the stock mounts for clearance?

Thanks again for the replies. I really appreciate the advice, especially on which car to base the project on. I've since moved totally away from the Northstar and will be getting rid of it ASAP. ...and as much as I'd LOVE to do it, the 355 is really a 700+hp race engine...and I'd like to actually drive this car on a semi regular basis. I still have a few motor options available, but really want to go with the one that's gonna be the least amount of fabrication. I've settled on a 383 SBC OR an LS1. As of yesterday, My father-in-law's friend that owns a salvage yard said I could have my pick. (although he's already crushed the only 2 Z-cars he had. ) He's got no less than 8 wrecked C5 Corvettes with full running gear. While I'd prefer to do a 383 SBC, I could probably get an LS1 or LS6 AND T56 for what just the 383 would cost. BUT, from what I've been reading on the forums here, the LS1/T56 swap into a 240 requires some pretty major firewall modification and I'd like to retain heat and A/C. But the 280 is a bigger, stiffer car and would need less body modifications. My problem is that I can't find the right car. Should I just wait for a smog exempt ('74 and older in TN) 240/260? Or go for that '78 280 up the road that I can haul away right now? What engine I plan on determines the car that I get and I don't know how smog friendly this 500 horse Gen1 383 would be although it's what I'd prefer to drop in, regardless of cost. hmmmm....decisions, decisions......

*bump A couple nice examples have been scooped out from under me while I was securing transport. Still looking!!!

*edit* - nvm, Oz...I noticed you already added the horse and type to your gauge faces...I was offering my graphic services. But, if any of the rest of the GTO owners can get your gauge faces out and want to scan/email them to me, I can redesign them and send them back for you to have printed. Any color or texture. Or at least tell me what manufacturer, model, and size you've got and I'll see if I can find them on the 'net.

I passed a 240SX on I-40 a few weeks ago with that exact same flame job....

The single sided lift I believe he's talking about is a "portable" lift. It's not really very "portable" as it still weighs a ton. But think of it as a pallette jack...on 'roids. (I can't find any pics for you.) The shop I used to do a little work in had one. They're pretty dangerous. It'd be fine for light duty stuff you wanna do that having the car off the ground would help...but if you go banging and rocking on it, it can tip over. Eagle Equipment made the one we had, and I think they stopped selling them b/c they were pretty dangerous. Check out their site though...they have a nice little portable lift with a 6,000lb capacity, that looks to be much safer...for about $1800. http://www.eagleequip.com/page/EE/PROD/LI-ML/MD-6XP

$450's not a bad deal. Those pneumatic chain saws can be $1500-$2500.

I'm in TN too! Lemme know if you need an extra pair of hands.

The JTR V8 conversion manual is my source. ...taken directly from page 3 of the introdution...

Here I go again...bringing back a thread from the dead... While planning out the heart of my GTO conversion, I know what I want, but am stumped as to the best way to get there. I was gonna use a Northstar that I have lying around, but those things are just a PITA. The money I'd spend getting it where I'd want it, I could easily buy a crate motor for half as much with the same, or more hp. I have also been offered a custom SBC 355..but it's a full race, 800+ hp, aluminum circle track motor...a bit too much for what I'm realistically wanting to do with the car...which is actually drive and enjoy it. What I want...A Gen1 SBC, 500+ NA rwhp at $2-4000 for the long block...NOT including a custom Extrudabody EFI system...using 3.73 rears....and NO GM centerbolt valve covers/Vortec heads. I'd LOVE to build the motor from scratch myself and am tooled to do so...but the reality is that I'm just not confident enough in my skills in that department to do so. I can pick parts all day, but alot of times, it's parts that don't work well TOGETHER. I'll pick a ZZ4 short block...try to match some Trick Flow heads...nope, valve lift is too much...Choose a Lunati crank combined with GM block...nope, block needs clearancing...get the picture? Now, I can tear down and repair all day, but CHOOSING the right parts, being confident with those choices and KNOWING they'll all work in harmony with the correct geometry is my weak point. I AM still in my planning phase, but should be getting the car within he next week or two to FINALLY start prepping the chassis. Any help or advice for an old "new guy"? Thanks in advance,

Aw MAN! That's a GREAT find. Especially here in the South. I've been searching for a good donor car for a month now and have yet to find anything in that nice shape.

Sorry to dig up this old thread, but I had a couple questions on the differences between the VR and Thunder Ranch kits and thought this would be the correct thread to put them in.... In the VR FAQ, Mr. Washington states that a coupe IS available but must be specified at time of ordering as there is a mark in his mold where he would simply stop applying fiberglass for the roadster version. BUT there is a price difference between a hand laid and a sprayed glass body. The Alpha kits are all hand laid. The VR comes with a choice. Is there a real quality difference? I've also read that some people have used the VR front and the Alpha-1 rear. Why is this? Do the kits differ drastically in appearance or installation? I suppose what I'm looking for is a kit recommendation. Thanks in advance.

still available?

Best thread here, by far. But, this is why I'm here...guys that know better than to simply drop a 700+hp motor in a street car. Experience speaks volumes! That''s why I've only been building my GTO conversion on paper for the last couple months. I want to be confident everything is going to gel correctly before the first bolt is even turned. Of course, in doing a GTO conversion, not getting attention is gonna be pretty tough. But, I DO intend to drive it a good bit. Almost as a DD. But, I also do want to be able to give all the Z06 drivers around here the one finger salute as they're staring at my tail lights. Again though, I have to keep in mind that I'll only be running an 8" tire with wire rims, so I don't want so much power that it's gonna start popping spokes if I mash on the go pedal too hard. The frame, body, and suspension is the "easy" part. Matching just enough power to the weight so that I'm still grinning, not spinning the tires constantly, and still able to thumb a nose to the Mustang/Vette guys is he hard part. And after talking to Kevin at Extrudabody about a custom "retro" induction setup, I really want to build the motor around his injection system. That Extrudabody setup is the only thing that I KNOW will be going under my hood. But, every time I ask someone about a particular combo, I keep getting "Those heads wouldn't work well on that block", or "You might want to consider *A* pistons over *B* pistons for *X* reason." So, even after a couple months of bench racing, I'm still at square 1 with the motor for my project. And I don't know enough about it to simply go into the Jegs or Summit catalogue and know what REALLY works well together. This will be my first solo motor project with no big name builders at my disposal. I thought I wanted to put a Northstar in it, simply becuase I have one sitting at home collecting dust. But really, those things are a real pain to work on and I want something that can be worked on with simple hand tools...I've learned that lesson already since I don't have a full shop setup available. (lift, cherry pickers, etc..) I'm just a schmoe with a bunch of hand tools, a compressor and air tools, a 110-volt MIG machine....and a dream.