Filmjay

The 4.0L Aurora cams can be had for $400 from CHRFab...in a custom grind, if needed. I've already checked. That's what I have and WAS planning on putting in my Z. But the necessary tools that I don't already have would be more than a really killer set of heads for a SBC. The timesert kit alone is $700. But, I'm a shadetree guy...not a race shop. So, you guys might already have those things handy. Other than that, the part prices are pretty comparable. Though, I would have to agree on using the SBC. They are bountiful. You can't go to a scrap yard anywhere in America and NOT see a SBC. Anyway, sorry for a slight derail there. Just wanted to let you know the 4.0L's aren't really that bad, expense wise. The only thing that turned me off to using it was the tools I'd have had to procure. I might be in the Portland area after the first of the year. If I end up driving, I'll load that sucker up and bring it to ya.

There are only a couple threads that even mention these programs. So, I was wondering about their accuracy and reliability....or if they're even worth it. Last time I paid more than $100 for software, it was putting Vista on a new PC I built. That, and Photoshop. But photoshop has paid for itself in that I make money off of it. Dynomation is $400 and comes with CamDisk 8($50). DynoSim5 is $100. Then there's the good ol' Desktop Dyno 5...$50. So would anyone have any recommendations? I'm not a pro engine builder. But, I love to bench race. And I would just like to compare components before I plunk down a ton of cash...without bugging the heck out of Grumpy all the time. I'm thinking DynoSim5 w/ ProTools. But there are a few key features in Dynomation that I'd like to have handy...namely Intake/Exhaust Pressure analyzation and Intake/Exhaust Runner Modeling...but damn, that's 400 clams. Thanks,

Agreed. The lighting on the car looks very controlled and nice. Like it was shot in a studio, then photoshopped on a city street background. Awesome, in my professional opinion.

I've read through this thread and am wholly intrigued. Though I have yet to see any more than a passing mention of the quintessential "exotic sounding V8"..the 3.0L QV Ferrari. So, just for info's sake... ...taken directly from the factory 308 service manual: 90 degree V8, 2.9L (2927cc) - 178.616 ci. 4 valves per cylinder 237 bhp @ 7000 rpm 192 lb/ft @ 5000 rpm 5 main bearings 9.2:1 CR Bore/Stroke: 81.00 mm × 71.00 mm 3.19 in × 2.8 in Ratio: 1.14 Valve length: Exhaust: 110mm p/n Ferrari #131199 Intake: ? p/n Ferrari #131198 (I could only measure the exhaust valve, because one of them is sitting on my desk beside my computer! These sodium-filled exhaust valves are just about as good as that... Paperweights...) Valve stem diameter: 7.96 to 7.975mm Valve head diameter: Exhaust: 36.8mm Intake: 42.8mm Valve spring length (free): Inner spring: 40.4mm Outer spring: 42.1mm Valve spring length (closed): Inner: 35.05mm Outer: 38.65mm Valve spring length (open): Inner: 26mm Outer: 29.6mm Load with valve closed: Inner spring: 12.3kg Outer spring: 16.6kg Load with valve open: Inner spring: 33.1kg Outer spring: 60.3kg Valve layout angle: 46 degrees Runner length: ??? - Not listed Cam durations: P6 competition cams (racing only): 290 degree duration, 9.25mm lift, 48/62-64/44 timing. Another note is that Ferrari air boxes are designed to make use the Helmholtz resonance principles in syncing with the intake pulses by means of "tuning" the air intake box. When done correctly, it actually increases power, as well as help produce their sound. Their exhausts are tuned using the same principles. Perhaps you could use a cylinder liner in the SBC to reduce the mass of the piston? Oh, and I've got a 4.0L/32 valve Aurora V8 I'll let ya use as a mule. But, I want it back. lol! But, if you DO indeed get a working model up for a SBC...I want one!

Yeah, great job! Just goes to show that with attention to detail, one can do just about anything in the garage!

I'm not in the market for stacks yet. I've got a loooooong way to go before I get to that point, but I will tell you that a longer horn/stack will increase velocity into the intake, allowing more fuel to mix, and increasing hp...if only slightly.

Yeah, just shoot it all with a washer and engine cleaner. After that, it's elbow grease, rags, brushes and your cleaner of choice. OR you could get some braided sleeves and be done with it

Perhaps just a general "welcome" auto-pm with the rules and a short hihowyadoin'??? It's pretty common, and good "'net-iquette", on most forums that you search first.

I'm more curious about this $200 TIG welder at this point. Looks great though. I can't WAIT to see what it does when you've got it all buttoned up and ready to run!!!!

Rust free would be nice, but what it would cost for cross-country transport is more than I'm willing to pay....unless you're selling for less than $200...which I HIGHLY doubt for a rust-free Z. I can get the necessary sheet metal for repairs and a nice MIG welder for less than the current costs....and have a nice little welder for other stuff when I'm done. Sorry, no offense. Thanks though. Pics please. All I need to see are floors, frame rails, dogs/rockers/wells, batt. tray/and hatch areas. Sounds alright so far.

LOL! Didn't read my last post did ya?

I am whole heartedly seconding this statement. The parts are there, but I've been looking at all the specialty tools needed for the Northstar, and JUST the required tools are in the neighborhood of $1000-1400, depending on where you buy. Plus, the block will HAVE to be timeserted the first time the heads are removed...the timesert kit for the Northstar alone is $400-700...also depending on the source. And that's just to repair the head bolt threads in the pourous aluminum block. (they were installed with the purpose of being "semi-permanent" from the factory.) So, JUST the required specialty tools needed for the Northstar is already at $1400-$2100. There goes 1/4 of my engine budget...before I've even turned the first bolt. ...and THAT'S why nobody's put a Northstar in a Z yet. I'd love to do it...but DAMN! I think I'll just learn a bit more about building my own...and bug the heck out of Grumpy...instead of this Northstar. I'll still keep it to maybe do somethng with in the future, but for now...I think I'm going to have to pass the "first Northstar Z" torch to someone else...

Depends on the cams. The mid-range cams from CHR, with port polishing will put out about an extra 75hp. 100 hp for their full head package and big cams. (porting and polishing, 3 angle valve/seat grind, 4 reground cams, new HP springs, retainers, seals and intake cam sprockets redrilled) That's not counting for headers either. But to get the most out of it, a custom , better flowing intake would be needed. And CHR also has pistons in any CR and rods in I, H, or 4130 billet flavors for these motors as well...so depending if you wanted to go NA or forced induction, the sky's the limit....well, that and your budget. 800-1000hp is not uncommon from these motors in supercharged or twin turbo trim. But they ARE expensive and complicated. Now I know why nobody's ever done a Northstar Z. But they're SO cool. Everything is symetrical. I can flip the intake to convert back to FWD or to install as a rear-engine setup. The heads can be flipped to run the exhaust ports from the top for easier turbo installs...or out through the hood! HAHAHA! There are a ton of possibilites in the configuration. It's awesome!

Wow. I really hate it for ya. Especially with that bitchin' motor just sitting there. Nice intake btw. But, I DO know what it feels like. I had a fender bender repair turn into a 14 month transmission replacement in my Aurora before...and that was from a dealership. After many legal woes later..I finally brought the car home...and will more than likely be using the Northstar for my Z. That's when I became a HUGE proponent of doing it yourself. In three months, you could have probably learned to do most of the stuff yourself though. Personally, I'd bring her home and start DIY'ing. For you, the rewiring wouldn't be that hard...just time consuming. And the fuel system would be the same. For the rest, there is PLENTY of shared knowledge here just waiting to be unlocked with the Search button.

Just found out that TN passed the SEMA laws so my GTO conversion will end up being titled as a '64 Specially Constructed Vehicle... ...so that means that my options have opened up to a 240, 260, or 280 of any year since I was only looking for pre-74's to be emissions exempt! So, if you got a shell or moderately rusted Z within 500 miles of Nashville, TN...lemme know. Moderate rust okay. For me, frame rails are the only point that must be in good/decent shape. ...and if an admin reads this...can you change the title to "Looking for an Southeast Z." ? Puh-leeeease!

The Painless kit should be labeled. The couple I've messed with were.

NFS lost me at ProStreet. I'm still playing the most recent Gran Turismo. With a little Ferrari Challenge on the side. But, honestly...I'd rather be wrenching, researching, or doing the real thing these days.

Thanks. I already have the northstar just sitting and waiting on me to get my **** together. I'm also aware of the head stud issue with these motors. But, while SUPER complicated, they are very cool motors configuration-wise. About the only thing I see my sending anything to CHR for would be head work. The bottom end is pretty stout and the stock N* of my year has a 10.3:1 CR. I don't really want any more than that as if all turns out well, I may consider a little bit of forced induction later on...much later on.

Thanks Dan. I have driven a few Z's in the past...though not mine. I have a friend that swears by them and they're all he will drive. I've known him since I was 16 (I'm 30) and that's all he's ever owned. I'm not really interested in obtaining a running Z though. I'm only interested in a Z for the GTO conversion. That's it. And yes, I do realize that it will cost FAR more than a "normal" Z. I figure between $25-32K will get it where I want it...doing most of the work myself. I'm expecting it and have budgeted for it. Ideally, I'd like to find a shell as there will be very little I'm planning to reuse. Perhaps even a project someone has started and hasn't finished. And trust me, I'm being rather picky when it's coming to choosing the base chassis. I've already passed more than a few by, and I've been looking for a quite a few months now. It IS interesting to know about the "Specialty Constructed" law in California. Perhaps SpeedRacer could offer a definitive answer, being a fellow Tennesseean...but I will definitely look into it as that enormously affects my chassis and engine options. Thanks for the tip. *edit* While it's not YET approved, Tennessee has pretty much mirrored the Cali law on custom vehicles. WOO HOO! Straight exhaust it is!!! Now, I can feel a little more comfortable in obtaining a post-74 car! This has absolutely made my day!!!! *RE-edit* They've already enacted the SEMA bill as of 2008. And dopey me sent my Representatives requests to support it. haha! Oh well. Better late than never.

The Dakota bell would still have to be modified. I've also heard that a bell from a mid-90's Isuzu pickup will work as well. Though whether "direct-fit" or not, they all will still have to be modified for the starter. Me personally, I'm planning on a T5 so I'll be looking for the Gen3 Camaro/Firebird or S10 bell. I've seen them on ebay (trans and bell) for less than $300. But, I'm not worried about that yet. I've got enough engine work to keep me busy through the winter. Plus, I don't even have the car yet. haha. Although, settling on the N*, my options for chassis have just expanded. I can go for a post-74 Z, instead of having to search the ends of the earth for a decent per-74 240/260 to be emissions exempt.

Okay..I've searched and searched. The only hint of a Northstar powered Z is from a banned member that never actually did it and ended up selling it off to a Fiero guy. So, has ANYONE done it yet? I'm planning on doing it regardless, because I already have the N*. I just wanted to know if there's anyone that has actually done it yet....or am I on my own with this one??? Being the first would be pretty cool...but at the same time be a potential P.I.T.A in that I have no resources to pull from. And yes...before anyone posts the link, yet again, to CHRFab..I've already contacted them and will be sending the heads for some work and cams/springs. Links? Pics? Anybody? ......help.

Yeah man. There is a finite balance. It screwed my first marriage all to hell. Although I was working in a shop, she just had this jealousy thing about "that was OUR thing"...when it never really was. Give her a wrench and get her involved. Even if she doesn't know wtf she's doing, she'll feel like you're doing something "together". But, don't make it all "Hey baby, we're gonna do this together." ...because she might not give a darn. You kinda have to trick 'em into it. "Hey, can you come help me with this?" And if she's down, then you'll a. gained points by asking her (showing you "need" her, if you don't) b. strengthen your bond by doing it together. But watch out...get her TOO involved and if something ever happens between you, she might decide to try and take the car. haha. And if she's just not interested in helping, then that should be a red flag. If she really loves you, she'll be happy to help. If she refuses to help, but wants you to go pick out curtains or some such....you're doomed and you might as well sell me your Z right now. Or do what I did...find one from a racing family that probably knows more about it than you. They're out there...and some of them are actually HOT! I've got mine Z shopping for me. She now even knows where to look for the rust cancer. Point is bro...get her involved or be prepared to do a juggling act. OR...you could spend SO much time with her, that she tells you to go work on your car. Careful with that one though. That's a dangerous path. HAHA!

AHA! Finally, the builder I wished most to hear from speaks! I've been following your build for ages before I ever joined here or commented elsewhere. If you're going through the extent of fabricating in aluminum...why not carbon fiber? I was considering remolding the body panels in carbon fiber. Will you be fabricating a tubular frame for a "true" replica? Though, I don't have my donor yet, I've decided to hold off to find the right one. Instead, I've decided to start rebuilding the Northstar I have and fabricating the intake and exhaust instead of going with a crate motor, while still keeping an eye out for the chassis. Though, using the modern engine, I'll have the option of using a 280 and being within emissions limits. Also, I've found great sources for genuine Ferrari long blocks...but an engine I have, is one less thing I have to worry about procuring....and figuring out how to adapt to a FR application. Thanks to you all for any and every piece of insight you can offer. I'll be needing every bit I can get over the next few months...er, years.

I'm keeping a close eye on this one. I see those ebay turbos a lot, just never had the cojones to invest. Good luck bro. Looking great so far!

Look into the small Northstar. The 4.0L Aurora engine would be a good candidate. With just cams and springs, it'd easily rev to about 8K, and make about 350hp. Plus, if you look around, you can find a mid-90's Aurora for literally nothing. The book value alone on one of the early Auroras is less than $500. You could drop the motor, keep what you need. Part the rest out and you've made your money back. But Auroras ARE very complicated engines. There are nearly twice the parts as an LS1...not to mention, you'll be fabricating a few parts, AND there's not nearly the aftermarket support available that exists for the Lxx motors. For what you're wanting, be prepared to spend some SERIOUS cash. That is, unless you can find a Ferrari motor. But even then, you're still gonna be spending some serious scratch. ...and I do not divulge those sources. Someone here might, but I had to search for months, just to find a parts list. So, get to Googling. Join some Ferrari forums and ask around. Just don't tell them what you plan on doing with it or they'll laugh you off the board. Trust me. Some of those Ferrari folks can be VERY elitist.