Kingnothing616

I had a '92 Z28 with a set of accel wires with my shorty headers and they were crap. The #8 started arcing after less than 1000 miles. Put a set of MSD's and they were perfect for more than 20k miles.

Very very nice sir.

You are in a tough place working for your father, sounds like you have a great place to work and learn, but all the regulars will always go straight to your father. Unless he gives you 100% credit for the things that you do, its hard to get them to look at you as just a technician. I have dealt with this since I started. I am only 22 now, and have been working at an independant shop for 2 and 1/2 years, only about the last year have the regulars started coming to me with their problems instead of the boss. I worked at a Toyota dealer for about a year straight after TSTC and gained zero respect from anyone because i was so young. I hate how people are, but it is really amazing how much a clean cut, clean shave, and tucked in shirt will get you.

Not sure about ft worth, but I work in tyler, and we have an awesome head rebuilder that we use that is extremely reasonable. Then we have a different guy that we use for blocks, but they are both really good. Let me know if I can help you out.

Yeah i usually do about 4-5 bearing packs a week, and i do it all by feel. Get the rotor spinning while tightening with pliers untill it slows down considerably, loosen untill it frees up againg, tighten about 1/8 turn, or untill your cotter hole lines up.

Craigslist is a great way to go, with all of the dealerships going under there are plenty of out of work mechanics. If you happen to be in school, take serious advantage of the vo-tech discount through matco. I picked up my first double bay box that retails for 4,000 and paid 1700, kept it for 3 years cleaned it, waxed it, etc, just traded it in with my MAC guy 3 months ago and got 5k trade in on a 8k box. And he let me do it on truck credit which is no interest.

Update: After breaking in my engine a little bit and getting on it a few times i was really really dissapointed in a dead standstill takeoff, it was like taking off with a 22r in second gear. So i swapped a buddy my powerglide with shift kit, and 2200 stall for a rebuilt turbo 350 with a shift kit. Just needed a new kickdown and the pan was really nasty. After talking with grumpyvette a little bit he really steered me in the right direction as far as stall and such with my motor combo. So i ordered a 3000 stall converter from jegs for 199.00. Got it all in yesterday and should do the install tomorrow.

Haha.. yeah never say.. "I'll go get that later".. guaranteed i made about 15 trips to oreilly and ace hardware. I started out just to do the swap, then well while im there paint the engine bay, cant paint the engine bay without painting the cross member, now bushings.. etc etc. then you end up with tokico boxes, eibach boxes, bushing boxes, and your wife is saying... WTF Mate

The only place i would say grade 8 is a must would be where you mount the setback plates, and spacers to the block as they are pretty long and endure more stress. Also the driveshaft bolts.

Hey grumpy, you have seen my build of the 76 280z with the 283-powerglide combo... After getting everything running and put together I have put about 200 miles on it, and it seems that from a dead standstill im driving a 22r and taking off in 3rd gear. My boss at the shop i work for is a hot rod fanatic, and drag races professionally, he made sure everything was in working order with my motor just incase I overlooked something. I'm pretty sure its just the motor- tranny combo giving me fits. The powerglide only had 65k when I pulled it out of the car, put a B&M Transpak in it, TCI Saturday night special converter, fresh fluid, vaccum hooked up, kickdown hooked up and adjusted, etc. I'm pretty sure that im going to throw in the th350 that my buddy has so that I can use the factory shifter and everything. Just thought I would get your opinion, maybe different stall? Transmissions are not my category. Thanks Coye

The strut cartridge gland nut is standard thread, and is extremely tight. If you have anyone to help you, you can get on it with a pipe wrench, and have your helper tap on the strut housing around the nut. Be careful with the torch though, don't want to get it red hot, and there is oil inside the strut = fire.

It is really great that the car companies would get that aggresive with their advertising.

I live in Mineola, TX. Work in tyler which is all about 80 miles east of Dallas

Well I had to run my exhaust out the side for now, I dont have the funds for a full setup yet, but i wanted to drive it without shooting fumes all over the oil pan and smutting up teh chrome. Okay and for all you guys looking for your electric inexpensive fan solution I have found it. I went to talk to my commercial guy at oreilly about what i could get for this car, and he found me this Hayden PN 3700 16" Electric fan for 62$. and then i asked him if he had a temperature probe so that i could hook it up the right way with a relay etc. and hayden also sells a kit with everything you need to wire it up, relay, temp probe, wires, everything. 25$. TCI Trans cooler Had a brake fluid leak at the master cylinder so i got to use my trusty new 3/16 brake line benders and my blue point double flaring set. Brakes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Clearance.

I mechanic for a living and buy latex gloves in bulk. Makes things a lot faster when you don't have to wash your hands every 10 minutes. I ran out a few months back and my hands were destroyed from all the brake clean, mineral spirits, etc.

Took the Z up to my work on monday and did an Alignment, and tightened up a few things, and just thought I would update on a few things that I have done in the past week or so. Got my 1983 Toyota Pickup 4x4 front calipers with S12 stamped on the side. Painted them red, trimmed my backing plate and they bolted right up. I replaced the master cylinder with a stock one when i first bought the car because it was bypassing fluid, and when I went to bleed the brakes again after I put my front calipers on, I got to the rear and there was no pressure back there. CRAP! bad master cylinder, so i got Oreilly to warranty it and I ordered one for a 1979 ZX with 15/16 stamped on it instead of the smaller and stocker 7/8.

Yeah thats a pretty good deal.

Here is some video from tonight, got a few kinks worked out and started her up for everyone!! Enjoy!!

Well I bought the POR 15 Black Paint in a quart size container, and it covered my entire engine bay, cross member, suspension parts, engine block and heads, and I still have about a pint left, so it goes really really far. The marine clean and metal ready both come in single sized containers, and they are so potent that you should dilute them down or they might marine clean the skin right off your hands.. haha, always wear gloves. When you get throught using the paint, NEVER, try to put the lid back on, even with saran wrap or anything, the only thing that works to re-seal it is to put it into a glass jar with an airtight lid, and even still if you get the paint around the rim and dont clean it off it will never come off. You will get really mad because the stuff is expensive and you cant use it. To apply I just used the disposable foam brushes from walmart, get like one of those 15 packs with different sizes, because they tear up really quick. I purchased my stuff from a local dealer who my dad and I have known for a long time, he actually did the cab work on the truck you see in the background of the pictures, chopped the top, shaved the handles etc. He coated the entire inside of that cab with POR 15. You can go to www.por15.com to get it for a little bit more than I paid for it. Hey I noticed you are in the DFW area, im going up there next friday to spend the weekend with some friends and go to the Mudvayne - Nonpoint Concert at Palladium.

My answer to almost all of my clearance issues is my Trusted Mac Tools AIR HAMMER.. haha. I just beat it all in, and then im going to re-coat it with some 3m undercoating. If you have any other questions just hit me up man.

That 4 Runner will go forever if you keep a timing belt on it.. If you havent already check out this guys site.. he is a 4 runner nut, but has a lot of useful info. My daily is a 02 Tacoma with the same motor that you have probably, good ole 5VZ

Well I got the beast fired up this morning after finally figuring out my fuel pump wiring. I decided to go cheap with one of the MR Gasket pumps from oreilly. I got it all wired up pretty easily, but took a little while on the other stuff, because the JTR manual contradicts itself about 4 times. I have it wired from one post of the 3 prong switch on the top of the motor to the hot side of the coil, then the parallel post of the switch is tied in with the R post of the starter, then it goes throught the firewall and splices in with the GREEN wire right under the passenger side seat. The book also says the black/yellow wire is the one that goes to the S terminal for the ignition signal, but it is not. there is a yellow/black wire right beside it that is the correct one. I had to mount my alternator basically on top of my water pump, because i have a short nose and there wasnt space to put it anywhere else. I should be able to get some video to you guys later this week. It sounds amazing and Revs like a pro-street sbc.

You definately need to do some searching about why you need to mount your motor back.. It will handle like crap if you keep it that way. I am just getting finished up with my build, check it out.. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144946

9,500 RPM With no oil pressure.... whoops... hahaha