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Well I dont quite see how we got to an exhaust problem the increased back pressure could still highlight a faulty EGR valve. If the engine idled then died when throttle was applied, there is probably a vacuum leak (EGR-PCV) or blocked fuel filter. As for timing marks looking from above they read left to right Advance 20Deg,15,10,5,0(TDC)and 5deg Retarded. If you had to screw the idle air bleed in, it would suggest vacuum leak. Keep trying and smiling. Neil 8)

Sorry misread post (problem with coming here late at night). 1- Condenser lead goes to earth spade on side of distributer but engine will run without it. 2- Check PCV circuit is sealed no cracked hoses. 3- Check that brake booster hose is connected and sealed. 4- Check that EGR valve is working not frozen shut or open. 5- Check that air regulator valve is not frozen open or shut. 6- Check that Electrical and vacuum connections on DCDD are correct, note man and auto may be different they are on early models. 7- Check all electrical connections and earth connections. 8- Check that fuel pump is operating and there is pressure at fuel rail. Double check everything because if it worked before then it has to be something that you have done that it doesn't work now. I had my brothers 79 that I changed the wiring loom in, doing it in my spare moments, it wouldn't start even after checking everything. So decided to do other things only to find the CPU under other stuff on passenger seat. Most problems usually turn out to be something simple. Neil

ok bob I,m going for something simple here, you said you didn't hook up the reverse lights does that mean you didn't connect the inhibitor switch as well. Two of the four connections (at the trans) are for the reverse lights the other two are the inhibitor switch. If they are not connected the car wont start, same as if it was in gear.

Yeah DBA Gold. http://www.dba.com.au/ Download Nissan catalogue. My Z31 rears are Longlife slotted only, cost Aud$200/each US$280-300/pr So at US$143/pr sounds like a good deal at this stage. Neil

If your talking about a later short nose R200v it wont bolt straight in and because the diff normally forms part of the structural support for the rear suspension, I dont believe it would be worth modifying to fit it. Swapping an R200V centre into an earlier R200 housing is relatively straight forward. As for halfshafts I have been working on it but all the options so far end up with both ends floating instead of one being fixed. I am going to a Hardy Spicer agent next week to see what other Birfield type CV joints are available to see if there is another way around this problem. will keep you all posted. Threw an S13 rear susp assy under 280ZX for comparison, it needs narrowing slightly the biggest obvious problem is the struts lean forward not backwards which means modifying stut tower. Cheers Neil.

Hey Jamie, I hate to spoil any ideas but Vicroads regs only allow 25mm / 1inch wider than original that means 7inch wide legally. At the cost of Simmons and big tyres you wouldn't want to end up with a defect notice & something thats hard to sell. Will get an email off shortly just been a bit busy. Neil

Hey guys check this out! http://www.sydneydatsunclub.com/articles.asp Shows you can do anything if you try eh.

Hey Stony, try these. 8) http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=z31_nismo_ringset http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=z31_nismo_ringset2 Just to show they are around check this out, http://www.adelaidejap.com.au/accessories.htm There you go. Neil

If you have got the spanners out I would still check uni's on tailshaft. Yes even with the suspension hanging there will still be tension on the torsion bars, but you should be able to reset adjustment in this position.Note lube adjustment bolt before you start. If you want to undo any of the mounting points you will need to separate one of the balljoints so the lower control arm can hang further. Have fun! Neil

yeah I was thinking it had 2 piece tailshaft like my 4x2. Next option is to disconnect rear tailshaft from diff - marking flanges first so can re-align after-and check that unis move freely, not binding or sloppy. Otherwise JT1 could be right, lift is too high and you need to fit wedges between diff and springs to raise the nose of diff to reduce angle at uni. neil.

I would have gone for the centre tailshaft rubber mounting too. It seems too obvious but you aren,t getting a bad missfire under load ie; bad plug lead or cap, hard to diagnose from Australia without more info. Neil

Good to have someone else with 280zx in Victoria. At least you have a series 2 that makes brake options easier. The simplest is to upgrade to z31 brakes least modifications. If you upgrade to z31 5 stud hubs you can use most of the z32 and skyline brake options. You could probably modify & and adapt Falcon or Commodore fronts wiht Harrop calipers. I am currently working at fitting a Viscous LS centre into Z31 R200 housing, picked up s13 diff and shafts this afternoon. Want to chat call 03 59443966. Neil

Guy I just spent 1 Hour writing something out for you and its just been blown away so will try again some other time Neil

Jim, is the car an auto? If so it could be an inhibitor switch, connection at the trans or relay. It hasn't blown a fusible link? Seems like you have disconnected everything else then reconnected it. Neil

80 LT1 My thoughts go like this. As I am going to convertable an 81 2+2. Gut the interior cut open the chassis rails from the top and drop in two 40mm tubes welded together to create 40x80 rails noting that they need to remain parallell and not narrow behind the trans as the originals do. Stagger the angles on the ends to pick up the box section under the front of the back seat. On the front bring them through to the pick up the front crossmember mounting holes. Also make 2mm plate with returns front and back and along the bottom and weld these to the inside of the sills both left and right. You might also look at bars or boxing the area under the front of the front seat depending on what you did for a rear trans mount. For the convertable i was going to put a cross from where the new rails meet the rear box section up to the rear towers. I am using Ford 1990 Capri ( Mercury US) inner body support and intend modifying and using softop from the same which with 2+2 body will fit in front of and below rear towers. I am modifying Australian GTO body kit to cover it. Sorry no pics yet. Hope this gives you some ideas. You may get away with just strengthening the sills and boxing under front seat. Hope the description isn't too brief. Neil

Lets have another go! The magic No here is the one that comes after a dollar sign. The higher your VP the greater the quality of components is going have to be. You haven't stated what the motor actually is , brand and size. From that we can probably give better advice. Late model engines running high nominal and effective compression have knock sensors and computers to counter some of the variables. Just picking out a camshaft is probably not the ideal place to start but we only learn from our mistakes. Check out your nearest Tech book seller where you should be able to find books on street, strip or racing any type of engine. Where you should be able to find the other engine specs to match your cam selection. Theres plenty you can do to any engine it just takes time and money so good luck. Neil

Well I just cant resist putting in my 2 cents worth. All these web sites and links are just full of great information for any budding Automotive Engineer. Proving that to the average person it pays to seek out professionals to get good advice. If you cant get a grip on all the variables involved in engine design and dynamics, dont start building engines. Most of us with street cars accept the fact if you want seriously more power use a bigger engine. For those into force feeding you get a bigger turbo or smaller blower pulley ( at the expense of engine life). Thats my opinion. Neil

OK Ill pass on what I have learned on 280zx shafts non turbo. Auto (r180) Shafts and Man (r200) according to the part Nos and confirmed by dealer are the same so in theory are they are the same length. Noting that left and right are different lengths. Also the inner joints that connect into the diff are different between r180 and r200, although the R200 joints supersede to z31 part Nos for open diffs. So you should be able to cut the inner joints off an r180 shaft and fit z31 inner joints with a new boot obviously as per service manuals instructions. So the basic idea is always get the halfshafts that come with Diff. Just picked up z31 r200 3.54:1 with 12mm ring gear bolts so will be going down to 4x4 wrecker to check out lengths of d21pickup wd21pathfinder front shafts as the 4x4 quoted in other posts doesn't exist in Australia. Then off to get vlsd centre, should still work out cheaper than the AUD$3000 to have one made. Neil

3154tm checkout online Z32 workshop manual http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cqi-bin/manual.cqi for more info.

Dont s14-s15 use R230V or are they r200v as used in Z32 N/A. Also when looking into Lexus V8 the pictures of the drivetrain layout shows the diff looking like R230V and was the same 3.62:1 ratio.

Whats wrong with power steer full elecs aircon 4whl disc and less agricultural rear suspension. I thought it would make a better base for Ferrari style convertable (275 rather than the usual 250) just needs a bigger heart.

First post . The 360 I built to use in wifes tow car but haven't run yet has cut down +.030 340 pistons +.070 for 360 ported J heads 2.02in 1.6ex by my calculations 11.5/1 comp designed for Lpgas single plane Edelbrock torquer manifold, standard 360 cast exhaust manifolds (bigger dia than 318) . Would be cheap conversion with 727 trans but think torque would require to much stengthening in280zx 2+2 convertable. Manual tremec conversion also too expensive. Thought I would use quad cam Lexus v8 as also cheap and better suited to R200 gearing.