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Ross I was looking at your companion flange adapters and was wondering why you dont just make a new companion flange? The possibility of out of balance problems and any long term weld failures being eliminated. Since Moser is already splining axles for you would it be that hard to broach splines into a new flange. Obviously this swap has great potential to be the must do swap for V8 conversions. In anticipation of your reply. Neil

Further info on possible vapour lock issue, the shop manual says to check fuel tank vent lines and the fuel tank vent valve, which is located under rear of car adjacent fuel pump. Remove from vehicle. It has three connections 2 out of its sides, one to fuel tank, one to charcoal canister the third out of the base, if you suck on this air should not come out, if you blow into it gently air should not flow, if you blow forcefully the diaphram should lift and air should flow freely. If not it should be replaced. Something I might just check on mine because I've been getting fuel tank pressure buildup and the odd problem like yours, of initial engine rough idle that clears, during this summer when ambient has been +30C. Further to under bonnet buzzing and flat exhaust sound, could that be a Turbo wastegate control issue. Something you can ask mechanic while their looking at it, not an area where I have any expertise. Further to Exhaust gasket question, if both flange faces are flat and bolts are done up correctly there shouldn't be any further problem. But if engine isn't running properly and vibrating a lot this could be working the joint loose again. Thats all for this morning. Good luck Neil.

H John as this is long distance diagnosis its definitely not the same as being there when you can work through things systematicly. In theory the intercooler could make any airflow meter or air temp meter, (both in the one unit), problems worse. Check that flap moves freely, particularly when cold. Heat problems of the type you describe would correspond to vapour lock but would be unusual in that ambient temp unless engine was running hotter than usual. ie bad thermostat. But could be affecting ignition module in distributer but you would expect other running probems. If youve had mechanics near exhaust sytem check that exhaust gas sensor wire hasn't been knocked off. You dont say whether the high speed vibration is when car is moving or stationary, if stationary it will probably relate to engine tune, if moving it could be a drive line item. Early Z expert may not be the answer for tune advice as ECCS is on ZXT is more like Z31 system. Good general Fuel injection expert should be able to trace most problems and name and explain reason for any component replacement. Odd one out of left field if car has been sitting awhile or has old exhaust system, check for loose baffles in mufflers which can cause intermitant blockages and overheating. Now that youve done injectors the only other thing that may dribble fuel into manifold is the start valve. The simplest way to check whether you have lean or rich mixture stumble at startup is have someone stand behind vehicle when you start it, if it puffs black sooty till it runs clear then you have fuel getting into manifold if not then vapour lock, low fuel pressure or ignition problem would be more likely. Personally I would consider ECU problems at the end after checking everything else, it analyses data from sensors to make a decision which is where the problems are more times than not. Thanks for feedback and posting in correct forum. Thats all I can think of for the moment, good luck Neil

I guess thats why living in Aus is so nice there is a totally different attitude to guns with no right to bare arms as in your constitution. Our death rates for stabbings are a little higher as a consequence but they have given new rights of seach to Police to reduce the amount of knife carrying in public. Like Guy i'm on five acres outside metro area with our road shared with the neighbour opposite so not much comes and goes without you seeing it well before it arrives at front door. Neil

John found the schematatic for ECCS in Haynes Manual on page 106 in chapter 4 Fuel injection and turbo charging I was going to copy and Email but you haven"t listed an address. Doesn't show BCCD so something less to worry about. Buying shop manual would be cheap source of info if you haven't done so already. 83 or series II cars as we call them would be my preference of 280ZX because of all the mechanical and body improvements, if you have one thats not rusty it will be worth the effort solving its teething problems. All the best Neil.

John Thats a good question as Aus didn't get turbo's the Aus factory manual doesn't have anything on it . In the Haynes manual that does cover it there isn't a schematic for the Turbo model in chapter 6 Emmission Control. So maybe with the ECCS ignition system they dont have it. Pre 1982 engines the BCCD is on the base of the throttle body and has an electric solenoid. 1982 onwards it is mounted on the manifold between 2 & 3 and is vacuum controlled. Most of the problems Ive had so far have related to vacuum lines falling off or splitting with age the most recent was one of the lines on the Vacuum tank which was split underneath where you couldn't see it at first. Good luck Neil

Hi Dan All Z31 r200s using tripod style driveshafts will retro fit into 280ZX with tripod style driveshafts but Z31 shafts aren't interchangeable as they are longer. Someone else might chip in to say whether Birfield 280 ZXT type shafts will fit Z31 diffs using similar birfield shafts. As Aus never got turbo cars I cant be sure. All the best Neil.

Ok John I know your desparate for answers but please just post in the most relevant forum only. Yes sounds like a misfire if you have replaced cap leads etc check that the cap isn't loose or the wrong rotor & cap combination. Check that sparkplug wasn't damaged during intall "ie broken insulator" causing intermitant misfire. If your starting to have problems with one injector I would replace them all as lifting the fuel rail is a time consuming job which you dont want to pay for more than once. If I remember right yours was an 82 car check the vacuum lines to the BCDD Device that resides under the intake manifold between No 2-3 intake branches an air leak here leans out cyl 2-3 mimicking misfire. Also check that you dont have a sticking EGR valve that will lean out No 6 Cyl mimicking misfire. Worst scene senario "Blown Head Gasket" but check ALL simple things first like loose or dirty wire connectors and loose or split vacuum lines. Good luck Neil.

Subdural We in Australia have a term for that sort of weird US behavior. Its called ""ONLY IN AMERICA!!!!!!!!!!!"" No I'm not being offensive but you guys sure do some things different to us and the same probably applies the other way around. But I sure as hell got a good laugh out of it. Neil

Zwick I am planning the same swap into my 280ZX and these engines can be bought for AU$1500 for engine & computer or AU$2500-3000 for front half cut. Both Rod Hadfield and Castlemaine Rod Shop do 5 speed man conversions and if you want to do porformance upgrades of engine check out Bullitt engineering in Queensland who do superhargers etc. Check out engineering requirements for your State before outlaying any cash and ADR issues.Simon Ball is currently building a GTO replica with this engine. last email address I had was mandyball@iprimus.com.au Advantages are its light weight and performance and reasonably priced against US Chev or Ford V8s. You may even consider a GM 3.8L supercharged AU$4500-6500 ex Commodore. Remember the expenses dont stop with the engine purchase. Neil

As a mechanic I have to disagree with D Carrow. I have always bled the shortest line first to get the maximum amount of air out of lines using the least amount of fluid 1lt of fluid should easily cover a full flush which you should do every 2 years to remove moisture and prevent corrosion. Yes start with M/cyl working back check for bleed srews in bias valves and any load sensing device. Remember air bubbles rise so put pressure on pedal before undoing bleed er if you bleed too slowly air can be trapped in high spots in lines. Philiow313. should solve it by the posts here. Neil

Hi Racer x As I said in my post up to 3/8", the trick is not to have the iron at its hottest or the solder stays liquid and falls through hole. Large holes can be filled bydrawing the iron out of one edge of hole while feeding in solder on the other ,yes it takes practice. If you can get an assistant to hold a piece of wood on the back of large holes makes it dead easy. Holes larger than 1/2" need to have a small piece of metal, in or behind, because the solder is too soft and will not support the finished surface. Yes use drill carefully ,all you need is a clean chamfered surface. Try it see how you go. Neil

Hi what I normally do is solder them , you dont get the distortion of welding. Easy when panel is horizontal but can also be done at an angle. Procedure. 1- Use drill larger than hole to chamfer top edge of hole. 2- Apply soldering flux to hole. 3- Using small soldering iron, preferable but not essential, spin tip of heated iron to set flux. 4- Now add small amount solder to 'tin' chamfered edge. 5- Now add sufficient solder to fill hole. 6- Then pluck soldering iron from hole leaving small ball of solder in hole, dont have iron too hot, you can fill holes up to 3/8th with a little practice. 7- Clean all flux residue off panel and file flat. I usually finish with acid based derust solution wiped over for good measure. Happy filling Neil.

There is still someone in Sydney selling them officially, but because we dont have anti monopoly laws like the US the slightest implication that it is similar to a Ferrari in the advertising etc ,the Ferrari clubs jump on it. Yes I have been into Reaction Research's site often, pity I dont live State side parts and kits are a lot easier to come by. Neil.

I do have other photos in print format but my scanners gone on the blink I will have to get a digital to make life easier. As I said I haven't cut the top off yet which is what you appeared most interested in. What I can tell you is that you can get square tubing inside the windscreen pillar and tie it into the lower "A" pillar for added support. If you have an early hard top car it has a lighter header panel than a "T" top car and would make a better header for convertible. Further to what I am doing to the Fiberglass body I have filled in the rear brake duct holes , will probably change the front ones to a scallop in the side and after reading that 280ZX book I will probably move from the GTO looking holes from the upper edge of the nose to the bottom . Anyway thats it for now Neil

dpiatkin in susp forum wanted to know where I was at so here goes. The project started in my head way back in the early 80s when I saw a GTO Datsun kit in a magazine and said I got to have one. After a number of companies here tried them the Ferrari boys always shut them down. 2 years ago I saw an add for the fibreglass only and on investigation I found the guy had the convertible kit as well so I bought it. To make a long story shorter I decided to modify it and put onto a 280ZX instead of 240- 260. So far Ive experemented and cut up one 280ZXshell, bought all my exterior lighting, modified Z31 front seats, bought an 83 car for rear susp and rack and pinion steering and use as test bed for further ideas. Ibought an S13 rear suspension to get aViscous Lsd centre and if I hadn't already bought all new rear bushes for the other I probably would have fitted the the whole thing. Ive updated my personal gallery to show the 83 car with the nose sitting on and the 275NART Spyder that is the look I am aiming for. I am modifying a ford (Murcury) soft top which will work in the wider fiberglass body but probably not in an original body. I am still driving the rust free 81 car that I bought and I hope to fit the Lexus 4.0 Lt and auto early in the year ten go on with the body work later in the year. A recent aquisition was a Nardi Anni 60 steering wheel which slowed the budget down a bit. Also got a factory 280ZX book with the original designs and its devevelopment. Once I have sorted all the body shapes I will use it as a buck and remould it so that I have a clean solid fiberglass shell again. I am tossing ideas around for the fuel tank as I want run dual exhausts out the back, any feedback from others would be great. Thats about it for this sitting Neil

Just a few additions to this post. 1 That R33 style rear suspension assy is the one that Ive posted before and said would be an relatively easy swap into 280ZX. 2 I considered that same idea on 280ZX but the original hubs are too wide. 3 For those with lower HP expectectations Ive come up with an idea for modifyiny tripod CVs off 200-240SX into 280ZX which when I get my shortened shafts back and checked all components in situ I will let you know. It enables the fitting of viscous LS centre.

Well Kyle, thats definitely being adventurous, what I've leant from my 280ZX convertible project is not to rush it because it just increases the work and expense. Nothing worse than doing things twice. If your looking for Z32 chassis dimensions you will find them at http://300zx-twinturbo.com/ in the body section of their online manual BF-42 All the best Neil.

Don probably little or no difference between them strengthwise as the the shafts are undercut to the same diameter near the splines and if they're like a normal axle that is usually where they should break. Neil

Hey Don Since you have both 280zxt & 300zxt axle aren't the z31 axles too long. The reason I ask is when I pulled a Z31 R200 the tripod style CV'S were way too long to use in my 280ZX. Neil

Hi Bill with 5 bolt axles & finned cover I would say it is R200V out of a Skyline which as the ad implies would bolt staight into S13. Probably standard 4.11:1 gearing. Neil

heyGuy Other way round 14 Ohms full and 82 Ohms empty, sorry doing in two posts probably made it confusing. Neil

Guy Given that most fuel guages aren't dead accurate I would think that, that range would be pretty close. I would think that it would just read shorter on each end and as most gauges usually read past the upper and lower ends of the scale it should be all right. Remember I was testing a used unit so the factory parameters may have varied slightly anyway. The half full point would only be 3 Ohms different based on the unit I measured and experience with a car is how you judge what fuel is left anyway. You also shouldn't run on the dregs in the tank thats where the shit usaully is. Go for it! Neil

Sorry Guy, left off some info, low resistance reading when in Full position, high resistance was in Empty position. Neil

Hello Guy, the sender that I have lying around out of a 1982 model reads 14 Ohms through to 82 Ohms hope thats of some assistance. Neil