softopz

Dexter - No I havent tried sparying starter fluid and I dont think I will. Mikeatrpi - Iam running EDIS wasted spark so terminal A sends spark to both 1 and 6 even if I was 180 off it would still be perfect. Update I am now getting a sputter but wont catch enough to idle so I guess Iam looking at messing around with Afterstart Enrichments. Before I go move on any longer I would like be sure of my ignition timing. My timing light however is not catching anything> Its either the magnecors , the light or I would need to atleast Idle.

Id really like to know whats going on I just finished wiring and installing edis in my l28et with ms2 and 2.88 code. I get a good rpm signal the injectors are clicking off, spark is nice and hot. I got good fuel pressure at 30 psi. I recently torn down the motor bored .5mm over, new pistons, rings, bearings, arp hard ware. Id like to know why I have to be stuck trying to figure this car out for the past 4 yrs!!! My guess is timing But the timing light I have doesnt flash with edis or cause of the magnecor wires. I set the the missing tooth 6 teeth before vr sensor with the motor on #1 tdc. My settings for ignition. I took all from the edis page in the megamanual. As per my wiring I got new circuit for the coil and ign module they both get 12v +. Any help would be nice.

I think your right there check your jumpers on the board

Did you load the code? If so try re flashing remember to REMOVE jumper on ms board. Usually the wierdest problems are caused by bad code flash. What msq are you using maybe you should attach so people can assist you more. Check your power to your MS and fuel pump see if gets 12v + power in switch and RUN. Cause you have power at distributor wire but thats a different wire.

great ! Good to hear now WHY WONT MY CAR START!

like i said get your ms if your really going to end up with it. That way you can ms your engine get in the world of standalone ecu, and learn to tune. You can even throw your turbo parts on there and destroy the old na motor and build the other one on the side good luck

My opinion is things tend to take longer, way longer when you do mroe than 1 thing at once. I know this dont swap the motor and ms at same time. I would ms your first engine that way you learn ms more and have more room for error. While your building your turbo motor on the side I guess.

might help saying what ms you have and code,,,, What I did is took a couple of msqs and altered them. I am not running my car so I wont post the msq yet. Since your only looking for a map for ignition and VE Iam sure there are maps for that there I seem to recall. open there msq in megatune then click export and save them. Re open in your car msq and recalculate fuel and set timing. I believe that should work. P.S> are you in quebec?

I remember when I first was wiring my ms in I had not set the code right so It wouldnt even get power to pump. Also if you have the boot jumpers on you MS wont give power to nothing.

UPDATE: I got a good tach signal and a SPARK @!! so the module is good and the coil is good ! What was it ? bad plugs on the module end really corroded inside I put some electric digrease and filed them with a tiny pin. I put the injector plugs on I hear the injectors going off but fuel only in cyl 1 and 2 I may have my injector drivers wrong how did you guys wire them ? Iam only using 2 pins off db37 each going to 3 injectors I believe. And what settings did you leave for injector staging? Wizardblack - my coil is the ford edis coil pack and my shielding is on one end only as well. Rolling Parts - I remember you doing a similair setup as mine. Bone stock l28et stock injectors and a narrow band. Did you get your car running or tuned? It would help looking at another msq. Now I have so much stuff to do I feel this is only the begining. I still have many issues to deal with. In the previous setup after the motor rebuild I really tried too many times to start it. So my oil is really fouled with gas and its really THIN viscosity. I dont think Iam getting a good seal anymore at the rings especially since so much gas was sprayed before. I hope I didnt reuin anything :S Here is a short list of things that needto be addressed: - drain oil, put oil in and flush and repeat. Then change filter. I think Iam going to go with some thick stuff - get new spark plugs especially since they are really fouled and what not doesnt help (any recommendations? stock gap is good? I cant imagine how inside the cylinders look I wish I can tear it up and check BUT I JUST REBUILT - get a new batterey this one is not taking anymore charge - check injector wiring and settings - get my timing locked down set the wheel 6 teeth after missing tooth right? (the engine on 1 TDC)

No one here wants to even touch ms especially tuner shops and just regular tuners. I was willing to pay just to finish up the car. Maybe I rushed the EDIS but I tried everything with that setup and still nothing. I am starting to believe I bought a bad MS2 unit from ebay. As far as wiring, don't rely on wire colors! My VR sensor has a blue and a grey wire and the VR input on the module harness also had a blue and a grey wire. You'd think that Ford would have the + and - to the sensor color coded? NOPE! I wasted days untill I figured out that blue connected to grey and grey to blue to get the polarity right between the VR sensor and the module. DOH! "the coil pack plug had only 3 wires" I just re-read your first post. the coil pack SHOULD have 4 wires (one +12 and then three control wires, 1 per coil pair). Bad choice of words or is it really missing one wire? Yah the coil wire plug HAD 3 wires my post topic before this dealt with this issue. I went and got the right plug for it, this was me trying to say the guy sold me some wierd ass plug. FORD is retarted because that plug did come from a EDIS 6 cause it has 4 pin holes but only 3 wires (and no body removed the 4th pin because the rubber seal had no hole in IT!>?!>!! that was wierd. And yes I switched around the VR wires nothing still. Moving on I will try to do the same test but with a normal coil and it should spark right?

Update its under the air cleaner. So I took my brothers module which is a working one I know this cause I just started the mustang. Still nothing SO its not the module looks like im crapshooting. I know my wiring is good , module is good. Its gotta be MS right? like I said in my original post Im going backwards I feel. Before EDIS with the dizzy I never got it to run but I had spark and fuel. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME it sucks seeing others post for first time and get the car running a week later, dont get me wrong Im happy for them but I been trying to get this car to run for sooooo long ! When I had the original ecu from 280zxt I got it to run and drive but it was so problematic I rebuilt the motor ! and Now Its been a year with MS with no luck!

hmm could be My brother has a v6 94 mustang know where they stash the ignition module?

Wizard Black posted this in my post for help. You can test your VR wiring and would narrow your issue http://www.heggs.co.uk/vrssim/wav/index.htm By the way you say its running and stop, also your not running the capacitor. Im sure its on the schematic for a reason. Try putting in wouldnt hurt.

UPDATE: -confirmed +12 v at coil and module -module is grounded -checked wiring of pin 24 and 36 from ms to module there is continuity with multimeter set on resistance. -checked PIP and SAW to module also continuity Both sets of wires above are shielded through pin 7 now where does the other ends of shielding go ? I have them just ending on there own I wired the stimulator no spark.... I did set my sound settings to 3d sterio and playing on both sides. So I should see spark right or atleast 1150RPM in megatune? So I guess I could have bad module or MS issue correct? either settings or jumpers?

Thanks allot wizard Ill try that later today. Yes Im getting a RPM signal in megatune goes to 161 and faints out. Its the first time I read about this VR stimulator neat stuff.

Hey I would check the board and go over the jumpers Ive had ones loosen up or change conitinuity seems like you are having an intermittent problem going and coming.

Ya I read the stickies. The stickies dont have information on troubleshooting. I put the wires on the plugs and no spark. Also Im seeing in megatune RPM is the tach signal.

well I do have a signal but its really weak and stops showing after 3 -5 cranks. I got ms2 3.0 board I was using the oboard coil driver and now I switched to EDIS. So when I had done the dizzy with coil driver The megamanual said to remove c12 and c30, so I did. Now Iam EDIS still using HALL/optical input but I removed one jumper from IGBTOUT to IGBT I believe anywho Should I put back c12 and c30? Because right now Iam getting a really weak tach signal (rpm)which = no fuel with no rpm.I feel like IM going backwards cause atleast with the old ignition system I had a tach signal but I never got it to successfully idle on its own. p.s. does anyone know the tests to do on EDIS parts? (just in case) module, sensor and coil pack ? I did buy from ebay and the coil pack plug had only 3 wires. Which I find really wierd.

his msq is attached in the rar file read the title first

wow blast from the past! thats hilarious

Its funny you just posted the link I was just going over the sticky not too much info on the capacitor thats the only thing thats got me confused. This diagram does show things a litter better. The thing is I dont have a capacitor and Iam a visual learning person hehe. Cause the ford capictor has only 1 wire to it clearly thats not going to work for me. Also not having a capacitor I cant see how many inputs and outputs it got so it should have atleast 3 tabs to wire 12v or ground to?

Ok I will find the proper connector however for the cap wiring I just got more confused; excuse my ignorance. How many pins are there on a capacitor? The one I have with the ford coil pack I guess I cant use there is only 1 wire connecting to it. I understood I should use a minimum of 20v or greater with a rating of 25uf. So a regular cap would have how many inputs on them? Your sayin one is for ground, one is recieving a 12v from lets say a new 12v fused circuit and another is 12v out to the coil?

for which diagram there are resistors that could be used for ms1 for the injectors but on ms2 its not necassary this is for the low impedance injectors. There are also resistors being used for tach inputs and what not

So is the capacitor that came with EDIS on fords a 25uf? Cause I went to a electronics shop and he asked me some questions and made me look stupid lol. From the way it looks like it just splits between the 12v switch power from Ignition Module to Coil pack? Should I use a dependant 12v for the Ignition module ? cause I think mine is spliced into fuel pump Aslo should use a dependant 12v for coil pack? Ok zya Im pretty much done my wiring except for the coil pack waiting for the coil pack connector. Would I be able to remove or add pins in a connector. It looks like to be a special tool / crimper. This is something I have been wondering for a long time. Would it be possible if I just added the last wire in the connector. Cause I have no time to go to junkyards and look for connectors. Also its good friday and the long weekend so everything is closed here.