softopz

Had the same exact issue it would lock the rear brakes with just a touch and nothing for front checked and checked, than bled and bled. Did you ever remove your booster? could be the reaction disk. Its a rubber seal that does wonders! heres the post from the sticky http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138712 good luck

Well I dont have my board handy but what do you have for tach in tach out its in the under the db37 on the other side in the corner.

hook up megasquirt just to a battery is fine with a laptop put your mouth to map hose and suck it lol I know it sounds funny but thats a good test to see. You should see your KPA get lower.

bump cygnusx1 If the tuner cant get it running would you like to some extra coin. You can tune however long you like We have identical setups I believe.

Did you have DIY autotune setup the board for EDIS ?

Maybe its time to tune other peoples cars ehem ehem HINT Its the opposite with me its been 4 years and its still not running this last year I switched to MS. Its still running rich (when it does run) now its at the tuner and he cant even figure it out.

wouldnt hurt to put some ne NGKs and change gasket. That will be a huge improvement and a good start.

Those pintle caps on the rb26 injector are almost identical size to the zx injectors and your rb30s *which are identical. Unlike the supra 440c there huge;however spray pattern looks better on the supras. Another bonus is injector clips are the same . I really recommend getting a an oring fuel rail the rb26 is an oring and needs that type of seal. Unlike your rb30 which are barbed inside that FI hose and tightened with an umbrella clamp .thats my o2 on that. Pallnet makes the 11mm and 14mm Oring rails. I got his o ring fuel for the supra injectors, and I gotta say its a nice tight fight with brackets to hold down to manifold. I havent gotten around to throwing them on Iam not sure If I have to increase the manfiold hole, use injector bodies? keep the bottem stock Oring that the injectors come with. Plus I still need the plugs first. So back to your setup. If I was to step up the injectors Id definatly do it right the first time. If you want to retain your stock rail than use a barbed style injector I believe mercedez benz 550 and jaguar injectors are identical. Goodluck

check if that black plug is getting spark.

SICK! thats makes you the first on this forum. So it uses the GM valve>? how is it wired? So within megatune you put the desired amount of boost to run?

My friend is having the same issue I think its from his wiper cover seeping through firewall and into the car.

thats why i said atleast 5hp

I just checked out the auszcar link and wow thats real nice. My car has a vynl top that it originally came with from the dealer. Here is a pic

go nistune!

No way a stock 280zxt downpipe is 3 inch because the outlet of the turbo is 2.5 ...its 2.5 cast iron with 2 90 degree bends. I think you can pick up another 5hp atleast with a new custom 3" dp. impressive gains though now turn up the booooost baby

Ill try to get it running properly than see if the problem goes away, lets keep our fingers crossed. Iam not in the mood to pull it apart again.

304 hp sounds right for a stroker turbo running 12-14 psi

Its not anything external I shot the video with out alternator waterpump and fan pulley. My oil pressure is good, I remember getting plastigauges for the machine shop because they bored/honed the block. They said it was good he gave it back to me with the crank in. Then I put the rest of it together.

Glad to see yours is up and running . Maybe you could post the msq after the dyno tune on Map post. The car looks real nice.the colour and body kit; would like to see more pics . I do have a set of swatiskas turbo wheel s that would look amazing hint hint haha

I just went to EDIS you have to consider some things though, new wires if your going to use the ford coil pack you can keep your old wires if you use the GM coil pack. I went ahead and bought the Edis mounting kit from Derek great stuff. I had issues with my hub/trigger wheel but it was cause I was using a different crank pulley. It really makes the whole change over completly easier. I think you should consider Rolling parts post. It could still be a fault in your ms or wiring. Wouldnt hurt to shield some wires.

I shot a video of the noise Turning by hand and a little of the datsun garage Non running Here is the link. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmqTZ8o-7rU Here is the link the sound comes High squeel. This one is running. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PewmUqUoFEI What you guys think?! serious? So last night I pull out oil pump, dizzy gear and then turn by hand. Still squeeks ok. Removed cover , tensioner and chain guides still Squeeks. Looks like its coming from the crank possibly a main bearing? This really sucks I just rebuilt it I used all new parts (rod/main bearings, pistons, piston rings/pin, ARP hardware) Today I put everything back on what a Joy that was. Im so pissed hopefully it goes away during a good run or two; when I get ms tuned properly. When it was on the engine stand during the rebuild, and after dropping the motor in running with the original l28et eccs I didnt hear that noise. Could it be I messed up bearings from too many attempts at starting with ms2 gas flooding?:S

The tensoiner is a block mounted to a rod that sits in the front of the engine and has a spring pushing it out. yes I know what the tensioner is I just put together the motor. I was reading the manual and it says the tensioner is adjusted and operated by oil pressure, however I dont remember seeing that much complexity. Dizzy gear that sounds interest could be. Well theres only one way to tell tomorrow Im removing it and going to sping the crank pulley manually and see what comes out. Question. Since Iam running EDIS does it matter which postition my oil pump shaft/dizzy shaft is inserted. I will still do it per manual Just in case it pumps/sprays oil at a certain time.

I just rebuilt my l28et I got it running last week with ms2 for first time. It idles nice and I still got lots of tuning to do. Soon as I rev anything over idle a large squeeky noise comes out of front timing cover. Sounds like a belt but its actually in the motor. Iam pretty sure its the timing chain tensioner I think its too close. I used all new parts however when Iwas rebuilding I fealt something was not right. Is the tensioner controlled by oil pressure? I remember a spring a little ball and that block. Anyone want to shed some light this way would be great. Looks like Ill be having to cancel tuning for now to go this corrected.

Exactly! And you got some mean a$$ torque. I have never seen that big of a difference between the two though. Maybe its a bad dyno?

hey delorean, I recently rebuilt my motor l28et and I got it running good enough than that sound came around. Iam not sure if the same as yours. I narrowed mine done to the chain tensioner rubbing the chain and its a squel almost like a belt squeel. I am re opening the front cover and going to correct it. Just a thought though , Iam not there so I cant say. Is it making the sound when you rev? on load? is it coming from the side front or rear? good luck pointing it out