softopz

I got my rebuild kit from falcon global they had a listing on ebay for a l28 NA I simply called them and they instantly made a l28et auction for me. dished pistons .5 mm over(ITM), rod/main bearings (clevitte), full gasket set(fel pro), freeze plug set, piston rings(dont remember) ,piston pins, timing chain set (chain, tensioners, crank/cam sprocket and oil pump for like 350 I thought it was an amazing deal. They used ITM pistons which make good "oem replacement" parts. I was torn up between that and 2gs forged internal,custom cam the big turbo kit from top end. Iam sorta regretting but oh well. edit if your real concerned about matching original engine or car then rebuild the motor. Howeverif your not concerned just get a junkyard motor theres tons of l series engines these things never quit. That is the best ,cheapest and quickest solution.

WOW I just re read most of it AMAZING good job Derek well deserved. I too am having issues with ms just tuning at this point. The edis parts you made were amazing. Did you ever get that rich condition sorted out?

there is a screw on the throttle body when your turn it wise it raises or lower the idle.

really Nice I love the enkeis, get some center caps though. What ECU are you running I didnt catch it above.

Nice install way better than mine lol but its just a fuel pump not a turbo. Is yours a 240z? cause the 240z didnt come with rear sway bars. I know mine doesnt, but it is a early 71. Probally th PO of your car took it from a later s30.

It will get you to 260 hp easier but you did mention you are looking for drivability. Not that 2.5 " wont. Hows this get rid of that NA muffler and go with a 3" magnaflow muffler. Just run a reducer then if that still doesnt cut it you can always change the rest.You also mentioned you wanted power pretty low so what if the turbo spools faster My setup with my l28et 2.5"downpipe ----> 3" ---> 20 " resonator no muffler yet, its not loud at all. You also have to consider turbos muffle it down, however if you do change the exhaust side of the turbo to a t4 than it will be much louder.

Good luck fellow hybridz z brethren . We all know how messy MS can be.

GOOD WORK I really havent heard (yet) the extrubody ITB setup my brother and I were considering taking 2 keep up the good work....and dont forget to update

I believe I had 12 going in you should be fine but a second opinion wouldnt hurt.

yah thats very acceptable. I know what you mean but yours looks good. I had the same concern of the VR not running "through" the wheel flat, alsomine is not centered right (the wheel has a little of a wobble run out my fault not DEREKS) I have no issues yet. I get a constant rpm signal doesnt fade or nothing. As long as it meets the tolerances of edis 0.030 to 0.060 inch gap (0.75 mm to 1.5 mm). The sensor does not have to be directly centered but it would be good. The trigger wheel looks thinner than the stock one but looks like Derek made a nice one still for you. If anything put 2 mm spacers just to push it outward> Iam running the powerforce pulley and I ran 2 cm spacers! and it still works however Iam waiting for the new hub.

booom boooom POW tranny problems :S

Very nice setups guys I havent seen any EDIS Setups so ill pop the cherry on this thread. Here is my240z l28et ms2 edis before l24 l28et swapped stock mid way rebuilt motor stock eccs notice it looks like the n42 intake but its the 280zxt you can see where the pop off valve is plugged but welded the whole next to it AAC? done? nah the fun is just begining ms2 + edis ignition

Are you going to use GM sensors? For me I found the thread not to be the same but be GENTLE with it cause you can get to catch and seal but dont overtighten or it will crack like mine did. Dont worry about clean or not clean its a hard to see area. the ones with extra holes just plug em.

ITS RUNNING AND IDLING ON ITS OWN !!!!! lots of smoke still has a nice healthy idle too ! Takes a little to start. The smoke was burning my eyes though. There is lots of "tuning" to be done. I have a new data log of the beast. I dont have a wideband however that is on top of the list. There is a major squel coming from the timing cover I thought it was the belt but I think its the chain tensioner rubbing. I''ll have to deal with that issue as well. Here is the latest data log and here is the Video Datsun 240zT2.rar

Hey guys major update. IT RUNS WELL SORTA heres the deal.... I went and got a good batterey and new plugs. With the new plugs the light started flashing I guess they transmit spark better and shows to the light more effecient anywho. I disconnected db37 essentially running EDIS on "limp home mode" then I turned the wheel around till I got it to flash around 10-15 btdc. So now it I get a good sputter going and I got to run a little bit. However it doesnt idle nor rev nicely, there also is allot of black/grey/blue smoke smells like gas. The plugs are fouled in carbon/fuel. I am uploading my msq with the data log that I took. I tried to change the req fuel higher and lower still did not help, then played with cranking pulses lowered them still nada; ASE percentage and warmup still not too good. Could you guys give me some more insight the help has been more than great and I could not do it with out you guys. I would really appreciate if somoene could look over my complete msq in review mode. And the attached data log may help out a bit. Keep in mind my setup is f54 block bored .5 mm over p90 head 240sx TB and TPS GM air and water sensors EDIS ignition stock 280zxt injectors ms2 2.68 (I Believe) NO intercooler stock boost Datsun 240zT.rar

Hey thanks for the ideas. Yes I get a constant rpm signal doesnt fade on or off. I also do have cheap plugs 2 sets I keep alternating them around cleaning them. They arent new by any means but I havent put any mileage on them. I dont have a wideband my brother does, I was thinking of just getting to atleast idle and somewhat driveable before any wideband tuning. I havent got around to touching the car yet I get so frustrated with the project every now and then I really need to back off. Start gathering ideas/ research and get back at it.

The ignition is working , I got a tach signal and I have spark. Its a matter of "tuning" cranking pulses and ASE I believe. Or my injector wiring may be incorrect that its banking too much?! or not enough like I said previously I had wired my injectors 3(inj) per 1 bank off db 37 and same for the other. If i do it like that how much squirts per stroke? I wish someone was close to toronto or montreal with MS experience to help me. Willing to pay cause I have done everything in my power.

Yah im getting an rpm signal 150 -180 showing in megatune. My coil pack and plug wires are wired exactly like that. What unplugging the SAW going to do? put in limp mode 10 degrees btdc right. So are you guys proposing I unplug the SAW and put the light on it aha I see. Then see where 10 degrees should look like on the wheel. If Im wrong please correct me. I'll try that for sure any other ideas?

I will get a fresh batterey, open the throttle screw all the way. Put the motor in the sun maybe it will evaporate some of the gas, the ndry the plugs and play with fuel settings a bit. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks Moby In megatune there is a floodclear mode option. Im on the desktop now but I think it says 70 %

The required fuel number there is a calculator I used in megatune and I put the inector sizeand got 12 I believe stock zxt injectors. No I havent tried full throttle. What exactly does that setting do? I have my injectors wired up to 2 wires on db 37 splitting into injector loom 3 injector per bank. How should I leave my settings in megatune? ya good compression all across I have drained the oil since starting edis with the dizzy i got to run but I had to keep on the throttle. It ran really rich and the oil was really thin.

The plugs are wet. Moby are you suggesting I try a different timing light? the thing with EDIS is you can get very close to static timing; by setting the wheel while the engine is on tdc and place the wheel six after missing tooth. I dont imagine it being that off. I dont have another timing light at the moment. I find they work well when the engine is already idling or reving. Iam going to upload my msq if anyone can take a look at it maybe I have something completely wrong.

anyone please im desperate for help!!!

i soaked them in fuel injector cleaning. and then change the pintle caps and hoses from a kit I got on ebay.

I didnt intent this to be starter fluid vs gas starter method of choice. Its a fresh rebuilt engine and I did not want to use anything but a proper way of starting a car. It should start on its own, compression is good, fuel pressure good, and so on. However Id really like to see whats going on in the timing department but the light is not picking up a signal?! So I can stop thinking of timing and work on cranking / ASE enrichments. On a side note when I had the distributor on the car I also did the on board coil ignitor I remember reading the megamanual and removing c12 and c30 would this affect it?

Hey Pallnet the coolant temp sensors on the eccs are known for the wierdest issues. I wouldn't over look it.