softopz

Thanks zya So the guy sold me the right coil pack with all the right hardware except the pigtail? That is definatly not it right? (maybe the VR is also different from module and what not)? Cause I remember somethings having to match from the same car. Okay so im on my way to get a radio filter, and shielding cant find this stuff no where. I'll also look for the 25uf capacitor. I think ill try radio aka circuit city now in Canada. I wanna do this right i dont want any noise issues im also upgrading my alternator from a zx unit and already did the diode mod. Also got some magnecor wires so those should supress all that noise.

Im just about to begin my wiring on the EDIS, I already got the wheel and sensor hooked up ms2 is all wired from previous just switching to EDIS. I looked at the v3 edis and edis stickys theres no info on wiring. Now I am looking at the schematic for the EDIS 6 wiring Im using all the ford hardware including the coil pack my first question is 1. From the Ignition module there are 4 wires that run to coil pack 10 11 12 and the power . I only have 3 from the diagram Iam suppose to have 4 ?! 2. pin 4 from ms forum shows unused and here on hybrid there is a revised pic that says "signal return GND" where does that hook up this I found under corrected wiring from "hisandherz" which diagram should I follow the revised or the ms website? which should I follow. The 25uf and 1N4003? resistors>? is it a must? Lastly "flux capictor" thing what am i suppose to do with it? lol

Is megasquirt lit up? It is has to have power from 12v Is the usb adaptor configured right I remember I had to do something like set the buffer . From the device manager just after installing the drivers properly. There is a program there to test if you have communication. also there is a great page on communication issues. its really informative its on megatune.info in troubleshooting. Also you need to say what step your exactly having trouble with are you using the proper boot loader program there is one for ms 1 and ms 2 I believe. If your sayin the board saying 2.2 and your using wiring for 3.0 you need to check if thats ok before even loading firmware.

You know what your right there is no maps exactly that setup but there are many guys on edis and many on different sensors and what not. What you need to do is make your own msq easily or take someones exact setup i found 2 or 3 like yours and change slight values. ie ignition change to edis and put trigger angle 0 thats all! or from wideband to selecting narrow band save as and your good to go, recalculate your fuel in the req fuel part of megatune, set your timing and your gonna have the same ignition map weather its edis or dizzy. the only values that differ is trigger angle and offset but you wont get into that with edis. Is your setup all wired and good to go? I actually have your same exact setup its not running Im just wiring in the coil pack and vr soon.

Hey Derek I know it looks like that but now at least it sticks out, and people will be like hey you got EDIS.,,, hehe I know it looks funny still. But for real I think I brought the bolts almost perfect and I dont think the run out is huge, that pic is not showing true center. How far does the VR have to be ? or should I say how close. Besides from the top it doesnt pass the fan pulley and im not going to run the mechanical fan or anything. In the future I plan to put a Fan triggered by MS that will be on the front of the rad. Ill still get you the measurements if you like. Are you proposing to use the same wheel or the laser cut ones? So today Igot the wires they look good. Funny story I forgot to add in the post aboveif any of you guys are getting the wires using the ford coil pack and bracket just contact MAGNECOR order the same wires .. I told the REp on the phone i dont have measurements just gimme what DEREK had from Ocala FL. and sure enough he found the specs. Just another point to make a less hassle conversion. They only come in red for that series. Its good looking wire though for 89 + 9 shipping and came fast too. Now all I gotta do is wire this thing. Im running the on board ignitor so - First thing remove jumpers. - I am going to upgrade the alternator at the same time ! - Cant forget to obviously time the beast set on #1 compression stroke and 6 teeth before missing tooth right? - Shield the wires definatly! and get a radio filter ! wow so much to do I hope it finally runs IM GETTING REALLY EXCITED! - Then for ingition capture do I jumper back to HALL/OPTICAL or VR? I am getting confused back to the megamanual for me. ergh I remember Removing some i hope it doesnt affect anything Someone needs to clean the stickys. I cant remember the stickys having info that sticks out like the my hub lol oh my its gettin late and im making corny puns. been a looooong night.

I dont know if this has to do with it but are you running the internally regulated alternator? If so did you do the proper splices putting diodes in the plug.

Just to let the other members know if they already upgraded to the MSA perfomance pulley the (powerforce dampers$99 one), they can still use dereks parts to switch to EDIS. I recieved my parts not too long ago and I completely jumped on buying them totally forgetting that Derek had made this for a certain pulley. I had the MSA pulley and was expecting to ditch it for my old one, however that also was completely different. So I opted to use the parts with the same pulley. First of all the adaptor holes that are pre drilled come within a milimeter to just mounting with out drilling. I drilled two different holes I believe 7cm but check for yourself. The good thing about it is the Hub its centered to the bolt of the crank so I believe I got really well centered with out too much headache. Then I mounted the VR sensor mount and measured how far The sensor mount is away from the 36-1 wheel. It was exactly 2 cm away. Another Another good thing is even with the hub adaptor not sticking inside the damper it was designed for. It doesnt stick out too much past the fan pulley. Not only are DEREKS pieces very well built but another nice thing was the VR sensor consists of two pieces so you can push it away from the motor or cut the second piece and bring it closer. And thats what I did. I went to the hardware store and got some longer bolts. So you can see the spacers I used was 2 cm away. So for you guys thinking to switch to EDIS I REALLY RECOMMEND GETTING THESE PARTS make your life allot easier. I would do without the hub and get a DIYautotune. 36-1 wheel and then just shorten the VR sensor distance. Also the VR Plug gets closer to belt but clears away.

what do you have for your spark setting in megatune. Would be nice to know the firmware used and megatune hardware. Going backwards Do you have the proper jumpers on the board?

Hey , before i even looked at page 2 i had a feeling your jumpers on the board are not set right . First thing take a pic of the back of your board where your jumpers are and post it here. That would help people assessing your issue. Secondly dont go getting information from any boards stay true to hybridz diyautotune and ms forums. Go to megasquirt website and look at the step where you have to choose ignition setup, there you will see what you have to do when it comes to jumpers. If your running the 280zxt dizzy you are looking for the HALL optical type. Then since your using the coil and going to fire from ms2 go diyautotune for the right up for direct coil control from ms. I know my post seems to get you backtracking but these are the things you would need to check first and foremost. I would thirdly check if there is continuity between coil and ms PIN 36

when i get home ill tell you to re insure im

You do have those colours if you have a turbo dizzy im not sure about the NA ones. I was also confused but there are those set of colours you mentioned those are the pig tail that comes of dizzy . Than theres the green , black , green/yellow and another colour that come from the efi harness.

dude dont listen to these guys telling you dont do it. ITs a fairly simple engine even if you have no engine rebuilding experience its fairly easy just get a machine shop to re hone or rebore the cylinder walls and get a friend to help you with cam timing and chain.

sounds like a vacuum leak not letting it build boost try removing the pov and plug it with a 1 inch pipe plug and the MAF doesnt look normal either. I dont remember mine looking like that, from what your saying sounds like a nice car.! edit that definatly looks like a puncture in the MAF and they are very sensitive worst comes to worst just get another if you dont take it I will

i dont know 232 doesnt seem inexpensive to me thats like the same price as a ms2 unit

ya its the same doesnt hurt to go a little bigger. But its sufficient.

your next step is to check timing and when that is spot on lower your req fuel

12 v ok thats good but its ground fired ....it coud be software or hardware (still could be wiring) check again in injection control how much cylinders you have seleced. and is it alternating / simaltaneous and how many squirts per cycle OR it could be a hardware the inj driver output on one bank isnt working you can test this as well, first start with checking you wiring at the board make sure there continuity from injectors to behind the pigtail at the board (where the pin is going into pigtail) there lies the usualy wiring problems know what I mean? do this with a multimeter set it to measure resistance put one end red or black at the board at both INJ drivers for each one there are two, then put the other at injector plug ground of course. If you get 0 on multimeter you wiring is good. Check all 4 drivers. OK now you have injectors firing,.,,, could be the inj driver gone bad especially since 1 bank works after you switched wires and the other doesnt. Heres your temp solution for now run all the injectors to same bank under megatune under inection control run simaltaneous 1 bank I think that would work until you fix your driver for INJ on the board

I had the same issue with the injectors was brief though, what worked for me is I put the injectors in a test mode in megatune. I think thats under tools but you are running ms2 extra I dont know how different it is. Anyways you have to power cycle the unit and make sure you dont set the opening close time too high you can fry your injectors. Than you can here them going off, you have to set the time,#times to open and close and pwm value. Be sure to set your MS back to normal from the settings. GOODLUCK and I dont think you need noid lights because in the test mode it doesnt power anything else and you can hear them going off> DISCLAIMER you are putting fuel in engine if you have fuel pressure I suggest release fuel in rail and it wont burn and i mean allot of fuel Isuggest releasing the pressure and dont run the test to long. edit I vividly remember doing this and i wasnt firing injectors before , after i did the test it like unstuck them though i had lots of fuel thrown in cylinders! so be careful dont set it too HIgh

wow thanks man That helps allot I VOTE STICKY

wow your still going I been watching these forever i cant imagine how much it would cost with out help of sponsors

no worries man its winter here got all the time . Get better enjoy the holidays too

any new updates ?

Thanks for all the help Matt I really do appreciate it. I will try to get in touch with Peter . What do you mean by suprises did (gary)fuelandspark have issues with there boards? Arent the assembly instructions the same /? I know each build is different to tach input but how different can it get?