softopz

how is the compression of the motor? what mods are your on your board ie jumpers? do you know your fuel pressure before cranking in the ON position?

"Now what is the correct firing order for the edis module. is pin 10 cyl #1 & 6, or is pin 12 considered #1. I am so confused at the moment. but I believe the above are correctly decoded. Am I wrong? " 10 is first then 12 then 11 Yah now your illustration is right. no it actually isnt cause you just switched the letters with numbers!?! But forget about any colour coded wires/numbers/letters or illustrations at the moment. Just follow these steps and let us know whats happening. 1- Remove the DB37 connector this will put edis in limp mode (for step 2) and so you wont flood your engine. Your ignition should still spark IF you have the module and coil pack with there own seperate power which you should have if its wired properly. 2 - Check your timing remove all your spark plugs and lay them on the valve cover. This way the engine cranks faster and the timing light will have a easier time picking it up. Put a timing light on 1 and crank her up you should be getting 10 degree advance..If not than clock it appropriatly. 3 - Wire pin 10 from module to coil and the +12v. Put a spark plug to each terminal see which one sparks. Which ever one that fires mark/scribe A that terminal will be for 1 & 6. Then do the same for pin 11 that one will be B cylinder 3 & 4. And the last you obviously dont need to do that will be C and will go to 5 & 2. This method will eliminate confusion because some coil packs may be different or you could have been following bad illustrations ( I know this first hand ) megamanual labels A B C left to right with the plug down that wasnt the case for me. when I saw your illustration I got confused toO! and you made me think "hey what if I was wrong again" because a week ago I had started a thread exactly about this. BRAAP just added some more info to the post please read the whole thread Hopefully clears things up for you and she'll start unless you got other issues. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=152178 this is the thread

I had mine wrong but before starting this thread a week ago I corrected. Then last night after seeing zxtbean coil pack illustration I start thinking "hey what if mine is still wrong?!" so yah this clears up allot of confusion I personally like the colours in your illustration thanks again for taking the time to do that. My VR sensor is mounted using Dereks pieces very well built! I installed the EDIS setup put it in limp mode and saw if I was getting the 10 BTDC, then I put it back looked at my ignition map to see what MS was asking and it gave me that same numper according to the MAP pressure. So I know its clocked right and timing was good. Just that when I corrected my spark plug wiring it started right up idled beautifully too! A week later now its not even running?~! so ya I do have other issues. What exactly.? I wish I knew

I agree with him you do suck! not cause of the crafstmanship I love that But I was going to do the same exact thing But I gotta get my car running PROPERLY!

To me this looks wrong. L series engines fire 153624 and the firing order of the coil is 132 or ACB, assuming you have it wired the ignition module to coil pack correctly. so you should have: cylinder 1 = TERMINAL 1 cylinder 5 = TERMINAL 2 cylinder 3 = TERMINAL 3 cylinder 6 = TERMINAL 1 cylinder 2 = TERMINAL 2 cylinder 4 = TERMINAL 3 correct me if Iam wrong guys. We need this cleared up and stickied because I had trouble with this too, and the megamanual was giving out wrong information. I actually had a post about this topic last week. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=152178

whats is your req fuel set at it? Do you have a timing light ? what are you getting while cranking? make sure thats set right before you do any "tuning" I know Iam going back, but what jumpers are on your board ? Mobys write up pertains to MS1 but at the distributor its all the same wiring. do you have the right settings for your injectors? pwm , opening time.. thresh hold get rid of the Rising rate FPR and get any 76-83 FPR that will yield you 30 psi I believe. Also get rid of the stock CHTS and get a GM CTS it is already programmed throught MS. What do you have for Air sensor?

wow good work andrew! time for the 300zx cvs!

this is an air damn for a 240z right ? which mounting points did you use?> anything in the middle. Iam doing the same but opposite in air damns putting a xenon air damn made for a 260 and 280z on a 240z I hope I dont run into too much trouble. Looks pretty straight forward drill 2 holes on each end but I dont see anything holding in the middle.

Yah I actually have specifically that thread at least 10 times I dont know how I missed it hehe . I never seen that drawing till now. Maybe cause its long of a thread and topics were getting side tracked. What Iam also getting it is coil packs could also differ, or not to go on and rely everything that is written on the web. Like yourself and myself we had to verify in practicality I hope the megamanual changes that article. Anywho Menzer was also in my situation and Iam sure there are others.

Where to start? I been diagnosing my EDIS ms2 l28et setup for over a year. I never once though to question the EDIS firing order. according to the megamanual EDIS page: "6 cylinder (EDIS6): On a 6 cylinder engine, the coils in a 6 terminal pack fire ACB (with ABC left to right with the connector on the bottom). Coil A fires first and should be connected to cylinder #1 and its complimentary cylinder. The coil C should be connected to the cylinder that fires after #1, and its complimentary cylinder. The remaining two cylinders should be connected to coil B. For example, with a 6 cylinder having a firing order of 123456 (GM 60° V6), you would connect coil A to 1&4, coil C to 2&5, coil B to 3&6. On EDIS6, coil A is connected to pin 10 of the EDIS module, coil B is connected to pin 11 of the EDIS module, and coil C is connected to pin 12 of the EDIS module. If these are connected the other way around, the coils will fire in a different order, and the spark plug wires will need to be rearranged. " I found this to be completely wrong it says ABC from left to right with the plug down. I put 3 spark plug wires with spark plugs to each terminal and wiring only A pin 10 from ign module what happened was the last spark plug sparked and I WAS SHOCKED (not from the spark) which I though was C. I found B was the middle one and C was the first terminal looking at it from left to right. Dont believe me you do the same test. How are you guys wiring your EDIS? Well I think you probally re timed your wheel far enough for it to spark at the right time. I was having a problem with only 3 cylinders running each one from a different terminal and the other 3 werent sparking as hot. This was due to firing order being wrong and the wasted spark was going to the cylinder with the least exhaust gases, and going to the one with the most atomization. Through a pm I told another member who is also having trouble with his ms2 EDIS and BAMN it started. Just thought Id let everyone know. I am so excited finally my car is running some of you may know I been having a long time getting this setup to run. And now its a matter of tuning the thing and getting all the little things out of the way.

Thats a really really nice swap. That motor stock is rated at 300 hp and it so easy to get 450 + out of those things. In a z31 should screammmm! What are you using for engine management system the stock z31? you can always tune that thing if you go nistune. Which utitlizes the original nissan ECU. Do you have the exhaust system fabbed? please keep us updated and welcometo the forum

exactly so if you dont have it on a original carb car it will stay on. isnt that right? so why is it so hot that it melted the wire?! with that plug/adaptor/diode there it shouldnt have had any problems isnt that a correct assumption? how about the bottom half of the coil? should it spark just as liek the top towers?

ok so Iam that customer. To clarify this is an ms2 system not msns(ms1) The wheel is correct however this is really confusing. Because my timing marks were removed when isntalled the vr sensor, however my brothers setup has the timing marks on the other side?! so I decided to get the light showing in that proximity (like my brothers car). And the car fired up ran okay not great. We have some issues that are quite strange. for example. The car seems to run only on 3 cylinder but sounds like more which is strange (verified by removing Fuel injector plugs and narrowing it down to dead cylinder and with timing light) So it seems like the bottom row of terminals ABC of the coil pack are the ones that are causing weak spark. It doesnt show with the timing while engine is running. Which are cylinder 246 according to the megamanual looking at the ford coil pack with connector at the bottom from left to right terminals ABC in order. And the firing of therminals are ACB so I have my spark plug wiring like A=1&6 C=5&2 B=3&4 so why are the bottom terminals weak. Another issue is I upgraded to a zx alternator and I got this guys little adaptor that includes the diode. Apparently that got real hot and this is affecting the way the engine is running. Could be the cause of the terminal problem I wont know for sure till I get a different coil or fix this alternator issue. I thought I needed that adaptor cause I read that the car wont turn off(if switched off) But then I thought Iam running FI not carbs now and I got MS2 and everything is fed of the ignition switch so if I killed the ignition switch it will definatly shut the car off. So thats where this thing stands right now

Your definatly from canada "presidents choice" hehe oh ya SICK turbo its going to suck little animals in for sure!

Why would put a used head gasket ?! A compression test wont tell you the condition of your headgasket you need a leak down test. Could be you got a bad tune or your having problems with the tach pick up. On the SdS controller are you getting synch or tach error?

when you switch to aftermarket tach do your signals still work>? mine arent I guess cause the circuit goes through the tach gauge and thats where it lights up.

Nice build . I just read all 9 pages keep it up. Iam sure you have learned allot while doing this. I know I did just from reading. This information through the whole build is really good for people wanting to swap a 1jz or 2jz

Thanks dude I appreciate the help. I Dont want to high jack this thread but ya I have tried everything possible with this car and thats why its at the tuner. Unlike stony Iam not cheap its just a pride thing. I have done this thing from day one and its the first time the car is out of the garage Plus they always trying to get you to do something else with the car. Rolling parts could you post your msq in the map sharing post. I remember you had said you working on a baseline stock setup.

ogdensburg NY. Where abouts are you