jhill

The R-200 in my 280z turbo I have now is toast, sooo I needs me another one. I really don't want another peg-legger so some sort of LSD is what I'm really looking for, I'd even settle for a welded diff in good condition. I also really don't have to the time to be converting to cv axels so a diff. that will except the halfshafts is a must! I've only gotten to drive my turbo swap for 650miles so I'm dying to get it back on the road! Please let me know what you have

Hey my stock setup is running really rich, maybe if we drive really fast, hit head on, our cars will fuse together and run great

Yup yup. Did the same thing, just make sure you put the wire back to the right pin on the connector

b.c.d.d. valve?

Ok, so lets just skip everybody telling me to get a wideband gauge because I bought this for 30 dollars . With that said, I know that it's not a very good tool, and very innacurate but mine seems wildly inaccurate. When I start it its right above lean, it idles in the same spot it drives in the same spot (roughly). When I'm at WOT its very very lean, very lean. Then as I drive, it slowly starts reading leaner and leaner until its on the lowest possible red light. Is my O2 sensor bad? Is the gauge reading correct? Or is the gauge just not really working at all? Hmmm, let me know what your thinking.

Phew. Got the car back to normal. Cylinder 5 was not firing at all, the wire like burned itself up and the connector to the spark plug was broken. Alson on 5 the injector wasn't firing because of all of the buid up on the metal part of the connector. It was just really wierd, too coincidental that it started running so badly right after a high rpm mistake like that. I do think the turbo needs a rebuild though, ehh good time for an upgrade. Oh and Thanks Kyle G

This all happened very quickly so I did't have any time to react other than to save the car from spinning out. I was driving home and it was wet out, I pulled through second gear out of a lazy corner and all of a sudden the tires broke free, the engine shot up to redline and I had all I could to save it. I know it wasn't really a good idea to come out of a wet corner like that but I can't change that now. All I have is a narrowband crap afr gauge that doesnt really work correctly to begin with, but all I caught out of the corner of my eye was alot of red meaning it was leaning out. (Although the gauge always is off and changes when you draw off the battery like when the headlights are on so I can't asssume it's very trustworthy.) Anyways, I pull up to a light about 500 yards down the road and bam, the car starts sounding like I'm only running on 5cylinders or something. So I take it really easy until I can pull into a parking lot. I figured one of the injector connections came loose, I've had that happen before ( I really need to get new connectors for the injectors, they're pretty shot). Nope, everything good. So I took it up and down the street today, same stuff. I did a compression test on it and the numbers are much lower than the original test I took 6months and only 100miles ago. Those numbers ranged from 139 to 145. The new ones came in 105 to 120. Now when this all happened I didn't hear detonation, and I get no knocking, no unusual smoke, just runs really rough, has a decent vibration that seems like it's coming from the engine, not from the u-joint that needs replacing, And the turbo sounds great until it comes down off spooling up and then it sound like the blades are scraping on the inside of the housing or something. So, did I grenade something? Time for a rebuild or just more troubleshooting? Any input is greatly appreciated. Criticism too, I can take it.

Does'nt big phil have this in his car? I think I saw it in his videos.

Did the car ever start? I'm pretty sure s30 computers were pretty much the same, they got a little different later on but still your computer, if not fried, should be able to start the car. Have you checked the FSM to make sure the fuel pump itself is good? Do you have spark?

The green LED does go off during cranking, do the injectors prime when the key is set to the on position?

Not much else to say, I have an '82 turbo motor, bad afm. Soooo if somebody has an AFM for a turbo zx I'd really like to buy it from ya. Thanks Josh

No you shouldn't 'have' to use any of the original '75 wiring that goes to the coil. Also I just finished all of my wiring and I didnt see any either of those two things you show, hmmm

Actually I did figure out how to mount the afm so it is hooked up to the boot, nice and tite. I just cut and crushed the old AFM mount and the turbo one fit in there great, looks almost stock. Ok, let me clear some stuff up, It is a turbo engine all turbo compenents, AFM is now hooked up. Everything is hooked up the way it should be just not in its final resting place (i.e. need to tuck wiring away etc). Car still doesn't wanna stay running. .

Ok I did some researchin' and some troubleshootin'. I don't get it, I tried it a bunch, won't idle. Then one time I turn the key and it idles with basically no problems, I mean it was a little low but it was idling pretty strong and for at least 60secs. It still didn't want anything to do with throttle, as soon as I touched it it died. Then I started it like 10 more different times after I fiddled with different things and its back doing the same thing as before, won't stay running. I know all the components put out because like I said in the original post I can manually open the afm door and all is well, turbo even spools great. Could it be vaccum? It doesn't sound like theres a leak but I don't know maybe. Could it be that its just not getting baseline FP from the FPR? What confuses me is why sometimes it will act perfect (minus dying the instant you even look at the throttle). Also if I hit the AFM it kinda rattles like there is something inside, could it still be an AFM prob? I'm so close to getting her on the road!!!! Ugh

So I finally got my l28et to fire. WOOO! . It starts, then dies out a few seconds later. If I manually hold the door on the afm open it will idle like a dream, if I keep pushing it in and give it some throttle it picks up great, but for some reason it won't control the door on its own. Now, the car is still being put back together as I want to make sure everything is in working order before I put it back so the afm is not attached to the rubber boot to the turbo, is that my problem? Does it need to be hooked up directly? I would have thought it would be able to at least idle this way. Until I figure out a way of mounting the afm I can't attach it to the boot(suggestions welcomed ). Or is the afm bad? Let me know what cha thinkin' Thanks

Nice find for 500 bucks. You made sure the engine turns right? Chances are you'll need a new tank, you might be o.k. with the pump and such. Although, maybe not cause the lines or pump could have been the orignal sputtering problem, but thats just conjecture. Your best bet is to replace all of the fuel related stuff, it has been sitting outside for 20years

My turbo swapped '78 project is stalled big time and my last resort on problems is the computer. I need an '82 (or if the other computers connections are the same) turbo computer Thanks Josh

Yeah, thanks for making me retry the fsm. Worked just fine when I downloaded it this time, I think my winzip thing needed to be updated. Well it comes down to this on the car. I've done all I can, I've had a few other people take a look, they've done all they can. No start. I am going to try another computer, If it's not that, this car will be the death of me, If it's not that I will pay somebody who knows more that I do to do it for me. I don't know if there is any local members on here that could help me out but I will pay you whatever you think is fair (within reason. I keep thinking, lots of people have done this swap before, it can't be this hard to make it start. Can it?

With that much hacked away over the wheel, I'd just weld in a little good metal and put flares on the car. Be easier than trying to get it to look original again.

Ive tried! Damn computer won't let me open it! Ugh. I'll give it another shot I guess. Went back to Nissan dealership today, because there is supposedly some old guy there that knows theses cars. Turns out, I don't think he exists and I was again shown the door after they laughed at me for asking about a "Datsun" again.

Cygnusx1 Thanks for the diagram, I think we got the relay wired in so that pretty much takes care of all the "key on" portion of the wiring. We still can't figure out why theres no power in the computer and because of that we can't get any power past the "key on" point. a.k.a. no cranking power. We've got the wires coming out of the fusible links hooked up so there should be power there but nope, nothin'. Ground issue? I wish there was a CT member that could stop by and help out, I know it's tough for you guys to answer all my questions without being there. Too bad I don't live on the west coast, alot more z traffic out there lol.

I've got nothing technical to add but that does look pretty sweet. And look at the lip on that rim, thats bad@$$.

the 4 speed should mate up to the l28et. And without a doubt I would go after the automatic one, running and driving well will solve allllll kinds of problems down the road, plus I know these engines go forever but 244k is alot. 82k and it just getting broken in. Another thing is once you get sick of the dumb automatic its really quite easy to swap in a manual transmission, done and covered many times. Good luck and great find on zxt's. P.S. you should just come up with the money for both

Got back to the car today, for a while it sucked, then we started to get "some" answers . They were sorta negative but at least were figuring stuffs out. Anyways no power on the yellow and white wire ever, so no power in the computer right? At the same time we do have power to the injectors, which work off a similar power wire I think (my brain explodes once or twice everytime I'm working on her so forgive the haziness on some details) as the computer. So there should be power, then we checked grounds and unless we missed one (they do branch alot) all grounds appear to be grounded. Is the computer fried then? If somebody could explain exactly the wires that give the computer power and ground I think that would be very helpful in the process of elimation game were playing. The hayness manual I have has wire diagrams but they arent very productive or accurate. Oh yeah, no green LED light either, figured I'd throw that in too. One last question for this post, Is this the ignition relay/is it hooked up correctly?

Thanks DCZ, your keeping my hopes up that I may be able to one day fire her over. I should be able to get back to my car monday or tuesday and update with any new info.