MYRON

My goal is to have street/low profile tires on some really big rims 20x10 or something close. I like the width and look of the combo used on a viper. I like playing on the street,however when i tub it i would like to be able get some slicks under it and run it at the track every now and then

Al, Go to links on this site and look at Pete Paraskas Z he has very detailed plans on the frame rails. I just cut mine out leaving about 1/2 before the upward curve of the factory units. I welded in the new sheet metal and used 1x3 box steel for the frame rails.

sounds like an ok deal, roller rockers start around 160 and go up. you may want to check on those heads Darth was talking about. also if you do go with them make sure you get them magnafluxed to check for cracks.

that sounds really good, make sure it is out of a z28 or firebird or vette because the valve body in a passenger car or truck will not shift where you want when your at full throttle. the govoner in those will probably shift around 4500 rpm. and you cannot modify the valve body for better performance. If it does happen to be out of a truck you will need to buy a valvebody out of a z/fb/vette they cost new 300.00+ and you also need to buy a spring kit but those are cheap. I think i am close on most of this info but not 100%.....

You are very correct on studying up on that tv cable! I had a 700r4 with a performance shif kit,heavy clutches,corvette servo, 10 vane pump and some other goodies. I blew it out in 350 miles because i didnt know what i was doing! you really have to be willing to spend some money to get one really set up right. a guy down here that builds racing trannys for people all around here and with all the stuff already done to mine he quoted 1600 to do all the "race" stuff to it. If your going to just race around town that th350 will be just fine.

that tranny depends on you rear end gearing. I had a 700r4 and the final drive gear was awesome, 80 mph @ 2300 rpm. the th350 should be around 2800 rpm at the same speed. I may not be exact on that i am going from memory when driving my car. I have the 3.54 diff. gear. I am going back to a th350 because of the problems and cost involved with getting the 700r4 working properly. If you are just going to drive the car around town to race people i think the th350 is fine. If you need a daily driver and plan on driving any long miles get a 700r4. check all the post on the "buy sell trade" on this site. I now that i saw a pair of tricked out aluminum heads in one of the post for 700.00 I think superdan knows the guy.....

TAKMAN, WHATS YOU BUDGET? YOU COULD GET A NICE PAIR OF DART IRON EAGLES WITH 2.05/1.60 THAT FLOW REALLY WELL FOR AROUND 900.00.... I HAVE DARTII WITH 2.05/1.60 215CC INTAKE RUNNERS WITH A BIG CAM THEY ARE AWESOME!

Al, by doing so does this cause a funny foot position for driving at hwy speeds? I ask this because I have aftermarket seats and a cage. I am as far back as i can go without moving the back of the seat up which would cause an uncomfortable driving position for my back. I am thinking that i may have to increase the length of the pedal or moving the carb connection close the the pivot point to get the full action. Myron

I know some of you guys use them, question is how do you get enough pull out of the cable? I have it mounted as far out as i could on the datsun pedal. It just doesnt have enough travel to get wide open on the carb.

Yes, I would go with the 2 seater. You can use all the engine parts from the 2 seater to keep the already restored 4 seater running.

Mike, i have been debating on the rear end situation. now that i see yours i got to have one! can i get the exact dimensions of that unit. I have a race car shop that will do the work, but if got the axle cut and had it ready for him it would save me tons of money! do you have the dimensions? Myron

I did the toyota 4 piston swap on the front and havent done anything to the back as of yet.

Yes, they are more accurate, but after that damn little oil line spings a leak and caused a heck of a mess i changed my mind!

Yeah, like Mike said they are 2 5/8 autometer the tach and speedo are 5" and a little tuff to mount solid. All you have to do on the other 3 is remove the factory guage and cut the metal out of the back of the metal "cup" that holds the guage. I would suggest that you use electric guages instead of mechanical though. I think Mike has a "Technical Article" on this modification but i am not sure... Do you Mike????? Myron

You go SD!! have you got to go romp on it yet? You got me all excited!!.... I wil be putting my engine back in this weekend with the new Turbo 350 and 2500rpm stall converter. I then have to get a new driveshaft made and i will be able to drive it again. Tell us more about yours now that it is back together.. Myron

I am using cast iron heads, DartII with 2.05/1.60's no problem with them. The 2.02/1.60 cast heads are a good heads I would be aware of issues when buying used heads off the net from someone that you do not know. If the heads are cracked what can you do??? some cracks can be fixed, some cannot. You have allready spent a bunch of money on shipping because of the weight. Sending them back may cause a big loss! If the guy will guarantee them and you get them cheap, go for it. Remember your heads give you the power, you might want to spend a little extra money for some new ones..

I have had no overheat problems as of yet. My engine is aprox 475 hp. I do not have a/c on the car and have about 350 miles on it. Mostly cool weather miles. you can see a picture of the unfinished car in "members rides" on this site. I am running 160 degree thermostat with a weiand aluminum water pump. Myron

What are the advantages and disadvantages of these things?

Al, good idea with that header wrap. I used it on mine and it cut the under hood temp WAY down. Without it the wire loom melted and i think the brakes would have problmes as well with the lines so close to the heat source. Owen it is expensive but well worth it. Some people say that it will damage your headers though,(premature breakage and cracks because the wrap keeps all the heat in). You may want to call your mfg. on your headers.

The cheap summit 69.00 jobs should work. mine fit perfectly until i tried to put the plugs in my angle plug heads!

Jeff, I think that you may be asking for trouble if you cut the factory spring! I dont think that a set of aftermarket springs would cost that much.

Yeah, have the transmission blues right now. I cant afford right now to have my already hi-po tranny rebuilt. Improper set up of a 700r4 WILL fry it even if it is a hopped up unit. I did get a deal on a th350 with a fresh rebuild on it with a 2500 rpm stall converter that came out of a 604 hp camaro that has 31" slicks. the car would carry the left front wheel. He went to a powerglide and i got the th350 for 300 bucks. I will let you all know how i like it in a couple of weeks...

Takman57, I was just reading the bottom of you post. 202heads/cam/edelbrock/ and so on. That config is going to get you more than 300hp!! Email me all you specs and i will enter them into my Desktop Dyno 2000 and get you some closer #s myron@netslyder.net

I dont think so, a fuel injected engine is designed for high pressure low volume. the carb is low pressure high volume. I tried running mine through the factory line and I think I was starving my motor. I cannot prove this because my tranny was not set up properly and I was "lugging" the motor way down... It is very inexspensive to run a large diameter aluminum line and once you do you will not have to upgrade later when you get the 450hp "bug"..

Pete, I believe Mike's car has a Ram Air type filter. I have seen some pictures of his car and it looks great. You can order them new out of summit and plumb the air ducting through the factory air filter location.