MYRON

350-400 hp is not very dificult to get from a rebuilt sbc engine. You may want to look into one of the kits from holley or edelbrock. The kits are very reasonably priced and offer great performance for the dollar...

I dont think that you will have any problems.. Look at all the cars at the track that run upen headers... I ran my car for a long time without any exhaust beyond the block hugger headers...My engine is strong, its just the trannys that i keep breaking!

holley blue with regulator from jegs/summit is 85.00 and around 6-7psi. I am using a weiand aluminum water pump

Mike, Did you try leaving all your engine specs the same and just changing the head options to get a range of hp/tq #'s? I am begining to think that i am pushing more hp/tq than the program claims.. I have had 1 diff failure and 3 tranny failures.....

If I had the money right now i would go with a 9". Maybe down the road though.. I have a 76 parts car with an r200. I openend it up and checked it out, plus i welded in the large shaft that holds the 2 planetary gears in place because there is no way that the little hollow roll pin will hold... I plan on taking it for a "spin" tonight to try it out......

Mike, I removed the power valve and jetted my carb with 76's on all 4 corners.. If you have a power valve in the carb then the jets need to be aprox 8#'s smaller on the primarys.. I also had to completely remove the 4 air bleeds to get it to lean out at an idle, otherwise it would smoke like a diesel and smell worse!

KICK *** ! Where did it build all that torque? Do you have a Desktop Dyno program? If it would not be too much trouble can you get me as much as you know about your motor? I am testing the accuracy of the program based on actual dyno pulls from all my friends engines...

After complaining how my car was leaving the staging zone as a 1 wheel wonder at the track.. Jason D "NOSZCAR" told me the the roll pin that held the shaft for the planetary gears was sheered and that putting a solid pin would fix it. I was driving through town (and i sure am glad i was just creeping along) the rear axle almost locked up solid. I was able to idle home with it jerking and clunking and grinding and banging and shuddering!!! 10 miles worth After tearing it down, i discoverd that Jason was right on the money. The roll pin had sheered allowing the shaft that holds the planetary gears in place to walk back and fourth and the ends of it were getting chewed off by the ring and pinion gears.. the large shaft (about the diameter of your thumb)was also broke in half where the roll pin passes through it... I am so lucky that it didnt happen when i was "hauling the mail"

Mike, what model carb do you have?.... When you say jet the carb down, are you making this decision based on the car running "fat" at an idle? or are you getting choked with fumes at higher rpm? It took months but i finally got my carb tuned where i like it and talk about a difference in the way she ran (strong enought to bust the diff) as for your fuel problem i think i mentioned vaper lock a while back, but how hot does the pump get? If I was you i would go back to the holley blue and the regulator that it come with and do away with the return line... My pump is mounted in the stock location with 1/2 line and no return and the power is straight through a 20 amp switch and it doesnt vary 1/2 a pound..

I just read an article in a VERY old hot rod mag from the early 70's. This guy mounted a 305ci in the *** end of a porsche 911. he used the stock tranny and it ran 10.40s with a low tech 305!

STAN, what converter were you running with that config?

I have 2 flowmasters in the stock location and it sounds great, but it does have a resonance problem..

GO TURBINE!! just kidding. think about it Spence you are already being different by putting a V8 in a Z. The space frame is to acomadate the power of a 383 stroker and with a tube chassis your suspension posibilities are endless.... I would stick with the v8 mainly because they can crank out 400+ hp and still be reliable. you would be hard pressed to to that with the L series engine... Think about the NASTY suspension you can stick under the car... HOW ABOUT A PIKES PEAK RUN!!!!!!!

Hey guys, you an still mount the unit infront of and facing you engine. you would have to re-plumb your intake and output of the unit to your carb or f/i... If you take the pully and re-rout the belt you can change the direction that the supercharger turns... this would obviously have to be done with a serpentine belt conviguration..

Takman, BTW my dad is a distributor for all types of automotive service equipment if you are looking fo a deal on anything let me know.. he sometimes gets screaming deals on repo's of lifts, both 2 and 4 post, wheel balancers, tire changers, brake lathes, anything that you see in a automotive shop he has or can get at great prices.. i think he has a couple of used 2 post lifts right now the he wants to move... let me know if you need anything!

Takman, lots of the high end engine builders also coat the top of the pistons with a highly reflective/gold like coating to reflect heat away from the piston. this is used in many cases to keep the heat down when you spray the car with NOS.. I do not know what it is called but i have a buddy that spent the money to have it done... check into it!

I have around 12-15 grand in mine. see members rides. motor is aprox 475hp and the car hauls booty!!

have you guys seen the article in the latest chevy high performace mag? I has a great article about turbos/superchargers/nitrous. It was very informative for me.. check it out! Hey, can you turn the thing around(so it faces the engine) and route the belt so it still turns it the correct way?

SpencZ, What about a gear reduction on an electric motor? have it funcion like a servo in a model airplane. think of how your rack and pinion works on the steering box in your zcar. I know that a servo the size of a half dollar can produce over 48oz of torque. I dont remember if you were one of the guys into remote controlled hobbies, if you can take a close look at how an R/C system works. It may give you some more ideas. I know that with the new transmiters you can change the throw,direction,and change the exponential rate of the servo at the touch of a button...check it out! Futaba is the name of the transmiters that i used to use all the time...

I hear that the dynamat is really good stuff. I used duplicolor truck bed coating then a layer or 3/8 dense insulation. It seems to work pretty good but the flowmaster's resonate very bad and i cant muffle that out...

So your are you going to do it? what is the plan man!

another problem with metalic paint is that if your pressure out of the gun is not exact and your distance between the gun and the car when you are sprayng is not the same, the metal flakes will either lay down or stay vertical off the painted surface causing the color to look different. there is not much you can do about it at this point other that re-painting the car... Metalic paints are the most dificult to put on.. My first paint job was metalic and you can see places that look darker than the rest of the car...

Corzette, I have a custom holly carb and the blue pump. I had all the exact same problems you are having. Exactly what model holley do you have? First you need to cut back on your fuel pressure to a little over 6 psi. check your float level. then IF you have a carb with a power valve take it out and plug it. My car did the same stuff for a while, it was running way to rich from idle all the way up. and when you would goose it it would go silent like you turned off the ignition then blast to life.... here is my config 355 ci with big heads and cam,solid roller. holly hp4150 carb 750 body with and 850 base plate. mechanical secondaries,no choke,holly blue pump...see pics in members rides... it ran rich and would hesitate really bad. here is how i got it to run right.. change the air bleeds for idle remove power valve and plug it re jet the carb with 76's at 4 corners. the engine runs different like night and day!

yes they do, MOST of the time in my case. If i am at a dead stop and brake torque the car it will spin both and haul A$$. but some times if i am already moving and drop the hammer it spins 1 tire.. Jason D (NOSZCAR) said it is because the roll pin is broken. I plan on rebuilding a spare r200 that i have and putting a solid roll pin in it.

I had tons of problems with mine! end result is i had to jack the motor up 1.5 inches for clearance. I have DartII's with angle plugs I had to get hearders with the 2 inside tubes reversed. I can send you some close up pics monday if you want. email me... you can also see a little in the members rides section.. I used header wrap to keep the heat off the wire looms and starter. The stuff works like a champ, but i have heard that they may cause the headers to crack over a long period of time. Myron