MYRON

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How about a motor plate? This seems like an easy solution and very easy to position your engine exactly where you want with no header clearance problems. Just hack off the factory datsun "horns", weld some angle iron or some steel plates to the 2 exposed sides of the frame rails, notch the motor plate acordingly and the weld some vertical tabs on the frame rails and drill a hole through the two plates...

I was told the chain had something to do with static electricity. To prep my garage first used the weed blower to blow all the dust out and then i wetted everthing down with the hose. I found a place that will professionaly "cut and buff" the car for 100.00 here in Houston, sounds cheap to me, my arm is getting REAL tired!

It was less than 20 bucks at hi-lo O'riley auto parts.

I second the motion on watching that clearcoat!!! I am still color sanding mine. I put it on very thick though 1/2 gallon! Some places were rougher than others so i started with 1000 grit and then 1500 using a foam pad for backing. Then I used a very fine 3m compound and then glazing compound. THIS MAY SOUND STRANGE when you go to paint your car go buy a steel chain and lay it in a big hoop around the car on the floor... I have heard that when you do this the chain some how will draw the dust and particles away from the car and keeping you paint job debris free..

I am using 16x8 weld draglites with 4.5" offset,using 205/50/zr yokohama 520's... see members rides......Myron

Corzette, I have heard of a z with an a solid axle from an old mail carrier jeep. Look in the "im tellin ya" section.. I have head about this Z from several people in the hot hod community and they all say it runs in the 9's in th 1/4 mile...

I think i will

Takman, Just let me know when.....

This will help all you guys going with a G.M. tranny and an Autometer speedo... After much searching I found the perfect cable to mate the two together... It is made by "Pioneer Inc. Automotive Products" it is part # CA-3002 it is the perfect length to hook up your G.M. tranny..

Mike, I've thought about an aluminum block, but the 3000.00 wasnt worth the 100lbs of weight. 100 lbs is worth about a 1/10th of a second in the 1/4 mile...

Takman, I cut the factory hangers out of mine. You may also have to cut out or beat in the area where the servo cap and the fluid lines go. My engine sits so far back and tight in the tunnel there was no way that you could get the coolant lines attached without cutting an access hole or dropping the tranny.

Think of it like this. An ATV (all terrain vehicle) with an automatic transmissoin shifts like this. As you press on the shift lever the movement of the lever first opens the clutch then changes the gear and then as you let off the lever it closes the clutch. It is all in one quick action with one foot. I know that this can be done.. how about an electronic trigger on your shift lever/steering wheel that triggers the celenoid that controlls the slave cylinder.. you will still use your shift lever like normal but you will be cutting out your clutch pedal and all its attachments... how about those companys that do conversions on vehicles for people with disabilities

Spence, Just idea here. There are tons of new types of trannys on the market now like the automatics in porsches that you can shift like a stick. How about a clutch pedal that is operated with one of your hands. Think about the rally cars that have the shifter mechanism that is two paddles near the steering column that you just hit one side or the other for up-down shifts.. you could maybe fashion a celenoid and a relief valve to your clutch slave and have a switch for smooth or firm shifts (depending how fast the celenoid controlled valve lets fluid out of the slave cylinder. Maybe i am crazy but your hands are much more precise that your foot... Just a HIGH TECH thought...

I have heard a rumor that many of the emmissions test are going away. My father is in the automotive service eguipment business(he is a distributor of lifts,tire changers,wheel balancers,engine analizers, sniffers,dynos,and he even owns some patents on some VERY high end alignment systems)and some of the talk he is hearing form his customers and vendors is that less than 18% of the vehicles on the road have potential to be an "environmental hazard" and the cost to equip an inspection station is way to high and not fair to the small business owner to force him to buy this equipment just to do inspections.. He said that there is lots of politics in this deal and dont be supprised if they start to fade away... BTW he had a 84 nissan pickup with all the emmission removed it 300,000 miles on it and the carb needed to be rebuilt AND IT PASSED THE SNIFFER TEST

Stan, How did that thing feel coming out of the hole? There is a kid down here that wants to run me but he is sprayng a 100 shot to it... My car is aprox 475 hp and running 2500 rpm stall on 16x8 205/50zr street tires. I am very traction deficient coming out of the hole.

John, I run pump gas in mine and have aprox 10.5-1 c.r. and the car runs great... I have a buddy that tried running race gas in his race car and it killed the performance because(he claimes) is because his motor is a low 11.0 compression...

check out Autopower if you are looking for a bolt in. Also check www.ioportracing.com or i/oportracing.com.. I cant remember which, but check them out....

I could write a book with all of the mistakes that i have learned from! The way i see it they just meake the next project that much better!..... I kept on clear coating (1/2 gallon worth) after i saw my runs. After I finished the car and it was dry enough to move outside I let it sit out in the sun and BAKE, 5 days worth of Texas sun is enough to bake anything. I then hit the runs with 1000 grit then 1500 grit and they were actualy very easy to get out. I have to do some finish work with the 1500 grit and then i have some 3m finishing compund and wax to put the deep shine on it.... One thing i did a little different is I used Dupli-Color truck bed coating on the bottom part of the car where the body line starts to curve under... That stuff is thick and very tough and it actually turned out really good. you cant even tell unless you areright up on it...

I hear you! Those runs sneak up on you. One pass and everthing looks great and then the next time you come around there is a huge run!. I had 3 of them, but they seemed very easy to cut out. How long did you wait before trying to sand them out?

Mike, looks great! You must have spent a ton of time getting the stripes taped off! and painting it gloss black takes big balls I have some flaws that showed up that I missed when i was doing the body work. I may go back later and fix them but i plan on cutting it and buffing out the clear coat before i decide what to do.. What brand and type of paint did you use? I used single stage ppg duracryl and 2 coats, both wet sanded down with 1000 grit and now i am cutting the 1/2 gallon of clear coat that I put on it down with 1200 grit and rubbing compund... It is getting very slick, but no DEEP shine yet... I have some 3m high dollar stuff coming for the wax

yes, it pulled pretty hard before with a 700r4 and stock converter, but i messed it up and coudlnt afford to get it fixed... that is why i went with the th350 and stall converter....

Jack, this converter is a brand new B&M 2500 rpm stall. I messed up the snout and had to get a new one put on. I had the most popular race shop in town cut it open put in a new snout and anti-ballooning plate in and they also did something to the vanes, but i cant remember what. I can hear a swooshing sound (like alot of fluid being forced through a small hole) when i start off and just drive easy on it.

I still dont think that I follow. When i stomp the gas my engine jumps to 4000 rpm and starts accellerating. I feels like it is not pulling as hard as it should. By the time it does feel "right" i am way beyond the power curve.. With the 700r4 and stock converter you felt firmly planted in the seat as long as i was in the gas. with the th350 it feels like i am waisting the 1500-4000 rpm power band.. maybe I am coo-coo. Someone with a big stall please tell me how this thing is supposed to feel.

I started this question in the brakes suspension and chassis so i will re-post it over here... I think I have the wrong converter, here is what it does and tell me what you guys think... Mike mentioned that it is for a heavy car. how much performance can i get going to more of a stock converter? When I brake torgue the car it comes up to 2700 rpm and then starts to spin and push the locked up front tires. when I release the brakes, it jumps to 4000 rpm and stays there until the car "catches up".... When i am just cruising in any gear and punch it, it jumps to 4000 rpm and stays there until the car "catches up" The converter is a B&M 10" that is supposed to be a 2500 rpm stall. I had it cut open and an anti-balooning plate added and some work done to the vanes and snout. Is this a 2500 rpm stall or a 4000 stall? and should i go back to a stock converter?.