MYRON

I like the idea of the smaller diameter torque converter and less rotational weight, but I think i need to change it to a stock converter...

Thanks for the info guys, I think i will sell that high stall torque converter. I think that i am waisting tons of torgue. Here is what this thing does and tell me what you think... Brake torquing= @ 2700rpm it starts to spin and it pushes the car. As soon as i let off the brake it instantly jumps to 4000 rpm and then starts pulling real hard. Cruizing= in ANY gear and I drop the hammer it jumps to 4000 rpm and then starts pulling.... The car felt a lot faster with the 700r4 and a stock converter...

corZette, Myron Here. I have the DartII heads and they are great performers, BUT be carefull when go to put them in your Z car. Dont buy the angle plug units. I did and I had to get different street rod headers and move the engine straight up about 1.5 inches for the whole mess to have clearance. I know 1.5 inches doesnt sound like much but the end result can be seen in members rides. Doing so also doesnt help the center of gravity of the car, it feels a little top heavy...

I cant remember what your set up is like.. Do you have a fuel cell or a stock tank? If it is stock, maybe you have some blockage in the tank. you are not trying to get fuel for the v8 throught the factory lines are you? Maybe you are experiencing vapor lock. You dont have your lines too close to any exhaust? where is your pump located. What about your floats sticking open? Is the pump sucking air from somewhere? Did your fuel line get damaged from driving or maybe a floorjack slipping and crushing the line? Last i can think of is the pump sucking your fuel line closed on the inlet side?...I have seen this happen on a cooling system but never on a fuel system but you never know... just a few ideas

What is the highest gear ration available in a r200? and what year car should one look for to get the taller gears?

SoCal, My car will burn both tires when hammered comming out of the hole. I will brake torque the car to get them both locked up and then let out of the brakes, it squats hard and drifts the *** end to the right but it is very manageable. I have a 77Z R200 open diff. Sometimes it will only spin one tire if i am already going and roll on the power.

Mike, I have a Holly Blue and regulator they come as a set for 84.99 out of Summit. I have all 1/2 line from the tank to the regulator then #6 an to the carb. See pics in members rides. I have a hp4150 custom carb 750body/850base. I am running 7.5psi and the pump works like a champ. I had a mallory gp40 that would not suck fuel out of a coffee can from 6 inches away! I have a budy that has ONE these holly's running a 603 hp and a 150 shot of the gas and he doesnt have any problems...

MINE IS AT 36 AT 3000RPM... RUNS LIKE A CHAMP

sound like it is time for a 9" or a 12 bolt!

Stan, Glad you finally made it to this site! Myron

Big Ed, I cant tell you what a stock turbo Z would do in the 8th. I would guess somewhere around 12sec. I havent run mine in the 8th yet, but I hang out with a bunch of racers and we are quessing mid 7 sec. and low 11's in the 1/4....

I used the MSD 6al box and the MSD pro billet distributor. I am very happy with the set up and with the ease of the plug in modules it works well for me. The distributor is of the highest quality that i have seen. It is a little heavy because of the very solid construction. When we installed this setup there was a very noticeable difference in how fast the engine would rev, I mean a BIG difference...

About the u-joints... I have been hammering may car for a while and have had no problem. Am I correct in saying the the r200 and stock axles are strong enough for use with big horsepower as long as you are not running slicks? I have 205/50/16z yokohama's and the car pulls hard.. Locutus has ridden in it when i have dogged it out a few times and i havent noticed any problems....

I agree with John on this one. When braking all the oil that is pumped to the top side of your motor may be flowing heavy to the # 1 and 2 cylders and a large volume of oil is running down the valve guides... Do a compression test, if it is good the it is positively the guides... Pull your heads and get them re-worked or replaced and you should be ok...

Hey guys, Make that dash a full wrap around with room for the entertainment console and lots of other guages and switches and gizmos and widgets and doo-dad things and stuff!! I made an attempt at making a big console for all of the above but it looked like crap!

Mike what starter are you using? I know that a starter that gets a too hot will drag because of the tolerances are too tight. I have a factory starter and it is so close to the header flange that i had to grind the flange flat on one the side so i could get 1/16th of clearance for the little "nipple" that sticks off the back of the GM starter. My car starts fine all the time. I have about 600 miles of start/stop/go/stop/fix/start/go/race/stop /start and so on. I am using header wrap and you can actually grab the header after e the ingine is running, you obviously do not want to leave it there for long,but you do not have to worry about severe burns. It is expensive and i know that you do not want to hide the fine looking ceramic coated headers. Maybe if you wrap the bottom portion that is close to the starter... I bet this will solve your problem.... Myron

Welcome Scottie, Is yours the v6 that runs 10's.? I think that i have seen pictures from James Thagards turbo site. If so have you dyno'ed the motor and what does it weigh with the 6 in it? Myron

Zedskid, Where exactly can one see a picture of your car?

Owen, what muffler are you using and what size inlets does it have. Are you using a Borla Boomer of some type? and are you going for the sleeper look. Basically are you trying to bait some imports into a race/ trap!! Sneaky One!!

I must be the only lucky one. I am using a stock radiator with a 475+ hp motor and I cruized town & raced some people and ran through a full tank of gas and i never jumped above 180 degrees! I am using a weiand water pump and a 160 thermostat... The vehicle does NOT have a/c to restrict flow through the radiator... I am also using a 16" electric fan....

Mine is pretty much the same, I have the pipes coming straight back and then making the "S" and into 2 flomasters. I used to have the hooker tuned flows but the car sounded too much like a 6 cyl... When I went to the less restrictive flowmasters I dropped 8 degrees in operating temp as well.

Same here, except i have #6 after the regulator... I welded a sump in the tank.

Takman, You may also have crank damage. Take it to your local engine house and have it redone. They will tell you if the crank has to be turned. It is possible to turn the crank a few thousandths and be ok, but some time they will have to turn it down more and that would not be good. I suggest that you bore it .030 and put a good set of flat top pistons... The machine shop can also check out your heads for cracks and warpage. After they check out the block for damage you can supply them parts for the rebuild for cheaper than they charge for the parts.

I didnt like the way my hooker "tuned flows" sounded so i drove the car to the muffler shop and had 2 flowmasters put on...Car sounds 100% better and it also runs 8 degrees cooler! I guess the hookers had too much back pressure... I also drove the car all weekend and ran a full tank of gas out of it cruizing and racing through town... Stock radiator and i had NO probles with temp! I do not have an a/c to restrict the flow through the radiator. When I do go to put ac in the car i may have a problem, but for now I am in good shape!

Speed, I have had many problems with the header/angle plug head combo. When I originally installed the motor I had the summit block hugger headers (69.99). I had the motor sitting very low in the car and was very happy with all the clearances, the headers fit perfectly with room to spare between the frame rails and the starter and steering rod...that was until i tried to put plugs in it. As it turns out there was no way that i would be able to get that combo to work, I tried short plugs,dimpleing the header to no avail and I was not about to scrap the 1000.00 dollar heads! So i went to the local custom street rod shop and told the guy my problem. He said easy fix, just buy the reversed tube block huggers for 120.00. These headers have the two inside cylinders closest to the block where the summit was just opposite with the two inside tubes farthest away from the block. now the problem is lack of clearance between the steering arm and the frame rails and starter! Long story longer..I had to make new motor mounts and raise the engine about 2 inches straight up. Clearance is tight and i had to use header wrap to keep the headers from melting the factory wiring loom. If you would like send me your email and i will send a few close up pics. of the clearance... Hope this helps.... what humor?? Myron