MYRON

Thanks, I am on my way to do so tonight!

Well it is all back together and driving now! I am having a little trouble warming up to the stall converter. The car doesnt feel as fast as it was with the 700r4. The 700 would shift harder and just felt like the car was "pulling" better..... As it sits now when i am driving in any gear and deck it, it jumps to 4000 rpm. Maybe it is just me and i will just have to get used to the stall, i have never owned one so it is all new to me.... what do you guys think?

KAMANARI, The mounting holes on the tailshaft of the 700r4 are about 1.5 inches further back than the ones on the th350 I just got a steel plate that was about 3"x3" and drilled the new holes out. Myron

To play it safe i would buy the the aftermarket wiring kit out of summit or jegs that is for the installation of the 700 in cars that were not origanally equiped with one... also make sure that you buy the correct throttle/tv cable bracket that sets the geometry correct if using a holley carb. Also adjust the tv cable from loose and gradually snug it up in very small incriments... Maybe even take it to a tranny shop and have them adjust it and make sure the lockup switch is functioning...

OK HERE IT IS.... The first th350 in my car got ruined by a flood....= 400.00 the second 700r4 got ruined by me "home simpson" not setting the tv cable/linkage and the lock up properly.....450.00 the third th350 didnt get the converter seated properly =350.00 for the tranny and converter.... now the rebuild for the th350 and setting it up to hold 700hp is costing me 500.00!!! I sure hope this comes to an end soon or i will be sleeping in the car under a bridge or something!!! @#^#%^&*$^(& HOMER

Yeah, I got it tweaked out now. i get full throttle. Now i just have to get a tranny installed properly and i will be ok!

TOO MUCH MONEY!.... The original turbo 350 that i was going to use got ruined in the flood that was around 400.00. Then there was the 700r4 that my dad called in a few favors and got it for me for 450.00. Now there is the new turbo 350 and the b&m converter that I managed to fry. I bought it from a friend that had it in his 70 camaro 604hp & tubbed, I was with him every time he raced and there was never a problem. I bought it for 350.00. Now to get it fixed i have to get the torque converter cut open and checked out and a new snout put on it(i buggered up the tip) for 125.00 and to get the tranny rebuilt 125.00 for the bench job and 150.00 for the rebuild kit. I just hope that the pump from the water-logged original tranny is salvageable. Not to mention the Mobile1 synthetic fluid that is 5.00 per quart! Homer Simpson

Thanks John, Yes I am a persistant sob. If I wasnt i would have never attempted such an undertaking! I was lucky enough to get one good run out of it though. As i understand it if the converter is not properly seated it starts to fry as soon as the engine turns over,(mine did) it ate a huge gouge out of the stater so i never really had any pump pressure to really feel the hard shift and stall converter working properly. Tranny shop says he might be able to get it to me by this weekend. I sure hope he does! Myron

CONGRATS! Glad to hear you got it fired up again. I got mine fired up this weekend as well. I unfortunately only got to drive it a short distance before it started not shifting and then loosing gears. "DOH" call me Homer Simpson. I didnt have the torgue converter seated properly, needless to say it is all back apart and the tranny is getting redone this week. Hopefully I will have it driving this coming weekend.

THANKS, I WILL CALL JCR NEXT PAYDAY!..DO YOU KNOW WHAT THE SHIPPING CHARGE IS

Mine are 16x8 with 205/50-16's Z rated.. No clearance problems

I took a bunch of pictures of my interior last night. as soon as i get them loaded into the pc I will send them to SuperDan to post to the members rides of this site.

I know exactly how you feel! I had to re-do and fix all the wiring in my headlight high-beam and turn signals. I also (like a bonehead) managed to melt the big wiring cluster that sits against the trans tunnel when i was welding underneath the car!

I just looked at the forza seat on the web and it looks like it is shorter and the bottom of the seat may be a little thinner than the targa rs that I have. Another thing to consider is if you have a cage. My car does and I cant lay the seats back very far at all. I cant tell if the forza can be leaned back so that may be a plus if it cannot be leaned back.

JuJu, do you want to sell you fiberglass hood and fenders? Is you hood the cowl induction from jc whitney? Myron

I dont know of anyone that has done that swap, but i have seen a brief post on this site about it. Keep up posted if you find some info on one. I would like to see a v8 in a newer Z (90 or up)... keep us posted Myron

It sounds like you are looking at the northstar system v8. It is around 300 horse power and they do run strong. I do not know if it alternates firing in the cylinders to save gas, but i do know that it does alternate firing in order to keep it cool in the event of coolant loss wether it be from a hose or belt failure. It is a "high tech" engine and may prove to be more trouble then it is worth trying to make it work in a Zcar....

Get some rubber on there SD and you will notice a night and day difference in performance! My first few races were with the factory tires like yours. The yoko's made a huge difference in the last few races. I think those are the ones that blew my tranny with all the extra traction. If I can get my dads crane this weekend i will have mine back on the road by Monday!... I will be sure to let everyone know how the th350 and 2500rpm stall work out.... Myron

Dan, I am using the corbeau targa rs. They are comfortable and look good, BUT way to big for the z car. I had to cut the factory mounts out and modify the seat mounts in order to get them to fit. I am 5'10" 180, and with a cage in the car the seats are all the way back for me. They would be ok for a person smaller than myself. They are also very wide and up against the door panel when i close the door. Hope this helps. Myron

When are we going to see some post in the "i'm tellin ya" section of this site SD???? What tires are you using on your car? Mine to is around the 475HP mark. With the improperly installed 700r4 my tires would spin all the way through 1st gear 1/2 way through 2nd and 3rd would get a NASTY scratch! The factory tires/wheel combo is about useless for this kind of power. Mine are yokohama 205/50-16's and do OK. for now. Myron

That is a cool site, Can we get it posted to the links on this site? What about it SD

SD, Your back! I was beginning to worry... I did the toyota 4 piston swap as well and mine feel very solid. Power brakes do not like big cams because the vaccume is not the same. I bought a vaccume reserve can from Summit. It makes them feel a little "heavy" but i do have full stopping/lockup power when i stand on them. It sounds like you have a big cam causing lack of vaccume or your booster is going bad. Have you tried to bleed them again? also check to see if your brake line is too close to your header causing the fluid to boil. HOW DOES IT RUN??????????????

If you look close at the bolts on the driveshaft you will see that the head of the bolt has a flat side that will not let the bolt turn when you are loosening the nuts on the other side. Myron

Rob, It is mounted exactly where the factory ball joint was. I drilled it out and fitted the lokar cable to it. It is just a little shy of full throttle. I will try adjusting the throttle stop this weekend, to get it working.

Owen, I took a slightly different approach. I made a steel strap that is about 4" wide that follows the contour of the floorboard on the inside of the car. After this strap levels out and goes a few inches along the bottom of the floor pan it is cut off and a hole is drilled through it and a piece of angle iron on the under carriage. think of an upside down "U" with a angle iron bolted to the open side with the transmission mounted in the middle. It is a very simple and somewhat crude modification but it works fine and i can change mounting locations by simply drilling 2 new holes. I also had to cut the factory mounts out in order to get my 700r4 and engine to sit almost against the fire wall.