MYRON

Owen, yes you can use braided lines, but bending the aluminum tube is not hard to do and it will cost WAY less. Braided line is around 4.00 per foot. you can buy a 20 foot line of 1/2 for around 20 bucks, you do the math and you will see the light!. Remember that a fuel system in a carburated vehicle is only around a 5psi to 15psi max pressure. the average is 7-9 psi. Buy the aluminum line and then buy all the a/n fittings to make your system Bullet Proof. One thing that you can also do that i think looks pretty cool is use the left over aluminum line to run you vaccume lines for your brakes and also use it for a wire loom!...I think the aluminum tubes look better than hose that has the braided sleeve over the top of it, plus it is alot easier to keep cleen!!

Mine is not quite so fancy, and it is in the process of getting re-worked. As soon as the new floorpan is installed it go a little something like this. Summit sump welded into the stock tank with stainless lines and A/N fittings #6 to a holley blue pump that is mounted in the factory location, 1/2 aluminum line is run to the front of the car on the outside of the frame rail to a Holly regulator mounted in the location where the battery used to go. From there to the carb using braided steel lines and #6 AN fittings there will be a filter and a pressure guage mounted in line in the proper locations, but i havnt picked them out as of yet. The carb is a PRC(Precision Racing Components) hp5140 holly 750 cfm body with a 850 base plate and other modifications. the carb has been coated with some sort of heat resistant cool looking stuff and is jetted with 74 and 82 jets. I have been changing these around and will change them again after i re-plumb the fuel system and install the turbo 350 tranny.. what are you guys using for a throttle bracket? Mine is a RIG, a piece of all thread bent to match up and not professionaly mounted to the datsun pedal (hose clamp) any help in this department would be greatly appreciated!

Mike, That trans medic does work pretty good. It is a synthetic lube (regular trans fluid is not a good lubricant) You may try tightening up the TV (kickdown)cable. This cable controlls the firmness of the shifts and also what point the trans shifts down into a lower gear in relation to throttle position and engine vaccume. Move the cable in VERY SMALL incriments to get it adjusted just the way you like.. Myron

Lets keep it civil guys, there is no need to try to out-do one another. We are here to help each other out. Pete,Mike i hope i am not stepping on your toes here. As for the fan issue here. I have a 475 hp sbc and a 16" autozone special electric unit. I do not know the flow #'s on this fan but it draws max 13 amps. I have 350 miles on the car and have had NO (0) problems with cooling. I am using the factory datsun radiator, and the car has NO air conditioner parts

My personal welder is just a little 110 wire feed. My neighbor is going to let me use his big nasty proffesional grade mig that runs on 220 up to 480 and will feed some really thick wire, he has a full bottle of argon and it is ready to rumble. I just have to go load it on a trailor and drag it over to my house. I have been filling in all of the little holes in the engine compartment and plan on doing the floorboard this weekend.

Dan, As far as the nonlockup deal, a performance shop quoted me 1200 yesterday for rebuilding my tranny and what they do is "block off" the lock-up converter portion of the valve body. If you are looking for a performance 700r4 make sure that you get a valve body from a z28/firebird/corvette. a corvette servo,13 vane pump,spring kit and a performance govener. The shop i talked to does raelly high end trannys and he guarenteed his to be awsome. he also said that you cannot modify a valve body from other vehicles (trucks,passanger cars) to work like the Z28/firebird. My tranny has all the performance stuff in it already except the valve body. That is 300 new from a dealership. I just cant afford 300 for a valve body and another 1200 on top of that to get my 700r4 working properly... I scrounged a th350 with a fresh B&M rebuild and 2500rpm stall that was in a 604 hp/31" slicks car and it worked flawlessly.. 300.00

Hey guys, I pulled my motor and tranny yesterday and totally stripped the paint out of the engine compartment. Question is would I be wise to weld all the seams that are spot welded? It seem that this would be good for stiffening up the chassis but may cause some warping. I also plan on re-routing the wiring harnes to the outside of the engine compartment to keep it away from the exhaust.. What do you think? Myron

Dan, At least you got a little taste of how it would run! I know the first time i drove my car it scared the crap out of me too. i am in the same boat as you with the 700r4 I pulled mine this weekend and it is going in for a rebuild and i think i am going to go for a non-lockup system as well just because i dont want the hassle of jacking with the wires and such for the lockup converter. I will let you know what I find out. What carb are you going to run?

Spence I got a huge list of salvage yards from my neighbor its about 200-300 numbers get me a fax # so i can send it to you

Correct me if i am wrong here. Isnt the r200 diff. strong enough to hold around 500 hp. I have heard that the biggest problem is the ujounts on each end of the half shaft binding up and breaking. I thought that i destroyed my diff. after launching really hard but it turned out to be busted mount and strap causing the nose of the diff to hit the e-brake mounts... Desktop Dyno claims my engine to be between 464-513 hp and over 450lbs of torque. I have HAMMERED it a bunch and havent heard any complaints fron the diff and ujoints... just the mounts I did manage to fry my tranny. AM I AN ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN BY LEAVING THE COMPLETELY STOCK REAR END IN THIS THING????

Sumo, I have the summit brand, they are not bad for the money, However you cannot use them with angle plug heads. The spark plugs will hit the tubes. I had to pull the summit brand and buy a reversed tube street rod header (125.00)to clear my angle plug heads. I tried to dimple them for clearance but it was not enough. they fit perfectly in the car though, i wish i could have used them. Myron

As it sits right now the passenger floor pan is sitting in my garbage can, along with the rusted out frame rail. It appears that the original owner drove the car over some parking bricks or something. the passenger frame rail was heavily damaged/rusted out. I am pulling the engine and tranny this weekend and will be repainting everything and building some sort of sheet metal heat shield for the wiring harness. I have a chassis shop guy that wants to trade some labor for my dads old 9" lathe. SO hopefully i will het that done very soon... Now that i got a taste of how fast it really is i am going nuts to get it back on the road!!

Mike, What would be the best set up for me? My engine sits 1/2 inch off the firewall, but it sits a little high (i had to for angle plug heads/headers to clear stearing rod). I like street cruizing/racing and some cornering but nothing major. I will run it a few times in the 1/8-1/4 mile just to see my actual times. I already put in the eurathane steering rack bushings and the aluminum cup and plastic ball bushing(i cant remember what it is called). I have 16x8 and 205/50 z rated rubber. I know that i need struts and springs and a strut tower brace. My hood is almost touching the insides of the fenders, I guess this is from the prolonged weight of the v8 causing the unibody to sag... the car feels topheavy give me some brands and part numbers and i will order them.. I think i will make the strut tower brace my self though

Shannon, I think that an R200 datsun diff. is pretty damn tuff, its the ujounts and half shafts that may give you the most of your problems. If your planning on spraying your 500+ hp motor with a big shot I strongly suggest the you go with a solid rear axle. With that king of HP any racetrack will ask you to leave after your first pass with the independent rear end. And you better put in a good cage as well Myron

That hood only looks good primered and on an unfinished car, I got it a little crooked so its not worthy of a hopped up z car. It just keeps the crap off my engine for now!

That car would be a blast on the road out to Snowqualmie Falls (I know i didnt spell that right, but i have been all over the state) Taking the mountain bikes up a ski lift and holding on for your life coming down is a blast!!!!

There is shop here in Conroe that does really nice work and his cars go straight I think the average price for fab work is around 35.00 per hour. When i had him look at my car i think we came up with 3500 including parts.... Where are you located??

I dont know if any of you have tried this at home, but i did.. Picture the front of your z car is stripped (no engine tranny hood or fenders) we all know 2 fenders and a hood dont weigh that much. Go to the front of your car and lift above one of the front tires. I lifted the front left tire off the groung 5 inches then my brother went to the back wheel well and lifted that wheel came off the ground! they dont weigh much at all!!

I think that you are going to have your hands full with the everday maintanence of a high performance z car,add in 2 carbs (900cfm)that sit up above the hood is going to be a pain in the rear getting them synced and getting the linkage set up. The extra power gain may not be worth it. Especially if you throw a very inexpensive 50-75 shot of the juice to it.... I do not know if you have seen my hood (5" harwood cowl) it looks ok but you cant see around it and i am already planning on going back to a stock hood.

Dan, Make sure that whatever type of cage you go with that the tubes are SEAMLESS d.o.m. (drawn over mandrel) from what I understand seamed pipe cannot be certified for much of anything. I am not 100% sure about this but i dont think that i am too far off base.... What do you think guys?????????

Back up Ron, My already is a solid roller! I David is the one having the tough time with a couple of studs. I was told that a stud girdle isnt necessary unless you were planing on turning you motor above 6500rpm. Is this not true?? I do not know.... Any Engine experts want to jump in here?

Mike tell me about this 6.8 car. Do you know what hp/ driveline mods he had. The reason i ask is that my buddys 30,000.00 camaro dynoed 604hp and he runs 6.7-6.8 and he thinks his is the **** .. Will i be able to keep up with him with my 475-500 hp and a lighter car with street tires? I know it wont come out of the hole like his but he only goes through the traps at 99 mph. If Biondo's running 103 with a stick, I think i can hang, what to you think?

Since you didnt have to cut your hood, i would go sleeper (like the low rumble of the exhaust wont give it away) to anyone that knows the slightest thing about a hot rod!! I am trying to get a stock hood and a remote air cleaner to go back to the sleeper look. I would like to have one of those HUGE Borla Boomer Mufflers hanging out the back just to make the kids think that i am another "import!@$%$#^%" performance guys, but they dont make one with a large enough inlet... I do not want to choke 475 hp for a sleeper look....

I stole mine!! DartII 2.05/1.60 Oversized double springs rated up to 200 seat lb and up to a .700 lift cam..Comp Cams guide plates springs and 7/16 studs, 5 angle valve job. ported and matched to a Brodix HV1 Pro Bracket intake that was also ported in the plenum area by Brodix.. 800.00 brand new!!! This included the intake and all the work that was done by Brodix... They guys brother worked for brodix and was in pinch for cash....

Off the top of my head, it has a 547/567 lift 288 duration and a 110 or 112 seperation. It is a Crower and i have the matching solid lifters I am also using Crane Gold roller rockers 1.5-1.65 ratio this gives me a lift of .609 on the intake side... Myron